2000 GP vibration under acceleration - right turns

2000 GP 152K miles - when I'm on a cloverleaf or equivalent long curving right turn I get a vibration through the left side only when I'm under accelleration. I've had both left side wheel bearings replaced and have had a local garage take a look under the front end and they claim everything seems tight. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

2000 GP 152K miles - when I'm on a cloverleaf or equivalent long curving right turn I get a vibration through the left side only when I'm under accelleration. I've had both left side wheel bearings replaced and have had a local garage take a look under the front end and they claim everything seems tight. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

could be a c/v joint since your saying when you turn the car so i would have c/v joint taken a look at. and check moter mount's and tranny mount.

Agreed, CV could be the issue.

I'm having a similar issue but it has nothing to do with turns. The weird thing is that it will only do it while accelerating between 35 and 45 MPH. If I'm above or below that speed it doesn't do it. It got really bad so I replaced my control arms, bushings, ball joints, rack and pinion, TRE's, motor mount and got an alignment (I didn't replace those things JUST because of this shaking problem - they needed to be replaced on their own merits...or lack thereof). That improved the problem but didn't cure it. If I'm coasting at any speed it drives as smooth as butter, it's just once the gas pedal is pressed it starts shaking if within that MPH I mentioned above.
Do you think my problem is the CV shafts as well? I have no clicking or anything on turns and turning seems to have no affect whatsoever. Could it be anything else?

I'm having a similar issue but it has nothing to do with turns. The weird thing is that it will only do it while accelerating between 35 and 45 MPH. If I'm above or below that speed it doesn't do it. It got really bad so I replaced my control arms, bushings, ball joints, rack and pinion, TRE's, motor mount and got an alignment (I didn't replace those things JUST because of this shaking problem - they needed to be replaced on their own merits...or lack thereof). That improved the problem but didn't cure it. If I'm coasting at any speed it drives as smooth as butter, it's just once the gas pedal is pressed it starts shaking if within that MPH I mentioned above.
Do you think my problem is the CV shafts as well? I have no clicking or anything on turns and turning seems to have no affect whatsoever. Could it be anything else?

only other things bearing or a bad tire or tires.

Yeah. Maybe rotate your tires and see what happens.

take a look at the struts/springs maybe cracked
is the vibration coming from front,back,or hole L.side

I'm religious with tire rotates and I just took off my snow tires and put on my summer tires - no change.

I'm betting it's the axle. There is no play on the wheel bearing and these shocks are only a year or so old. When I changed my control arms, I had to put a new clamp on the cv axle and noticed it wasn't very full of grease so I'm betting that's it.

sometimes if you get under there and get a good grip on the cv axle you can get it to move more than it should. shake it up and down and in and out. if there is abnormal movement then replace it. at 152k it is time to replace anyways.

I had a similar problem with my 99 GP on right turns. I don't know if I would describe the occurance as a vibration but rather a loss of power that caused the car to stumble until I pulled out of the turn.

Turned out to be a faulty valve in the transmission. (Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly)

...thought your vibration might be kind of like my studder.

GL

sometimes if you get under there and get a good grip on the cv axle you can get it to move more than it should. shake it up and down and in and out. if there is abnormal movement then replace it. at 152k it is time to replace anyways.

Define "more than it should."

I knew my driver side axle was bad because when the inner boot popped off, the joint was totally dry. I replaced the driver cv axle, but I'm still having the same annoying shaking occur between 35-45 MPH when the gas pedal is pressed. I'm at 161K miles and the passenger side is still the factory axle. Unlike the driver side was, the passenger is completely free of any leaks or cracks in the boot.
I guess what I can do since the driver side is brand new is try to wiggle that axle and then just compare it to how the passenger moves. This shaking is REALLY getting on my nerves and my entire suspension and steering systems are virtually brand new.

Define "more than it should."

I knew my driver side axle was bad because when the inner boot popped off, the joint was totally dry. I replaced the driver cv axle, but I'm still having the same annoying shaking occur between 35-45 MPH when the gas pedal is pressed. I'm at 161K miles and the passenger side is still the factory axle. Unlike the driver side was, the passenger is completely free of any leaks or cracks in the boot.
I guess what I can do since the driver side is brand new is try to wiggle that axle and then just compare it to how the passenger moves. This shaking is REALLY getting on my nerves and my entire suspension and steering systems are virtually brand new.

it is really hard to gauge but if you grip it and move it up and down it will have a small amount of movement. if it moves more than a small amount then youmay have an issue. at 161k it would'nt be a bad idea to replace it. usually a repair shop will do a free estimate, at least around me, not sure in Utah though.

Ok. Well I'll be chaning the oil here soon so while I'm under there I'll compare the two shafts and hopefully the passenger one is bad (and fixes this shaking problem). Otherwise I have no clue what this could be.

Well last night I changed the oil and tried shaking that passenger axle and it seemed rock solid. What's weird is that a month or so ago I did the same thing and felt a tiny bit of play. Could it have healed? lol
I'm totally stumped on this one. Should I just replace the passenger axle for kicks and see what happens? I hate throwing money at this car w/o knowing what's wrong.

Well last night I changed the oil and tried shaking that passenger axle and it seemed rock solid. What's weird is that a month or so ago I did the same thing and felt a tiny bit of play. Could it have healed? lol
I'm totally stumped on this one. Should I just replace the passenger axle for kicks and see what happens? I hate throwing money at this car w/o knowing what's wrong.

i think thats the only other thing to do if it's not bearing and all the other parts you put in it. if it was me i'd go for half/shaft (axle).

I went ahead and ordered the passenger drive shaft so hopefully that does the trick. :(

Well, for anyone interested the passenger axle was the problem. Got the new one in last night and no more shaking! It wasn't too bad a job, but WAY more tranny fluid leaked out than I thought would.
When I took the old axle out there was hardly any play in the joints, but there was some. I guess it only takes a tiny bit to cause a big problem. So hopefully if anyone else runs into the same problem this gives them a head start! :)

Play is not necessarily ever going to be the issue. The CV joint is essentuially a bearing. If there is wear then it will cause noises when rough surfaces roll against each other.

Glad you got it fixed.

Yeah me too.

Question for you guys. What is the best tool to use to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle? A fork was what I ended up using when the ball joint separator I bought wouldn't fit. The fork worked fine, but it's really rough on the joint boot and every other tool I've seen wouldn't work because you can't get on top of the ball joint pin like you can on the tie rods. Is there a special tool that we can use?

All you need is a BFH and a few good swings.

I absolutely refuse to use a pickle fork. They do more damage than good.

All you have to do is smack the steering knuckle area around the ball joint a few good times and it should pop free.

All you need is a BFH and a few good swings.

I absolutely refuse to use a pickle fork. They do more damage than good.

All you have to do is smack the steering knuckle area around the ball joint a few good times and it should pop free.



I agree a 4-5 lb sledge and a good whack and it will break loose. only time a fork is alright is when I am not re-using the part, I use the air hammer fork adapter for that.

Thanks 00GTP4ME. Took your advice on changing axle and fixed mine as well.