Tape!

So I used Tamiya tape today on a little weekend project I was trying to get through in just a couple days. I used it to mask off the windows and the rub strips on a Revell Impala police car. In the time it took me to mask everything off, all the tape had come up where I had cut it, and pieces were falling off everywhere! I tried to smooth everything down and then paint it, but overspray everywhere, bleed under everywhere else, and whole pieces were coming up so much that there was a big black spot on the roof! I said, well, I'll be patient and just clean it up with sand paper but after a half hour of cutting the bleed under... I was so fed up that I just tore the car in half and threw it out. So much for getting something done this weekend!

What tape do you use? Does Tamiya tape have a short shelf life, the two rolls I used are probably 2-3 years old. I am so frustrated! I haven't built anything in a long time and I was going to knock out something fun to get back into it, but instead I just want to sell off the lot!

I am still using Tamiya masking tape that I bought >6 years ago. So I think shelf life is not a concern. I always clean my hands, paint surface and knife before cutting/applying masking tape, making sure there is no grease or what so ever. Once I have the desired surface covered with multi-piece of tapes, I apply white glue all over the tape to seal all the joins and to prevent unfolding of the tape at corners. This process also allows me to double check the masked surface for missing gaps. Don't worry, white glue does not complicate unmasking.

I have to agree with Helico regarding TAMIYA tape, as I am using tape off 3or more years ago, and it works fine.

Again the tip about using white glue to seal the edges is a really good idea, and also using HUMBROL Maskol works, but any sort of PVA based glue should do the trick as well.

Hope that the incident with the shell hasn't put you off building and you continue.



gpz900ra7.

I do as you do, clean hands, clean model, everything save using the white glue. I even seal the tape with clear. I've done this countless times, I've done it before.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/willimo/EKmockup2.jpg

That one came out perfectly. After that one, I did a white SiR (same trim as this one) and had some significant bleed under that I could clean up. Then I did this police car... awful! I don't know what happened. The tape seemed to be getting worse every time I tried it...

I am a super noob when it comes to this but I also have experienced what the OP has experienced here. I'm just wondering, could it not have something to do with the consistency of the paint being applied? If it is too thin then maybe the chances are that this is why it is more likely to bleed? I am only wondering this to myself. Expert opinions welcome :)

Do you brush paint or spray or airbrush? I will assume you don't use a paint brush.

I don't know if it can be because of the consistency of the paint, but the application makes a big difference. In the past when I've done this - when I do window rubbers on any any car - I will mask it (and hopefully the damn tape will stay put, I think I'll be using BMF from now on) and then apply the paint with very thin coats. Ideally, you can spray a sealing coat of the clearcoat down before you spray the black, and you can use an airbrush for this application. The airbrush makes it much much easier to control the thickness, and heaviness of the paint application. I will frequently use spray cans for every step except this one, because it is so helpful in this situation.

Switch to 3M Fineline. No bleed through anymore. Then use Tamiya from the Fineline outward.

Do you brush paint or spray or airbrush? I will assume you don't use a paint brush.

I don't know if it can be because of the consistency of the paint, but the application makes a big difference. In the past when I've done this - when I do window rubbers on any any car - I will mask it (and hopefully the damn tape will stay put, I think I'll be using BMF from now on) and then apply the paint with very thin coats. Ideally, you can spray a sealing coat of the clearcoat down before you spray the black, and you can use an airbrush for this application. The airbrush makes it much much easier to control the thickness, and heaviness of the paint application. I will frequently use spray cans for every step except this one, because it is so helpful in this situation.

I've never had any problems with older Tamiya Tape but I still use BMF for masking window trim/rubbers always... I use the tape for multi color bodies and to cover bigger areas and/or less visible areas.

just go to the auto parts store and buy the fineline tape they use to mask real cars. works great!

I really like Tamiya tape, especially the narrow stuff. I've never had a problem with adhesion - or lack of it.

For larger areas, I use Scotch 3M "Painter's Tape For Delicate Surfaces #2080." I get it at my local hardware store. But compared to Tamiya, it's pretty sticky, so be careful to remove it by pulling it back, not up (vertically) from the surface.

I've never had any problems with older Tamiya Tape but I still use BMF for masking window trim/rubbers always... I use the tape for multi color bodies and to cover bigger areas and/or less visible areas.

I'm going to have to start doing this. It's expensive, but I just don't think I'm good enough to get the tape to work well in the small areas around the windows by just using tape. Then I can use my Tamiya tape to cover everything else.

I used 3m before I could find Tamiya tape, and I would lay it onto some clean glass before using it on a model, that would help make it less sticky.

Thanks, guys!

I used 3m before I could find Tamiya tape, and I would lay it onto some clean glass before using it on a model, that would help make it less sticky.

You probably won't need to do that if you can find the 3M "Delicate Surfaces" tape.