Wip - bmw z3

Hello,

ok, while I'm waiting for the new kit to arrive for my Honda S2000, I have moved on to the BMW Z3.

The body has been sanded and together with the underside washed in some All purpose Gel Cleaner :)

Noob Question Alert: Should I be attaching the Mirrors and Side Vents on to the body before I primer and spray? I thought that I need to do that because the parts will fuse better with the plastic rather than put them on later over the paint.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0063_2.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0064_2.jpg

Depends if you are going to paint the same color with the body or not. If you paint them body color then yes, better attach them at the beginning and then blend them in before the first color layer hits the body.

Yh :) Thats what I thought :) i have now edited the main post and posted some pics of the parts that I was talking about.

PM sent, hope it helps. :):)



gpz900ra7.

I would attach the side vents before painting and the mirrors - after. It's way too easy to knock the mirrors off when sanding/polishing the paint

Ok, quick update. I have attached the vents and the mirrors and leaving it to dry for an hour before it goes for a quick rinse and prime.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0067_2.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0068_2.jpg

Cool, this is a great little kit, you should have fun with it. I did one years ago (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=550558) and really enjoyed it.

I'm with Ales, I would have attached the mirrors afterwards. Reason being is that they will be very fragile while you are painting the body- so be careful with them! There isn't really a right or wrong answer for when to attach them- just that each offers its own advantage/disadvantage.

How are you planning to paint it? If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Well, I'm thinking of a metallic red or black with black interior on both. I haven't decided on the body color yet.

But I do have a question about primer. I have used the search feature but nothing specific to my question.

I have red conflicting statements about sanding primer. I thought that primer is intended to show up imperfections for you to be able to correct it. So if I am not supposed to sand in between priming layers, how am I supposed to correct the imperfections?

Sorry if it is a stupid question but noobs tend to ask them :P

Well, I'm thinking of a metallic red or black with black interior on both. I haven't decided on the body color yet.

But I do have a question about primer. I have used the search feature but nothing specific to my question.

I have red conflicting statements about sanding primer. I thought that primer is intended to show up imperfections for you to be able to correct it. So if I am not supposed to sand in between priming layers, how am I supposed to correct the imperfections?

Sorry if it is a stupid question but noobs tend to ask them :P

You should always sand the primer layers until they are very smooth, otherwise the texture of the primer will show through your paint layers.

Check these:

http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Primer/primer.htm
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1063216

Thanks for the links :) This helps me a lot!

Good to see some BMWs on here, hope it goes well for you

Ok, So Im in the process of priming and was wondering whether someone could give me guidance on how to get this piece of hair out of the body before I lay down some paint on it. I really hate the idea of having to sand it out but if that what needs to be done, then I will. If so, will I need to wash again before I lay down paint??

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/dust.jpg

Just sand it out with, for example, 1500 grit sandpaper. And yes, afterwards you probably should wash the body.

how about I ask a question for you to answer instead of just telling you what to do?
if you don't sand it, what would you do?

Just sand it out with, for example, 1500 grit sandpaper. And yes, afterwards you probably should wash the body.Thanks Ales, I will do so then..

Some progress pics. All primered and waiting for a good dry before I can lay down some colors.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0082.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0083.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0084.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0085.jpg

well, seeing as someone told you what to do anyway.

Generally, if there's anything not quite right with your primer layer, you sand it.
If there's something in it, you sand it out.
If it's a scratch, you will need to fill it with some surface primer. If you don't have a jar of that, you could just sprat some primer out onto a scrap bit of plastic and then use it with a toothpick.
Once you have fixed everything, that's when you sand it all again.
Usually, I sand this down a lot to prevent too much primer because I'd be applying a full coat over the body.
I sort of gave a description of what I do in my 928S4 wip where I primered, fixed, sanded then primered again.


Finally, be careful when leaving a washed body to dry. Depending on what the water is like where you live, you may be left with water marks. Some people use a microfibre to dry the surface to prevent this.

Quick Update. Some color on the body. I chose Tamiya's Gun Metal. There are 2 small spots with dust particles in them which I will wet sand out and respray the affected area.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0105.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0106.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0108.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0110.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0111.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0112.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0113.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0116.jpg

Ok, quick update. I have applied the badge decals now and will now go ahead and apply 2 coats of clear over it. Then I will start detailing the body and the underside.

While I wait for those to dry, I will continue with the smaller parts :) Comments and criticism are welcome.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0124.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0125.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0126.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0127.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0132.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0136.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0137.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0138.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0131.jpg

Now, just to give it a good polish before I detail.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0139.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0140.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0141.jpg

Sweet finish on the body. Like the colour. What type of clear did you use?

Thanks :) Tamiya TS clear

Quick update on the detailing:

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0142.jpg

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0143.jpg

Quick update. I know the interior doesnt have much detail but its purely because it is an all black interior :P

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0144.jpg

The underside is also now complete :)
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0146.jpg

Good job on the wip. :thumbsup:

thanks :)

Thanks guys :) Regarding the injection marks, The only one that will unfortunately be visible will be the one on the floor. I forgot about that one and I figured I would leave it seeing as thought this is my first model to completion. I was not going to do it all over again cause the would mean ripping out the seats cause they are glued :P

You could make two little carpets into the footwells out of velour paper or similar - this way you can cover the injection mark that will be otherwise quite visible on a convertible.

Thanks :) good idea. I will see what I can do...

Thanks :) good idea. I will see what I can do...

Hi Wolvy, when I built mine I looked on Google for images of Z3 floor mats, and then printed them off, then used them as templates to make the mats for inside the car.

Its a bit hard to see them in this picture but I used some grey velour material and placed them on the floor.

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/2408/dscf2811k.jpg


gpz900ra7.

Thanks GP :) I will do the same... :) Its gona make a nice addition to this build

Ok, I have not yet been able to do the wash on the underside of the chassis but I have been busy with floor mats and polishing the body.

I bought some contact velour paper for the mats and as you can see below, this was my attempt to make realistic floor mats :P For a noob, I think I did ok.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0152.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0153.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0154.jpg

I managed to make a stencil of the Z3 logo as is shown on the original floor mats of the car.
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0157.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0158.jpg

BIG problem here that I desperately need help with. I was trying to fix a hair that got caught under the clear paint and sanded a little too much through the clear and ... well,...I'm not to sure how deep I sanded whether it went through to the primer. So I'm hoping someone can give me a suggestion on how to fix this.
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0161.jpg

After some polish. No waxing has been done yet. Those spray nozzles will be painted black. The orangle peel that you see in this photo is actuall the silver heat shield that surrounds the bulb in the light.
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0162.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0166.jpg
https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0167.jpg

Wow !! That's shine !! :iceslolan
I love the floor mats too, easier than flocking :icon16:

The floor mats have worked out really well.

As for the paint issue, while you haven't actually rubbed through to the primer, you have rubbed through the clear and some of the paint. If I had to correct that I'd mask off the rest of the car along the trunk panel lines, repaint the affected area (making sure you don't get paint on the BMW badge) and re-clear the whole trunk.

Ok, big problems :( Sadly, the whole process of masking off and respraying, has gone and messed the whole body up. The trunk is now darker than the rest of the car and I fear that I am going to now have to strip down and redo.

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0181.jpg

Yh well :) I have learned hard lessons through this build but I am not giving up on this hobby just yet! ;)
I have now officially screwed the body up royally! I'm honestly just sitting here sighing :P and wanting to cry! hehe

I have decided to strip it down and start again cause this time after I applied the clear, a lot of the clear started to run cause I am a noob and a boob! :P
I am now going to try and obtain a new sheet of decals for this build!

Go easy on me. Its my first official build :P

This time, be careful what you strip in!! No brake fluid.

Isopropyl alcohol/medical spirits is the best, safest thing to strip Tamiya lacquers in. It will nicely clean the paint and primer off down to the plastic.

Thanks MPWR :)

Although, I'm quite embarressed that I am having to strip down another model :P But if you were sitting here looking at it like I was, you would strip it down too....lol

Tell me, when stripping it in isopropyl, do you just dip it in the isopropyl and leave it there for a couple of hours? or must you rub it off?

Best to dip it for a few hours in a sealed container. After the paint and clearcoat are gone, the last bits of residual primer sometimes need to be wiped out of corners and panel lines, but for the most part everything should simply soak off.

These kinds of sanding errors once they happen are virtually impossible to fix. When it happened, you maybe could have covered it with a scratchbuild luggage rack or the like- but repainting it to match surrounding paint (especially with a metallic paint) is almost guaranteed to frustrate.

Thanks :) When I receive the new decals, i wil do that :)

This time, be careful what you strip in!! No brake fluid.

Isopropyl alcohol/medical spirits is the best, safest thing to strip Tamiya lacquers in. It will nicely clean the paint and primer off down to the plastic.
Hi MPWR,

Well, I have now had the model in ISOPROPYL Alcohol for about 24Hours and it has not stripped down the paint. Of course it has definitely tried hard but rubbing it does not remove it easily. I would probably have to use some sort of abrasive sponge to remove it.

But peeling off it is not!

Any other ideas?

https://sites.google.com/site/myhobbylocation/home/bmw-z3/IMAG0190.jpg

Wolvy

What strength isopropyl are you using (and I hope that container has a lid)? The weaker concentrations (less than 70% or so) will often require some scrubbing with an old toothbrush or the like. Wear protective eye cover as you do it. Higher concentrations (91% or even 99%) usually don't take much scrubbing. Often the easiest way (but not necessarily the quickest way) is to soak the body for a while, scrub it gently for a bit, and then repeat- to let the alcohol work on the successive layers of paint/primer. If you're impatient, you can scrub vigorously with the toothbrush and occasionally dip the body as you go. This can clean the body relatively quickly (one session), but it can take some working at it.

Try some oven (or grill) cleaner, in Finland I use Fairy Power Spray, it's called another name in Britain (which of course I don't remember). They strip the paint fairly easy, and wont melt the plastic down. Just spray it on and leave it be for a week. Then scrub it with a soft brush under running water. Works every time for me. Another useful substance is drain (Home Plummer) opener, but You have to be careful with it since it will irritate skin when exposed (it's corroding also) so rubber gloves come in handy. Needs also a few days and some scrubbing with soft brush.

What strength isopropyl are you using (and I hope that container has a lid)?yes it has a lid ;) I'm aint stupid... lol If I wasn't a 30yr old guy, I would also worry ;)

I have 91% strength. So I thought it would do the job. I did exactly as you said. rub it gently off in succession. but no luck. its like it has stopped working :PTry some oven (or grill) cleaner, in Finland I use Fairy Power Spray, it's called another name in Britain (which of course I don't remember).I have Mr Muscle? Will that work?

Soooo....any ideas whether Mr Muscle will work?

awww.come on :( noone? so I'm on my own here?

If You mean the Mr Muscle home plummer, then yes it should work. But since every country has their own laws and regulations it may not be the same substance other side of the globe, so use it at Your own risk. Remember to use gloves (hurts like hell when it starts corroding Your skin). The Fairy Power Spray is kind of foamy (not aerosol can) substance when sprayed on surface (in liquid form in the bottle). Then there's DOT4 but that will melt the body if left too long...