Untraceable Current Draw on 96 i30

I have had my i30 since the end of the summer and it has 236k+ miles on it. About a month ago my battery died, so i jumped it and it ran a few days, then the battery died again. I took it to a shop and they told me they couldnt find anything and it has to be the battery. Needless to say I went through two batteries and it was still happening, so I took it to another shop and lo and behold, they found a draw. The only problem is that they can't locate it. They pulled all of the fuses, checked the alternator, the voltage regulator etc. The mechanic said he was only able to check a few of the solenoids but nothing was wrong with them. Basically where I am at now is that I know there is a draw coming from somewhere, but I, and two shops, can't locate it. Anybody have any ideas? It just randomly started happening and I know it could possibly be a short somewhere, but everything seems to be working fine when the car is running. I am lost. ANd the engine is pristine I want to get this bad boy over 300k.

I have had my i30 since the end of the summer and it has 236k+ miles on it. About a month ago my battery died, so i jumped it and it ran a few days, then the battery died again. I took it to a shop and they told me they couldnt find anything and it has to be the battery. Needless to say I went through two batteries and it was still happening, so I took it to another shop and lo and behold, they found a draw. The only problem is that they can't locate it. They pulled all of the fuses, checked the alternator, the voltage regulator etc. The mechanic said he was only able to check a few of the solenoids but nothing was wrong with them. Basically where I am at now is that I know there is a draw coming from somewhere, but I, and two shops, can't locate it. Anybody have any ideas? It just randomly started happening and I know it could possibly be a short somewhere, but everything seems to be working fine when the car is running. I am lost. ANd the engine is pristine I want to get this bad boy over 300k.

The voltage reg is IN the alt. This can be intermittently drawing 1-2 Amps current. Also from the normal wear, the accumulating copper soot can play myriad tricks: always after 60k there is this stuff in the alt. 1A draw means that after 48 hours, 48Amps is gone from your batt = NOstart. Clean/Replace or repair. Normal total draw is below 0.05A - this can be measure at batt, after disconnecting cable: measur using Amps scale between batt.pole-cable.terminator.
.See my CDomain site for this issue... ('all' nissan alternators contain same features.). Btw, You can do this troubleshoot - fusepulling all by yourself; no need to go to a shop. Just a 10$ gauge.

Whatever extra electronics there is - they can intermittently draw current if connected direcly (not via ign ctrl) to the batt.
The courtesy dimmer can play intermittently foul. I changed all lamps into leds; trunk, doors, inside.
Bigger battery. Now there is 95Ah batt, problems gone...

However, if/when the problem is ON, pulling fuses and connectors, measuring - it is easy to locate the current drawing component. If your shop cannot do this, go to another...

They pulled every fuse and there was still the draw. They tested all those regulators and it wasn't coming from there, and everything was off and unpulled. I will check the copper soot by the alternator but everything minus a few of the solenoids was tested and it couldn't be pinpointed. You just told me to do everythign that has already been done. That's why I'm lost.

They pulled every fuse and there was still the draw. They tested all those regulators and it wasn't coming from there, and everything was off and unpulled. I will check the copper soot by the alternator but everything minus a few of the solenoids was tested and it couldn't be pinpointed. You just told me to do everythign that has already been done. That's why I'm lost.

Pulling fuses isnt enough ... as it doesnt affect cabling, connectors BEFORE fuses. Finding a current draw - if the problem is always ON - is pretty straightforward basic but laborious work... following every wire/connector starting from the batt +cable: install amps gauge, then pull first, then pull next connector out ... and verify reading again. What could be more simple ?

Alas, there is about 1000connectors, smbdy has to WORK. Circuit diagram is a bonus; but dont be tricked by Haynes comic book :)

Knowing the draw - how many Amps - gives an idea what kind of propeller is behind it. If the shop cant even figure out that, I guess its hi time to seek another shop.

Dont let em rob u: the notorius Volvo blink troubleshooting which lasted 8 hours at stealership - was caused by hazard sw stuck in the mid position. If u have similar instant experts on this job, dont be surpri$ed.

Any other helpful things to try? maybe explained a bit more clearly? that confused the crap out of me haha. sorry, no offense, i appreciate the help, but I still can't figure it out.

Any other helpful things to try? maybe explained a bit more clearly? that confused the crap out of me haha. sorry, no offense, i appreciate the help, but I still can't figure it out.

Lol. Cant be offended. Take care...

A. Buy multimeter. 10$ or more

B. Open Hood.

C. First, ALL appliances out=OFF, lights, courtesy lights, doors closed.... Disconnect one batt cable, there are two, choose only one...

D. Oops. Learn how to measure Amps scale, to turn dial, and push probes into right places

E. Connect one probe into battery, the second probe into the disconnected connector. Which way, doesnt matter in this measurement.

F. If succesful, you will have current flowing THROUGH your meter: a reading showing the current flow, Amps. (now your nephew turns ign key, multimeter releases fukushima gases, return to A. Next try, nephew inthehouse)

G. If the current flow reading is more than 0.05A - there is a problem.

H. If there is a problem: Start troubleshooting: pull off/ reinstall fuse after fuse, fusible link after fusible link (some are under hood), cable connector afte cable connecor. Every time check the gauge.

