Wheel Bearing Grease

2001 Silverado - suspect a bad LF wheel bearing, I pulled the rotor off today and pulled out the wheel speed sensor, grease on the tip is rusty/orange. I spun the wheel with a tool just brushing the bearing and it pulled rusty/orange again... the 2nd time it pulled rusty/orange but had a fine smear of blue through it. Can anyone tell me on a 2001 Silverado 1500 4wd... was the original grease color blue? I'm assuming the rusty orange means bearing is shot! It does have 140,000 miles on originals! Thanks

2001 Silverado - suspect a bad LF wheel bearing, I pulled the rotor off today and pulled out the wheel speed sensor, grease on the tip is rusty/orange. I spun the wheel with a tool just brushing the bearing and it pulled rusty/orange again... the 2nd time it pulled rusty/orange but had a fine smear of blue through it. Can anyone tell me on a 2001 Silverado 1500 4wd... was the original grease color blue? I'm assuming the rusty orange means bearing is shot! It does have 140,000 miles on originals! Thanks

could be axle grease they used for front wheel drive c/v joint's

2001 Silverado - suspect a bad LF wheel bearing, I pulled the rotor off today and pulled out the wheel speed sensor, grease on the tip is rusty/orange. I spun the wheel with a tool just brushing the bearing and it pulled rusty/orange again... the 2nd time it pulled rusty/orange but had a fine smear of blue through it. Can anyone tell me on a 2001 Silverado 1500 4wd... was the original grease color blue? I'm assuming the rusty orange means bearing is shot! It does have 140,000 miles on originals! Thanks



these hub bearings do fail at a good rate. many in my rust belt area have replaced these both at least once some 2X...


YES the hub bearing grease is blue ..when red this is the rust. with the A frame supported so that the CV joints are straight rotate this hub and the bearing should reveal its being damaged...


I had this occur to my passengerside hub...most like you it is the driverside that goes first...

I got a cheap hub bearing from 1A AUTO for around 80.OO so far its working fine...comes with a speed sensor...

since my hub was just making some noises and the ABS did not act up I pumped grease into the sensor hole as I was rotating the hub ...I did this until it was blowing out the seals slightly..then put it all back together and shoped around for a hub...then after a couple of months and I had the time I installed the new hub...I was surprised that the hub did not get any worse..the grease I ramed in the hub stoped further damage !

these hub bearings do fail at a good rate. many in my rust belt area have replaced these both at least once some 2X...


YES the hub bearing grease is blue ..when red this is the rust. with the A frame supported so that the CV joints are straight rotate this hub and the bearing should reveal its being damaged...


I had this occur to my passengerside hub...most like you it is the driverside that goes first...

I got a cheap hub bearing from 1A AUTO for around 80.OO so far its working fine...comes with a speed sensor...

since my hub was just making some noises and the ABS did not act up I pumped grease into the sensor hole as I was rotating the hub ...I did this until it was blowing out the seals slightly..then put it all back together and shoped around for a hub...then after a couple of months and I had the time I installed the new hub...I was surprised that the hub did not get any worse..the grease I ramed in the hub stoped further damage !

I wrote this after pulling the LF and finding the rusty grease. (I'm putting on new brakes/rotors) so I went back out and once I disassembled the right side, I pulled that sensor and it had pretty blue grease on it. I am going to replace the LF this week, I think it has the wheel slightly kicked out at the top and I don't want the heat from the bad bearing or a pad drag from the angle to eff up my new rotors. Did you have any trouble breaking those 3 bolts loose on the hub? One looks easy, one looks like it may cause issues, however the third is barely reachable. It's going to take an open end wrench and I have a feeling they will be seized tight like my caliper bracket bolts were last year, I had to grind the heads off.

