How can I fix this?

Ok guys so here's this supra ive been working on. The body is painted with tamiya deep metallic blue and clear coated with dupont 2k clear. After polishing i put the body back the box because didnt have time to finish it at the moment. I stacked other kits on top of it and over time it cracked one of the pillars of the body. So I'm thinking one way to tackle this would be, to first stabilize the back of this windscreen pillar, then sand the cracks smooth and repaint with the body color, and then use tamiya lacquer as touch up clear.

My concern however(since they are two different types of clears) is that once this is all said and done, should I be able to polish the lacquer clear and 2k clear convincingly together? Or will there be lines where you see tamiya clear and 2k clear?

I'm afraid adding more 2k may make it too thick. The rest of the body looks great and I don't want to have to scrap the body, here are some photos. All suggestions welcome.

http://i53.tinypic.com/296hfew.jpg

http://i51.tinypic.com/mheghu.jpg

Strip it in isopropyl alcohol and start again would be my advice. If you start painting over it again it will be too thick..

Damn... I really don't want to have to do that. Any other ideas?

If you are lucky, you might be able to get a close match. I had to do the same to some of my models in the past, and the repaired area turned out
almost unnoticeable..."almost."

Fill the cracks, and do the usual body prep like sanding and priming. Mask the unaffected area, then apply the base coat. Pay close attention to the
area where new and old colors meet. Blur the neighboring area by leaving a slight gap between the surface and the masking tape. The idea is to
prevent a sudden transition of colors from new to old by creating a gradation from the top of the pillar to the side of the roof.

When you clear coat, widen the blurry area by increasing the gap between the surface and the masking tape (or simply re-attach the
masking tape), so the 2K clear area will be partially covered with the new lacquer clear. But I've heard that lacquer will affect urethane, so you must
apply the lacquer clear in several mist coats.

Once done, you should be able to blend the new clear layer with the old one by using very a fine polishing cloth (like 4000 grit and up) and a fine compound.

If this doesn't work, you'll probably have to give up and strip the paint.

Below is a repaired paint job on my MP-4/13 model, so you can get the basic idea.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/misc/mp4131.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/misc/mp4132.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/hirofkd/misc/mp4133.jpg

I've heard 2K clear is nearly impossible to strip.

You just have to work slowly and carefully to fix the damage; the advice above by Hiro is the best. You can do a hard line mask at the base of the A pillar, and when you re-clear you should probably mask to the indented line on the left side of the roof...as for the clear blend, not sure if there's any hard line to mask to in the C pillar area. They make blending agents for 2K clear that will allow a chemical blend like lacquer so that you avoid having a halo line at the outer edge of the blend.

A long time ago, I saw a "how to" in Scale auto on repairing broken a-pillars. The method involved using another unbroken kit, making a mold around the a-pillar using auto-supply red silicone and making a duplicate out of superglue or epoxy, then cut the broken part out of the model, and replacing it with the new part.

Once you get the repair done, go with a 2 tone paint job, so you don't have to worry about matching paint, and just re-clear the whole car...lighter on the parts that are already done, heavier on the parts that are repainted.

I've heard 2K clear is nearly impossible to strip.

I stripped my Tyrrell the other day in isopropyl alcohol. It was painted with Zero basecoat paints and Zero 2K clear. The 2K just lifted away in sheets very easily after a soak of around 30 mins...