arching from everywhere

99 s10 long story short, Had to change my wires and plugs, cap and button rotor. I am getting a random misfire. Changed my wires 2 times plugs 2 times and rotor and cap 2 times and also the coil. STILL RANDOM MISFIRE! Brand is autolite plugs, went back to OEM wires rotor and cap. When it got dark out I took a mist of water and I see blue from the side of the coil, and from the wires in random areas. Had my ICM tested that is fine, tested the mass flow that is fine. Also did a compression test all good. Why are the wires arching after checking spark gap and trying many sets of wires and random parts? Can the coil make the wires arch? Is it sending too much power through the wires?

NOTE: the second coil made it run good for a day or two, then bad again.:runaround:

99 s10 long story short, Had to change my wires and plugs, cap and button rotor. I am getting a random misfire. Changed my wires 2 times plugs 2 times and rotor and cap 2 times and also the coil. STILL RANDOM MISFIRE! Brand is autolite plugs, went back to OEM wires rotor and cap. When it got dark out I took a mist of water and I see blue from the side of the coil, and from the wires in random areas. Had my ICM tested that is fine, tested the mass flow that is fine. Also did a compression test all good. Why are the wires arching after checking spark gap and trying many sets of wires and random parts? Can the coil make the wires arch? Is it sending too much power through the wires?

NOTE: the second coil made it run good for a day or two, then bad again.:runaround:
Wow, There are 5 components to the secondary ignition system, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Wires, and Plugs. The P0300 code is Random misfire, is that what you are getting? It comes from one (or more) of the 5 components. My experience says it is usually the cap, but not always.

O.K. you said you went back to OEM. I assume that is BRAND NEW AC-Delco all the way around. Everything, Correct? Especially the CAP and Rotor or did you put the old ones back on? You did double check to make sure none of the wires got mixed up, and the firing order is good, right?

Your coil should not be arcing. It is bad, if it is new, you might take it back and get a new one.

Try putting a dab of di-electric grease ON EACH LUG on the INSIDE of the Distributor cap, and also on each wire on the outside of the cap.

Also, there are two other possibilities that come to my mind. Excessive distributor shaft play and possibly a loose timing chain. Before you spend another dime, check these two things.

Take the distributor cap and rotor off and see if you can wiggle the shaft, you should not have more than a few thousandths of side to side movement. I had one with a 1/2 inch of wiggle.

To check for a sloppy timing chain, put a socket on the big nut in the harmonic balancer and rotate the engine slowly by hand in the right direction with the distributor cap off and watch the Distributor rotor move. When you have all of the slop out, reverse the ratchet and rotate the engine by hand in the opposite direction SLOWLY. The amount you have moved the balancer in the opposite direction before the rotor starts to move tells you how much slop is in the timing chain. If it seems like you have moved the balancer quite a little bit before the rotor moves the opposite direction, the timing chain may be part of your problem.

99 s10 long story short, Had to change my wires and plugs, cap and button rotor. I am getting a random misfire. Changed my wires 2 times plugs 2 times and rotor and cap 2 times and also the coil. STILL RANDOM MISFIRE! Brand is autolite plugs, went back to OEM wires rotor and cap. When it got dark out I took a mist of water and I see blue from the side of the coil, and from the wires in random areas. Had my ICM tested that is fine, tested the mass flow that is fine. Also did a compression test all good. Why are the wires arching after checking spark gap and trying many sets of wires and random parts? Can the coil make the wires arch? Is it sending too much power through the wires?

NOTE: the second coil made it run good for a day or two, then bad again.:runaround:

Start with pitching the autolite plugs in trash can and replace with the Proper AC delco plugs the ac delco book calls for.

Many things can cause misfire.
Low fuel pressure or Maf sensor plugs or any secandary ign parts
AND or Camshaft retard setting off.
Camshaft retard of can cause over/high spark and burn out secandary ign parts.
Casmshaft retard can only be checked or set on a engine capable scanner OBD11 or code readers will not do that.
How many misfires per cylinder or can you feel engine miss and ramdom or miss on certain cylinders?
That info ALSO can be found in a engine CAPABLE SCANNER.

MT-2500 I don't hear or feel any miss at idle, If I am smashing the gas to the floor it seems fine also and takes off fast. but normal driving at mid range rpm's you hear and feel it bad. Sounds like a pack of fire crackers, the worst is going through a parking lot because i am at mid range rps and get alot of lookers

MT-2500 I don't hear or feel any miss at idle, If I am smashing the gas to the floor it seems fine also and takes off fast. but normal driving at mid range rpm's you hear and feel it bad. Sounds like a pack of fire crackers, the worst is going through a parking lot because i am at mid range rps and get alot of lookers

Pitch the autolites a get some ac plugs in there.
Try another coil know good coil and check/set the camshaft retard setting.
Let us know how it goes.

gonna go get the plugs in a a hour or so. Ill keep ya posted

gonna go get the plugs in a a hour or so. Ill keep ya posted

I would pick up another coil to.the one you replace should be under warranty.
Good Luck

Put new plugs and wires runs better"misfire less" But it still does misfire. I looked at the distributor and i can wiggle it about 1/4 inch so I am guessing that is bad. I am gonna go grab a new one and see what happens.

