1994 Lesabre w/ smoking compressor

Just got home from a short trip to the store and had to post immediately for input. It was raining and put the defrost on and noticed a really harsh burning smell. When I was lucky enough to make it home, I turned off the car and popped the hood to find smoke coming from the area of the A/C Compressor. I may not be an expert, and it had been driving great until this. Since I turned it on, I assume the compressor may be shot, and/or seized up. Is my assumption correct, or is there something else I can check??? :confused:

You probably have a seized compressor (worst case scenario) or at the least, a worn out pulley bearing. In either case- it should be fixed asap. The pulleys can get red hot and actually melt through a serpentine belt- I watched this happen once. As it stands, if there is no noise when a/c is off (defrost is off too) then you can buy yourself some time. If this is the case, I would unplug the cycling switch on the accumulator to assure the compressor does not come on until it is fixed. If compressor is not seized, then the clutch and pulley can be replaced separately.

You probably have a seized compressor (worst case scenario) or at the least, a worn out pulley bearing. In either case- it should be fixed asap. The pulleys can get red hot and actually melt through a serpentine belt- I watched this happen once. As it stands, if there is no noise when a/c is off (defrost is off too) then you can buy yourself some time. If this is the case, I would unplug the cycling switch on the accumulator to assure the compressor does not come on until it is fixed. If compressor is not seized, then the clutch and pulley can be replaced separately.
Ok. My question now is: Is there a way to just remove the a/c clutch bearing without having to evacuate the system and/or remove the compressor itself?? I assume that this could be more of the issue than the compressor, and would be a cheaper alternative as well, only because I use the a/c every now and then, and it blows fine. Has for a long time. Would also probably be so much easier to either go in through the wheel well or from underneath as opposed to the top down to minimize the amount of parts having to be removed, eh?

Ok. My question now is: Is there a way to just remove the a/c clutch bearing without having to evacuate the system and/or remove the compressor itself?? I assume that this could be more of the issue than the compressor, and would be a cheaper alternative as well, only because I use the a/c every now and then, and it blows fine. Has for a long time. Would also probably be so much easier to either go in through the wheel well or from underneath as opposed to the top down to minimize the amount of parts having to be removed, eh?

Though it is easier to do it on a shop bench, but the ac clutch bearing is removable without discharging the AC system with the use of a special puller tool.

You probably have a seized compressor (worst case scenario) or at the least, a worn out pulley bearing. In either case- it should be fixed asap. The pulleys can get red hot and actually melt through a serpentine belt- I watched this happen once. As it stands, if there is no noise when a/c is off (defrost is off too) then you can buy yourself some time. If this is the case, I would unplug the cycling switch on the accumulator to assure the compressor does not come on until it is fixed. If compressor is not seized, then the clutch and pulley can be replaced separately.
Just doing more research online, I found something at Autozone called a Compressor Bypass Pulley so the vehicle can be operable until this is resolved. Not sure how or where it would install, though, but could this be an option for me also??

If it were mine, I'd take belt off, take out lower splash shield behind front right wheel- turn wheel completely to right- jack up vehicle- and get in there and look at pulley- if it spins freely- then I'd drive it as is with a/c unplugged.

If it is scrapping, has plenty of resistance, then I'd opt for a used pulley from a boneyard, or a new one from a parts house. Yes the bypass pulley would work, but you have to remove the compressor to install it.

As mentioned above, with borrowed tools from Autozone, you can do the job yourself-- I do about 4 or 5 a week in the a/c season...

yes there is a bypass pully for the carfrom dorman look on rock auto i have one on my 92 buick but if you intend to repair it it is best done emeditly to prevent any dirt or moister getting in the system its best to go from the bottem and wheel opening remove the splash sheild

If it were mine, I'd take belt off, take out lower splash shield behind front right wheel- turn wheel completely to right- jack up vehicle- and get in there and look at pulley- if it spins freely- then I'd drive it as is with a/c unplugged.