I wrote this after pulling the LF and finding the rusty grease. (I'm putting on new brakes/rotors) so I went back out and once I disassembled the right side, I pulled that sensor and it had pretty blue grease on it. I am going to replace the LF this week, I think it has the wheel slightly kicked out at the top and I don't want the heat from the bad bearing or a pad drag from the angle to eff up my new rotors. Did you have any trouble breaking those 3 bolts loose on the hub? One looks easy, one looks like it may cause issues, however the third is barely reachable. It's going to take an open end wrench and I have a feeling they will be seized tight like my caliper bracket bolts were last year, I had to grind the heads off.


with the lower control arm supported so that the CV angle is straight the top bolt is accessible with standard tools...thats the easy part... removal of these hub assemblies are tough..need a chissel to start the separation at the heat shield. then some 5Lb hammer beating on the hub for removal...get good rust buster/ penitrating oil..spray down this area a day before working it.

you tube has some good video showing all this...

my hub slid off the axle easy.. torque the nut to 157FT lbs I believe that is the amount..check on that. loosen the big nut before you do anything.. then jack up off the ground.......when torquing the nut to spec torque have the wheel on the ground so it will not rotate ..after a quick test run recheck this torque..improper torque is usually why a new hub fails......

with the lower control arm supported so that the CV angle is straight the top bolt is accessible with standard tools...thats the easy part... removal of these hub assemblies are tough..need a chissel to start the separation at the heat shield. then some 5Lb hammer beating on the hub for removal...get good rust buster/ penitrating oil..spray down this area a day before working it.

you tube has some good video showing all this...

my hub slid off the axle easy.. torque the nut to 157FT lbs I believe that is the amount..check on that. loosen the big nut before you do anything.. then jack up off the ground.......when torquing the nut to spec torque have the wheel on the ground so it will not rotate ..after a quick test run recheck this torque..improper torque is usually why a new hub fails......

I'm so tempted to do it myself, but I live an hour north of Philly, truck is 10 years old and has dealt with 10 salty road winters. I am so afraid those bolts won't break loose and I'll either end up stripping one or getting stuck mid-project with nowhere to go. I don't have the correct heat source to even begin to heat them. My thought is to buy a good hub from Napa or something, take it to a small garage I know does good work & play the "hey I bought this and don't have time to put it on, can I give you the part and you install it just for labor" Save a couple $$

I'm so tempted to do it myself, but I live an hour north of Philly, truck is 10 years old and has dealt with 10 salty road winters. I am so afraid those bolts won't break loose and I'll either end up stripping one or getting stuck mid-project with nowhere to go. I don't have the correct heat source to even begin to heat them. My thought is to buy a good hub from Napa or something, take it to a small garage I know does good work & play the "hey I bought this and don't have time to put it on, can I give you the part and you install it just for labor" Save a couple $$



If you have this work done it will cost you with parts about 500-600 dollars... so if you can go to work and make in your pocket 400 cash have this done by someone ..

I did not use any heat ..the bolts came out with no problem...

the hub however was stuck / rusted in the housing and this is where it was tough go..also you will need a big socket and torque wrench for the axle nut..

If you have this work done it will cost you with parts about 500-600 dollars... so if you can go to work and make in your pocket 400 cash have this done by someone ..

I did not use any heat ..the bolts came out with no problem...

the hub however was stuck / rusted in the housing and this is where it was tough go..also you will need a big socket and torque wrench for the axle nut..

This works.. I got a Napa Premium Hub for just about $200... I went to a guy down the street from work who I know does good work, told him I bought the hub with the intention to do it myself and don't have the time, would he be willing to take my part and do it. He said one time exception since he knows me... figure on 1 to 1.5 hours labor @ $60 an hour. Can't beat without doing it yourself that right??

This works.. I got a Napa Premium Hub for just about $200... I went to a guy down the street from work who I know does good work, told him I bought the hub with the intention to do it myself and don't have the time, would he be willing to take my part and do it. He said one time exception since he knows me... figure on 1 to 1.5 hours labor @ $60 an hour. Can't beat without doing it yourself that right??

you are lucky to find someone to do this for that amount...most likely 2 hrs 120.oo is a good deal..

Napa bearing has a warrantee ?

you are lucky to find someone to do this for that amount...most likely 2 hrs 120.oo is a good deal..

Napa bearing has a warrantee ?

36 months or 45,000 miles.

napa normally sells quality made parts.