Front Wheel Hub/Bearing problems 3.8 TS
Meridivs
04-23-2011, 10:51 AM
We just found a '92 3.8 TS GT in relatively good shape (body, engine and transmission).
The most obvious problem are the front wheel bearings - both are noisy and one has also a little play in it.
The car has sat outside last winter without being used for 4 months so it's possible that some moisture and rust got in the front bearings this time.
My question is:
1. Can we drive the TS in this state some 300 miles to "base" for a professional/complete replacement of front wheel hubs?
2. What's the worst that could happen in case of a front wheel bearing failure?
Thank you for all your input!
The most obvious problem are the front wheel bearings - both are noisy and one has also a little play in it.
The car has sat outside last winter without being used for 4 months so it's possible that some moisture and rust got in the front bearings this time.
My question is:
1. Can we drive the TS in this state some 300 miles to "base" for a professional/complete replacement of front wheel hubs?
2. What's the worst that could happen in case of a front wheel bearing failure?
Thank you for all your input!
inafogg
04-23-2011, 01:03 PM
as they get worse they will get louder & vibrate but i think you will
be ok to drive 300 miles
good luck
be ok to drive 300 miles
good luck
LMP
04-23-2011, 06:46 PM
They whine a very long time before they become unroadable.
Changing the bearing assembly is rather straight forward. I changed mine seveval times..this is a routine maintenance on these models.... and just changed one on my son's Grand Prix last week.
I think I have posted a walkthrough a few years ago..... Leave wheel on ground and brakes applied to unlock shaft nut....a 1 5/16" (33mm is real tight) socket is mandatory...better with 3/4" drive...also need #55 torkx
.." It is really an easy job. Unlock nut, leave the nut in place, unscrewed just flush with the shaft end, and then use a hammer with another piece of metal or even wood in between to cushion the blow, or use the 34mm socket, no problem dislodging the shaft that way witout any harm..Once the shaft starts backing off, you will push it out in steps while at same time extracting the hub assembly."
Changing the bearing assembly is rather straight forward. I changed mine seveval times..this is a routine maintenance on these models.... and just changed one on my son's Grand Prix last week.
I think I have posted a walkthrough a few years ago..... Leave wheel on ground and brakes applied to unlock shaft nut....a 1 5/16" (33mm is real tight) socket is mandatory...better with 3/4" drive...also need #55 torkx
.." It is really an easy job. Unlock nut, leave the nut in place, unscrewed just flush with the shaft end, and then use a hammer with another piece of metal or even wood in between to cushion the blow, or use the 34mm socket, no problem dislodging the shaft that way witout any harm..Once the shaft starts backing off, you will push it out in steps while at same time extracting the hub assembly."
Meridivs
04-28-2011, 06:16 AM
We got home in one piece :)
Funny part is that the wheel bearings whine more at 40 miles per hour (70 km/h) than at 60 or 70 (100 km/h).
Next on the list - a pair of new wheel hubs.
Thank you all for your input and experience.
Funny part is that the wheel bearings whine more at 40 miles per hour (70 km/h) than at 60 or 70 (100 km/h).
Next on the list - a pair of new wheel hubs.
Thank you all for your input and experience.
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