Looking For Slow(er) Curing Resin
CrateCruncher
04-29-2011, 10:26 AM
As the title suggests, I've managed to build molds and make some parts using supplies from local sources. I'm at an impass however. The only resin I've found here in Austin (Alumilite) starts to kick off in about 30 to 45 seconds. I barely have time to mix it before it starts reacting. Also, resin has a shelf life so I'd like to be able to buy it a quart at a time (If I bought a gallon 80% would go bad before I used it.)
I was reading Dag65's tutorial and in it he mentioned 7 minutes till kickoff! Thats luxury....
I was reading Dag65's tutorial and in it he mentioned 7 minutes till kickoff! Thats luxury....
ZoomZoomMX-5
04-29-2011, 10:35 AM
Alumilite (the resin they sell modelers in hobby shops) is garbage. Just because it's the only set that gets sold in LHS doesn't make it the best.
There are tons of alternatives; even by Alumilite...but you won't see the slower-curing resin at your Hobbytown or Hobby Lobby.
Try Smooth On...give the Engineer Guy website a look, or call them. Resin formulas are plentiful.
Smooth Cast 300/320 series are both excellent. You can get starter kits for about $26 plus shipping. Take some time to read about pot life; their 3 min. stuff is far superior to the Alumilite stuff that starts to kick in under a minute.
There are tons of alternatives; even by Alumilite...but you won't see the slower-curing resin at your Hobbytown or Hobby Lobby.
Try Smooth On...give the Engineer Guy website a look, or call them. Resin formulas are plentiful.
Smooth Cast 300/320 series are both excellent. You can get starter kits for about $26 plus shipping. Take some time to read about pot life; their 3 min. stuff is far superior to the Alumilite stuff that starts to kick in under a minute.
BVC500
04-29-2011, 11:36 AM
What about Micromark's product?
ZoomZoomMX-5
04-29-2011, 11:48 AM
What about Micromark's product?
IIRC it is rebranded/repackaged/made for them by Smooth On.
The main thing to look for are pot life above 3 minutes. 7 minute is great, but not for production...but for a hobbyist it might be the best, the slower the cure, the better chance is that bubbles are eliminated, whether pressure cast or not. The Alumilite resin sold widely rarely has a pot life of a minute. It is just too fast...and the shelf life of resin is short, which doesn't help.
IIRC it is rebranded/repackaged/made for them by Smooth On.
The main thing to look for are pot life above 3 minutes. 7 minute is great, but not for production...but for a hobbyist it might be the best, the slower the cure, the better chance is that bubbles are eliminated, whether pressure cast or not. The Alumilite resin sold widely rarely has a pot life of a minute. It is just too fast...and the shelf life of resin is short, which doesn't help.
p9o1r1sche
04-29-2011, 06:42 PM
I have had this issue and I put the part B in the refrigerator for a half hour before using.
bvia
04-30-2011, 02:13 AM
Try Smooth On...give the Engineer Guy website a look, or call them. Resin formulas are plentiful.
Agreed, Smooth On is a high quality product.
Agreed, Smooth On is a high quality product.
MidMazar
04-30-2011, 03:28 PM
I ran into this problem myself and got some of the micromark CR-600 (although its a 30-60min demold). I like it, its comparable to aluminite. The only complaint i have about it is it seems more rubbery than aluminte stuff. Also i prefer the yellow looking resin and the CR-600 when cured is white. Does the trick though.
Plumberboy
05-01-2011, 01:00 AM
http://www.smooth-on.com/specs_list.php?type=1
http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/TASK_8_-_TB.pdf
Go to the link above. I was using the 300 but I switched to the task 8. Once task 8 is cured it becomes pretty much chemical proof. You can take the mold with the part in it and put it through a series of tempering steps and it will take 263 degree temps. I don't do this though. When a cured task 8 body is dropped on a table it sounds more like a styrene part. The 300 sounds dead and does not take very hot water to make it get soft. I live in Arizona and I have solar hot water panels on my roof. I can get 150 degree water out of my faucets. This temp does not make the task 8 give any out of a mold once cured.
Look up Reynolds Advanced Materials in Hollywood CA and talk to Glen.
Here is some of my resin work: http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rs (http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rs)
Jump to page 2 and start reading the bottom entry. Also join our forum, it's free to see.
http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/TASK_8_-_TB.pdf
Go to the link above. I was using the 300 but I switched to the task 8. Once task 8 is cured it becomes pretty much chemical proof. You can take the mold with the part in it and put it through a series of tempering steps and it will take 263 degree temps. I don't do this though. When a cured task 8 body is dropped on a table it sounds more like a styrene part. The 300 sounds dead and does not take very hot water to make it get soft. I live in Arizona and I have solar hot water panels on my roof. I can get 150 degree water out of my faucets. This temp does not make the task 8 give any out of a mold once cured.
Look up Reynolds Advanced Materials in Hollywood CA and talk to Glen.
Here is some of my resin work: http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rs (http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rs)
Jump to page 2 and start reading the bottom entry. Also join our forum, it's free to see.
Ettore
05-05-2011, 02:11 PM
Go to The Engineer Guy website and talk to Nelson or Sarah. They both know resins and casing rubber. I use Smoothon Task 2. 7 minute potlife and 60 minute demold time. Bought it a year ago, it's still in good condition.
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