I looked at the distributor and i can wiggle it about 1/4 inch so I am guessing that is bad. I am gonna go grab a new one and see what happens.
Yes, 1/4 inch of side to side is way too much. Mine went out on a 2001 S10 Blazer and it had a 1/2 inch of slop. It actually snapped the pointer off of the rotor. If you pick up an aftermarket Distributor, like I did, don't use the new cap or rotor that comes with it, use your AC-Delco Cap and rotor.

ok problem, the marks came off my dis to see how to put the new one in. I did notice in the bottom of the distributor post it has a notch so it can only properly seat facing a few directions. I looked at a older thread where you can set it back to TDC and the cap should face 6 on the distributor. Mine is about a 1/4 inch past the 6 when I set it to TDC what do I do?? HERE IS THE THREAD http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1053532&highlight=s10+tdc

ok problem, the marks came off my dis to see how to put the new one in. I did notice in the bottom of the distributor post it has a notch so it can only properly seat facing a few directions. I looked at a older thread where you can set it back to TDC and the cap should face 6 on the distributor. Mine is about a 1/4 inch past the 6 when I set it to TDC what do I do?? HERE IS THE THREAD http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1053532&highlight=s10+tdc

Make sure you are on TDC and also compression stroke TDC.

If rotor is not pointing to the 6 when dist in you will have to lift dist and reset it so the rotor is at the 6 when all of the way down.

With a little practice installing and reinstalling you shold get it set.
In some cases withn a rebuilt or another replacement dist or when replaceing dist gear the dist gear may have to be turned 190 degrees to get it lined up good.
So if it does lines up real close but not on the money turn the gear 190 degrees.

If the 6 is worn off use the notch in picture where 6 was.

After you get it set and running you will need to check/set camshaft retard with a engine capable scanner.

it was not on the compression stroke, when I put it on the compression stroke it works perfect. So my main problem was that worm drive gear on the bottom of the rotor. The gears where worn and that allowed the cap under the distributor to move about 1/4 inch. After new rotor no movement and random misfire is gone.

After new rotor no movement and random misfire is gone.
:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi :bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi :bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi:bananasmi

Did you buy an OEM Distributor or aftermarket?

Start with pitching the autolite plugs in trash can and replace with the Proper AC delco plugs the ac delco book calls for.

Many things can cause misfire.
Low fuel pressure or Maf sensor plugs or any secandary ign parts
AND or Camshaft retard setting off.
Camshaft retard of can cause over/high spark and burn out secandary ign parts.
Casmshaft retard can only be checked or set on a engine capable scanner OBD11 or code readers will not do that.
How many misfires per cylinder or can you feel engine miss and ramdom or miss on certain cylinders?
That info ALSO can be found in a engine CAPABLE SCANNER.

That was my first thought when I heard Autolite plugs. It is getting to the point that if you don't use OEM parts there seems to be problems. I bought a top of the line NAPA serpentine belt for my Blazer & after a month the darn thing starts squealing. This is the second one that has done this to me. OEM BABY.

I got OEM parts from the NAPA by me. AC DELCO and Delphi.

I got OEM parts from the NAPA by me. AC DELCO and Delphi.
If you don't mind posting it, what did your parts cost you?

I got OEM parts from NAPA Plugs AC/DELCO $5.99 each cap about $45 Wires $55 and the Distrib $113 you can replace the worm gear and keep the old dist, but with 225k on it I just replaced it. so total $266 after tax. They will last the life of the truck.

I got OEM parts from NAPA Plugs AC/DELCO $5.99 each cap about $45 Wires $55 and the Distrib $113 you can replace the worm gear and keep the old dist, but with 225k on it I just replaced it. so total $266 after tax. They will last the life of the truck.
You did the right thing brother, new is better. I hope all is well now, and thanks for posting back with your results.

Update truck runs better now than it has in years. I drove 100 miles today and smooth ride the whole time.

I got OEM parts from NAPA Plugs AC/DELCO $5.99 each cap about $45 Wires $55 and the Distrib $113 you can replace the worm gear and keep the old dist, but with 225k on it I just replaced it. so total $266 after tax. They will last the life of the truck.

Was the $113 for the distributor new or reman? AZ wants $89 for a reman and over $200 for a new one.

re manufactured

Just Remember, If you go with a re-man, that is fine if that is all you can afford, Just BE DAMN SURE TO USE AN AC-DELCO DISTRIBTOR CAP AND ROTOR, OR YOU'LL BE SORRY.

Just Remember, If you go with a re-man, that is fine if that is all you can afford, Just BE DAMN SURE TO USE AN AC-DELCO DISTRIBTOR CAP AND ROTOR, OR YOU'LL BE SORRY.

What would a non-OEM cap do?

What would a non-OEM cap do?Read my sad tale of woes, specifically posts #1 and #4. It does have a happy ending.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=975186


In short, Aftermarket Distributor caps will not last in these vehicles, they short out internally, burn up, build up too much resistance, and in plain english, they simply will not hold up, and ultimately start throwing codes. This has been proven too many times not only in this Forum, but in just about every garage across the country.

Almost every Parts Counter Salesperson will swear that I am full of it, and THEIR golden goose caps will meet or exceed all OEM caps. BULL! Please don't buy into it. Learn from MY mistake. It won't cost you any more money to buy an AC Delco cap & rotor.