94' bravada died today

As posted in the title. my 94' bravada died today. I spent about 2 hours diagnosing the symptoms. I am getting fire from coil to dist., but no fire at my plugs. I have yet to check the fuel pressure, but I will be doing that in a few mins. I checked all the fuses, they were all good. I can hear the fuel pump kick on, hell, I can always hear the fuel pump running. Anyone with a bravada knows what I mean about them being so loud. And I can smell gas under the hood. I recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator, few months back, but it never caused the car to not run, just ran badly. I pulled of the dist., and checked the button and stuff, everything looked good, so I'm thinking, ignition module. Any tips or other things to check would be much appreciated. thanks again.

The ignition module can be tested at your local autoparts place. Have them test it 4 or 5 times in a row for more accurate results.

You'll have to pull it off the distributor. Make sure you have dielectric grease for reinstallation if it tests good. New ones come with the goop.

I've had cap and rotor look good all day long-- pull out my used test cap and it starts right up! If spark into rotor and no spark out-- pretty much nails it down.....

I've had ignition coils fire plugs at atmospheric pressure but not fire under compression.
A bad coil can work good cold until they get warm then quit firing the plugs.

Here's where to check the fuel pressure.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p288/Clunk_/Image033.jpg

I'll have the module tested. I did put another one on it. Still nothing. Another thing. I checked the fuel pressure, and there is nothing coming out. Nothing at all. I used a small screw driver to push down the center of the thingy, to see if gas would come out, and then I tried a tire pressure thing, still nothing, I tried with the switch off, then switch on, and nothing. So, I thought maybe I'd try to change the fuel filter, since I can hear the pump running, So I take the filter off, and while it's off I turned the switch on to make sure it was pumping, and it looked like a water hose, so I'm definetly getting gas to filter, So I put a new fuel filter on it, checked the pressure again and still nothing. I'm not sure if I've got 2 problems or what. maybe the place where you check the fuel pressure is bad or something. I'm headed to autoparts store right now to have my module checked out, but since I put a new one on it, thats prob not it. Could my dist. be bad??

It's either no spark or no fuel---so what happens if you give it a gulp of carb cleaner down its snorkel...does it fire for a moment? If so, forget spark, you have it-- your issue is fuel related, if not, then spark is of concern.

It's possible the fuel was actually being siphoned from the tank since the tank is a higher level than the fuel filter.
brcidd's carburetor spray into the open throttle plate/the intake idea will determine the next step is. Take the rubber snout from the intake inlet to get to the throttle plate.

Ok, the module is good, still no spark, def no spark. So it's gotta be my dist. Is it possible that the coil could be bad, even though it's sparking? can I use a ohmeter to test the coil for volts or ohms or something? and if so what should it read? I'm gonna go get a dist 2morrow, and check it out, once I'm sure I'm getting fire, I'll deal with the fuel problem if there is one. Oh and as to the idea about the fuel being syphoned.... the fuel pump on my bravada is like the loudest fuel pump ever. I don't think there has ever been a fuel pump any louder, so i know it running.

I've read of a hose inside the fuel module, inside the fuel tank, coming loose and not delivering fuel to the engine, with the fuel pump running just the same.

I got a new dist. today, with a new module. Still no fire. I'm getting spark from my coil, but not from dist. Is it possible that the coil is firing, but just not giving enough juice? Can i have it tested? I don't know what else to check for. I've checked all 6 plugs. any ideas

alright, it's got fire, new cap, and rotor button fixed that, I'm getting gas, and I'm getting fire, still won't start. any other ideas? I' guess i'm gonna take off the plentium and make sure the injectors are shooting gas next.

Does anyone know where I can check and make sure the timing chain is not broke? I tried look ing down the oil fill spout, no die, and some other holes on the valve cover, but I just can't find a place to see the valves. It does seem to be turning a lil faster than normal.

Does your distributor rotor turn with cap off? If so, your cam is turning and your timing chain is fine.

yes my dist, is turning, I thought it ran off my crank??

Go back to post #6, spray carb cleaner in intake, does truck try to run? Have you ever measured fuel pressure yet?

We have a fuel pump at the race shop...runs like a top but pumps no fuel, the vanes are wore out...not even touching the pump housing.

I sprayed starting fluid down the spout, nothing happened. However, I do have it attempting to run now. As I turn it over, it starts, and dies right after, I had it running last night for about 3 mins, but everytime I would press the gas, it would almost die. But most of the time, it won't even start, just tries to start. Like it will run for 4 secs, and shut right back off. I have checked the fuel pressure, I'm around 45 PSI.

Chris, do you know who Cornbread Red is?

, I have checked the fuel pressure, I'm around 45 PSI.

Has does 45psi make you feel? Your spec is 55-61psi....if you have the "W" engine - which I believe you do...45psi makes me think you put the wrong fuel pressure regulator in awhile back- that is a spec for a different engine. Can your fuel pump push 60 psi? Test by pinching off return hose briefly and see if pressure will rise.

What is your leak down rate? Fast, slow? If fast, you have a massive leak either in gas tank or under engine plenum where you can't see it.

Otherwise, you obviously need a fuel pump....just sad that it took so long to get to this point...

I called the dealer yesterday, and they told me my spec was 47-50. I've not checked my leak down. It's just hard to believe that my dist cap and rotor button went out same time as my fuel problem began. :banghead:

As to the fuel pressure.... should I have constant fuel pressure like when the switch is off? Cause the only time I have gas squirting fuel pressure is when I have the key turned on, and I can hear the fuel pump running. But when the switch is turned off, like a few secs. later there is nothing.

I called the dealer yesterday, and they told me my spec was 47-50. I've not checked my leak down. It's just hard to believe that my dist cap and rotor button went out same time as my fuel problem began. :banghead:

I'd beg to differ- I looked it up as 55-60psi- never heard of a 47-50 spec...

What is the 8th digit of your VIN? I'd bet a "W"

What is your leak down rate? attach FP guage and turn key on- it should hold max pressure for 3-5 m inutes, only dropping maybe 10-15 psi over that time. What does yours do? if fast drop, you have a leak...

Chris, do you know who Cornbread Red is?

There was a great pool player named Billy "Cornbread Red" Burge from Kentucky.

Back in my rattlesnake days, I read a story in a sleazy scooter rag called Easyrider back in the 70's. The story title was Cornbread Red, kind of a sad story about an old panhead and it's 3 owners....that name kinda stuck in my head.

The CPI Bravada's need 55-60psi fuel pressure.