I. If gauge reading does not change, you have NOT found a problematic circuit. Reinstall any issues opened/disconnected, return to ->G. If Gauge reading dropped = Proceed...

K. If gauge reading drops - there is your circuit with sm problem ...

U see, no mystique here. Up to this point, Plain worrrrrrrk - now starts the fun phase, finding the culprit in THIS circuit.

like i said...all thats been done by multiple ppl including myself and i cant find it. i pulled the neg cable off overnight w. charged battery and was still dead in the morning...hmmmm...?

like i said...all thats been done by multiple ppl including myself and i cant find it.

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i pulled the neg cable off overnight w. charged battery and was still dead in the morning...hmmmm...?

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And none of these multiple ppl cant get ONE - JUST ONE - reading of the leak current?

--> Wrong & too many ppl, change shop.

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Totally separate issue:

When battery is dead, replace. All std batteries die in most cases when they become fully drained regardless when purchased.

A battery - or charger - is dead when charging wont materialize. Charge DC Voltage has to be over 13.8V...

Yes, I have taken it to three shops. Just like youve told me. I have gone through 3 different batteries, just like you said. ALl of the shops and myself have found a draw in the multimeter, but when pulling wires and fuses, we can not find where it is. No matter what i pull, the draw is still there...no matter how many times i check it and how many things i pull, the draw is still there. Obviously theyre wrong if they cant find something because my battery keeps dying so something has to be eating my battery, unfortunately no matter who has tried, and i have even had the technician for my college look at it, he can not find where its at.
I got the battery started and back up to 12.24 volts, and within a minute it was down to 12.1.
I understand the BASIC tests, as ive said a million times ive done the basic tests over and over...the problem is that according to myself and everyoen else who has looked, the basic test hasnt pinpointed the problem. no matter what i pull

Im lovin the help and im doing everythign u tell me to, but at this point i know it goes deeper than that.

Im lovin the help and im doing everythign u tell me to, but at this point i know it goes deeper than that.

IF - a current-measuremet has been made - THEN there is a result - in Amps.

WHAT is IT?

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I got the battery started and back up to 12.24 volts, and within a minute it was down to 12.1.

Based on that, my guess your current draw is 4.15A. Correct?

Now pls dont answer before u give THE reading.

First, healthy full battery is above 12.7 Volts. A battery with 12.24 Volts is already semi dead, maybe only 1/3 of a full batt. Maybe alt is dead? What is charge voltage when engine is running?
Next, this kind of voltage drop (note: healthy battery) means smtg somewhere is heating. Possibly a jammed motor with jammed relay. Be it ABS-pump or whatever... This heat can be felt with hand (when alternator draws current its not hot, but warmer than surroundings) ... or can be measured from distance with a laser temp gauge (50$).

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Have u disconnected all wires going to starter? (No, u havent...) ... the accumulated soot inside the starter solenoid has shorted and works as a heater?

I charged it fully then brought it to an electronic shop(free estimate bc i didn't have the time) and guess what, my batery stayed fully charged for 4 days. then i drive it back to school, and its dead the next morning. It's intermittent. and he couldnt test/find anything bc there was nothing to test. the only draw he was getting was the paristic draw.

"and its dead the next morning."
- WHAT is dead? Gimme noo blondie feelins pls - but just accurate measurements - and descriptions.
"he was getting was the paristic draw."
- THIS IS BALOONEY: gimme the Amps-reading.
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.WAITING...WAITING...WAITING...WAITING...WAITING.. .WAITING...............1. Charge Voltage when idling?

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Stop posting until readings given.

dead is zero volts in the battery, and im just posting info as i get it chill out.
its not baloney bc its an intermittent problem. obviously no draw when the battery holds charge for a week, hence no new numbers bc it hasnt did it until tonight again. jesus christ man dont get mad bc my cars doin funky shit im just telling u guys things as it happens so ppl have all the info.

:p Nahk, I absolutely LOVE your posts! AND your patience. I would have given up on this thread a LONG time before you got to this point! And the nephew starts car step, lmfao every time I think of it! OK, so, if nothing is drawing on the battery at "off" (as per the guys that supposedly tested all connections) then how is the battery getting discharged? Temporal ionic destabilized local atmosphere caused by bad flux capacitor, THAT's how! :naughty: sheesh!

:p Nahk, I absolutely LOVE your posts! AND your patience. I would have given up on this thread a LONG time before you got to this point! And the nephew starts car step, lmfao every time I think of it! OK, so, if nothing is drawing on the battery at "off" (as per the guys that supposedly tested all connections) then how is the battery getting discharged? Temporal ionic destabilized local atmosphere caused by bad flux capacitor, THAT's how! :naughty: sheesh!

I'd love to have a nephew ... maybe my parents were not patient enough cause havent got one? Sad but true.

Battery can dry by itself, intermittently. Had one 15yrs ago... that one died in the afternoon. However, that 'virus' wont jump into the new replacement.

But if charge voltage cant be measured and found out in any shop, its possibly wrong city for your salary. And if voltage is incomprehensible, possibly wrong discussion forum?

Hope nobody will be incensed, but cant help. Be happy and buy new?

I had a draw and it turned out to be the alarm sensor for the hood. I just tie wrapped down and that solved my issue