Here are the pictures

Ok so im gonna try and post some pictures along with some questions i have hopefully this will help you guys help me! please let me know if you can see the pictures..
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/th_cap10.jpg (http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/?action=view&current=cap10.mp4)

this is a video of my door handle not working properly...I know seems simple...I just wanna know if it operates on a wire coil like the mirrors do...should i take the door panel off...http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap9.jpghttp://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap2.jpghttp://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap1.jpg
these pictures relate to my leaking trunk...ive ask this question before but need some more help...anybody had this problem...how did u fix it...Its hard for me to find the leak....but its a big one because the trunk floods not just dribbleshttp://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap5.jpg
Heres the oil leak...Im not convinced its the pcv valve...maybe its the valve covers but i dont see wet oil on the outter ridge

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap6.jpg

Wondering what that line coming off the front of the carb that isnt covered or plugged is...and what i should do about it...
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap7.jpg
What the hell is this thing...ahah i know it attatches to the pcv valve but do i need it plugged and can i or should i just get a breather for the pcv valve...other options?http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap3.jpg[/IMG[IMG]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll52/tohsiom2121/cap4.jpg
Should i get plug protecters...JCAT said something about them being too close to the headers...any sugestions...thanks for all the help guys...seriuosly really helps....lemme know

the picture show me you need to do some work spend some money..

the wires need protection. insulate the header pipes with a header wrap.the wires looked cooked to me you must measure the resistance to see if still good and the rubber is not damaged...they also have a high temp wrap for wires..these are used on my 96 impala.

the carb picture shows cracked vacuum lines replace all cracked and hardened vac lines ..make sure you get all the correct sizes..

this I see has what looks like a T fitting with a rubber cap cracked avoid using the rubber caps to block off the plastic fittings as they fail quickly..

the plastic valve assembly that you asked what is this for is you cannister purge valve..this fails quite often. when it does it sucks fuel out of the fuel tank and will flood the carb...make sure it is not wet with gasoline...[internal diaphram ruptures causes this.........]

forgot to mention.....the carb tubing , that needs a vacuum line is for the OEM air cleaner...this would go to the air temperature intake controller..this keeps the air going to the carb at about 105 deg f...when this is dissconnected you have a very large vacuum leak and the choke pulloff will not work......

this heated air allows the engine to run smoothly when it is below 50deg f air temp...I am quite sure this engine must use lots of fuel and has a bad hesitation....I would also expect this engine to start and quickly stall unless you floor it to keep it running..

Regarding your leak, get a trim removal tool and remove the trim around the back window and look for rust holes in the window channel area at the bottom of the back glass and under vinyl top. A very typical rust prone area for these cars. If it's leaking as bad as you say, just open the trunk, run some water down the back window and see if you can see where it is coming from. And yes, you will have to remove the door panel to replace your door handle, no cables, very easy to replace.

Your oil leak looks like it's coming from valve covers. Remove them and check that the flanges are flat with a straight edge. If they look good, maybe you over torqued the valve covers and damaged the gaskets. They don't need to be that tight.

Just plug the open vacuum port at the top of the carb, as said, it would go to your stock air cleaner that you are not using. There is a procedure in the factory service manual that tells you how to check the canister purge valve, don't recall it off hand. If yours is old, chances are it's bad.

And yes it would be nice to have wrapped headers, but I would say the majority of people with headers do not, myself included. Just invest in some wire looms to keep the wires away from the headers, it looks like you need them anyway.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/72174/10002/-1

Fixed the oil problem today...it was the bolts on top of the intake that go into the heads..they were loose and oil was seeping threw....havent touched the leaky trunk yet but...iim gonna pull that back trim off and check that...seems like could be the source...plugged all the vaccume lines today...and the purge caniste was fine all along i just didnt know what it was...thanks guys...but as to my motor running...she runs real nice and has since the day i bought her...12 miles to gallon but runs like a beauty...I still cant figure out why the car is missing or back firing but my dad is convinced that its not the wires or plugs and that it has to be something to do with the choke or the fuel air ratio...anything you guys can tell me about that possible idea...once again thanks you guys are awsome:naughty:

Fixed the oil problem today...it was the bolts on top of the intake that go into the heads..they were loose and oil was seeping threw....havent touched the leaky trunk yet but...iim gonna pull that back trim off and check that...seems like could be the source...plugged all the vaccume lines today...and the purge caniste was fine all along i just didnt know what it was...thanks guys...but as to my motor running...she runs real nice and has since the day i bought her...12 miles to gallon but runs like a beauty...I still cant figure out why the car is missing or back firing but my dad is convinced that its not the wires or plugs and that it has to be something to do with the choke or the fuel air ratio...anything you guys can tell me about that possible idea...once again thanks you guys are awsome:naughty:

Take the valve covers off, both of them, start the engine and look for a rocker arm or more that does not seem to be moving so much. This will indicate a worn cam lobe. A worn lobe can certainly lead to the popping and sputtering through the carb. It starts off lightly but progresses to the point where you carry a towel in the car, just so you can pop the hood, remove the air filter lid and put out the fire in the carb, so you can start it back up and drive on during rush hour.

Yes, I have experience with that, in my younger days.

hahaha thats pretty funny...yea my mechanic told me like a year ago that i needed i new camshaft because one cyllinder was not fully pressured or whatever...man that sucks if thats what it is...so a roller rocker not moving will indicate the cam lobes worn out?

I don't know about roller rocker, but yeah a rocker arm not moving much will definitely present a cam lobe failure. Note: You can put your finger onto the tip of each rocker, while the engine idles, to feel how much lift is being imparted to each valve. This is a more reliable detector than just watching with your eyes. 2nd note, if this engine has good oil distribution to the rocker arms, it will get messy.

A cam swap will bring that thing new life if indeed, a lobe is worn. Just remember the cardinal rules involving flat tappet cam replacement:

#1. Always use new lifters with a new cam, unless you like replacing cams as the new cam won't last several hundred miles on old lifters. Likewise, don't use new lifters on an old cam, same reason. New valvesprings won't hurt, either.

#2. ONLY use lifters from COMP, or AC/Delco. Don't use any other lifter. See #1 above.

#3. Break in cam properly, by running the engine at 2,000+ RPM for 20-30 minutes once installed. If you have a problem with reassembly, or valve adjustment, shut the engine off. Don't idle it. Once maintenance is performed, restart engine to 2000+ RPM for duration of break-in.

#4. Change oil after break-in!

#5. Run racing oil or Rotella-T diesel oil ONLY. Other oils, including synthetics, do not have sufficient zinc phosphate levels to support the flat tappet cam - only these. Alternatively, standard oil such as Castrol, with a zinc phosphate (ZDDP) additive may be used. The ZDDP forms a sacrificial layer on the cam lobe, which prevents metal to metal contact. Insufficient levels of ZDDP will cause cam failure, usually within the first several thousand miles.

today i went outside started the car and smoke started belowing from underneathe the hood...i was going crazy....then i realized i sprayed degreaser the night before and some got onto the headers...anyway thanks for the heads up...im gonna pull the valve covers off this week and check the rocker arms...and maybe will have to throw a cam in it...any sugestions for cams...also would it be wourth it to just throw a rebuilt 350 in it instead of the 305...like what kind of time are we talking for the cam install apposed to an engine swap...