If it is scrapping, has plenty of resistance, then I'd opt for a used pulley from a boneyard, or a new one from a parts house. Yes the bypass pulley would work, but you have to remove the compressor to install it.

As mentioned above, with borrowed tools from Autozone, you can do the job yourself-- I do about 4 or 5 a week in the a/c season...

Was talking with someone today and told him what was going on and that I was going to change out my compressor. He told me that I should also change out the evaporator and the accumulator. I was thinking of changing out the evaporator anyway, although it would be great if you tell me where it was. Is it the same thing as an orifice tube?? Do you think that it would be necessary for me to change out my accumulator??? Parts store also sells something called Clean and Flush in a can that I was also thinking of purchasing. Any last thoughts before half my cooling system litters my garage floor tomorrow??

The accumulator (silver can) is what is normally changed with a compressor R/R. The evaporator is far more difficult to change- and is not needed to change. Avoid the flush- you don't want to put anything in your a/c system that you can't get out! Put back in the same amount of oil that you remove-- the trick is to determine how much that is. Usually 2-3 fl ozs for accumulator, and 1-2 fl oz for compressor.

You'll need to pull a good vacuum prior to re-charging- Oh and you should reclaim the refrigerant in your system prior to disassembly-

The accumulator (silver can) is what is normally changed with a compressor R/R. The evaporator is far more difficult to change- and is not needed to change. Avoid the flush- you don't want to put anything in your a/c system that you can't get out! Put back in the same amount of oil that you remove-- the trick is to determine how much that is. Usually 2-3 fl ozs for accumulator, and 1-2 fl oz for compressor.

You'll need to pull a good vacuum prior to re-charging- Oh and you should reclaim the refrigerant in your system prior to disassembly-
I was happy to go to the parts shop because the guy there knew alot more than I did. He mentioned something eye opening that I would have never known if I didn't go today. He said that I had an older compressor and a/c system that ran off of R-12, I think it was, and the newer systems are the R-134's that you see everywhere. I would need to purchase a pressure switch that attaches to the new accumulator and a conversion kit for the high and low side lines. This is alot cheaper than tearing out everything in my system and just buying all brand new stuff, believe me. Just wanted to run it by you one last time. This way, once I install everything, then I will take it to the shop for them to pressurize the system(since I don't have a vacuum pump), then I will get it home and hit it with some cans of refrigrerant. Thanks for the time. Helps newbies like me become more confident in what they are doing in never before attempted areas of automotive.....

Your parts guy is full of it!! If your car is a 1994 as you say it is, then it is already 134a refrigerant OEM from the factory! 1994 was GM's first year for 134a C/H bodies-- I was there and lived it...

You can confirm by looking at underhood labels, strating 134a refrigerant- and that the access lines have 134a ports.

No need to change switches etc.

Agreed... All 94 3800 Powered GM Vehicles used 134a.... If you look on the passenger strut tower you should see a Label that pertains to the AC system oil fill and charge... R134a charge should be in the 2.0 - 2.2 Lb area for this system... I would replace the Accumulator/Drier, the Orifice Tube Filter and have the Condenser and Evaporator flushed, Then use Pag 150 oil and fill per the factory service manual.. Should leave you with some decently cold AC if done right..

Your parts guy is full of it!! If your car is a 1994 as you say it is, then it is already 134a refrigerant OEM from the factory! 1994 was GM's first year for 134a C/H bodies-- I was there and lived it...

You can confirm by looking at underhood labels, strating 134a refrigerant- and that the access lines have 134a ports.

No need to change switches etc.
Well, finished flushing and installing parts yesterday and was able to make it to the shop for vacuuming and filling of refrigerant. No leaks detected, car running fine, and air blowing cold. Thanks for all your help and looks like from this experience, I will not only need to brush up on my a/c system skills, but stock up on some supplies when I have the money. Thanks again and hope to bump into you when I have any more questions on the forums.:smokin: