Evap Code

Hey All

I have been driving the Bravada around since I have put the engine back in and got her running again and put about 200 miles on her and got an evap code. It is the P0440 code. I noticed that it is only getting about 13 miles a gallon. Today I smelled gas inside. I got out and opened the hood and noticed that where the fuel lines went into the top of the fuel injector assembly was wet. When I turned the key to accessories the gas started shooting out the assembly from the first line. I pushed it down and the flow stopped but the line is still loose. The line has a clip that holds the two fuel lines down and inside the fuel injector housing and it is tight but the line that was leaking gas still has slack between the clip and the line. So here are a few questions I have for the experts:

1). Would this line being loose cause my evap code?

2). Is the slack in the line normal? If not, how can I fix this so the line doesn't slip out again?

Thanks for your help everybody!!!

No. The fuel supply system works independently from the evaporation emissions system. If there is a fuel leak it will not set an evaporate code.

A P0400 indicates an EGR problem?

Are you sure the metal retainer is facing the correct way?

No. The fuel supply system works independently from the evaporation emissions system. If there is a fuel leak it will not set an evaporate code.

A P0400 indicates an EGR problem?

Are you sure the metal retainer is facing the correct way?

I will have to check the retainer. I am pretty sure it is on right but worth checking anyway.

I also posted the worng code. The code I got was P0440

I will let you know what I find out tomorrow!!! Thanks!

Hey Airjer, could the fuel tank lose enough vacuum to set the code if the leaker was the fuel return line?

Where the fuel lines go into the injector housing, there are 3 "O" rings and a spacer on each line. They must be replaced whenever the lines are removed to prevent leaks. This kit includes them, but they are probably available separately at the GM dealer:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Fuel-Injector-O-Ring-Kit-Dorman---OE-Solutions_17191247-P_674_R%7CGRPFUELAMS_535980687___

Here is a pic of the bracket. I don't know if it is upsdie down or not. If I fliped it to where the tabs on the bracket are down, will this be enough to keep the lines in place.

I replaced the o ring gaskets in the fuel injector housing when I rebuilt the engine. The o rings were down in the hosuing and that is where I put the new ones. Should I have put the o rings on the end of the fuel rail before I put them down inside the housing? Also, I only noticed that the housing had one one o ring for each rail? Did I need to put three on them Old Master? Im lost here becuase my manual was blank when it came to putting this back together.

The image in your post is a little fuzzy but it looks like you have it correct.

In the image below: Parts 4 & 8 are stainless steel washers. Parts 3,5,7 & 9 are O rings. Parts 2 & 6 are spacers that keep the O rings & washers in place. Insert all of these parts in the injector housing making sure they are completely seated in the bores. Lightly oil the fuel pressure and return lines and gently slide the lines into the injector housing until they are fully seated, then install the stainless steel line retainer and nuts. The AC Delco part number for the kit is #217-451 and comes with parts 2 through 11.



http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/CSFIinjector.gif

Well there is my problem!! Thanks for the pic I needed that to see where I went wrong. :runaround: I bought this with a thrown bearing. When I took it apart to rebuild the engine the only thing I had was the two o ring washers so that is how I put it back together. Mine didn't have any of the steel washers or the spacers. can you tell me where to order these at Old Master? Could this also have been what set the evap code and only get 13 miles a gallon?

Thanks so much!! You have been a big help!!

Okay, stupid me. I just saw your link in your previous post. Will pick the kit up tomorrow

The leak will definitely cause poor fuel mileage, it will not cause the P0440 however, it might be the reason it spun a bearing. Raw fuel dumped into the crankcase will dilute engine oil very quickly. Engine oil contaminated with fuel doesn't lubricate too well ;)

The link in post #5 has all of the parts you need... and then some!

The leak will definitely cause poor fuel mileage, it will not cause the P0440 however, it might be the reason it spun a bearing. Raw fuel dumped into the crankcase will dilute engine oil very quickly. Engine oil contaminated with fuel doesn't lubricate too well ;)

The link in post #5 has all of the parts you need... and then some!

I bet that is what caused the spun bearing then. When I picked the short block up the machine shop asked how many miles I had on the Bravada. I told them it was around 140,000 and he told me that the engine had less than that. He said he didn't know what caused the bearing to spin but the engine didn't have many miles on it. Im not shooting fule right now case I have them pushed down and wedged in. Is it okay to drive till I get the parts tomorrow?

Knowing what you've found, and what you've told us, absolutely NOT.

Fuel leak, sparks, uh lets think about that... NOPE, not safe to drive. Not to mention risking a new engine. Call a friend, or a taxi, don't even think about starting it until it's repaired.

Knowing what you've found, and what you've told us, absolutely NOT.

Fuel leak, sparks, uh lets think about that... NOPE, not safe to drive. Not to mention risking a new engine. Call a friend, or a taxi, don't even think about starting it until it's repaired.

Well I figured that but thought I would ask anyway. If the gas is in my oil will it smell like gas? I better check it out

You can check it very easily, not real scientific, but it will give you somewhat of an idea if the oil is contaminated with fuel. Knowing the history, I'd change the oil & filter to be sure, it's cheap insurance. Hold your hand out, palm up, pull the dipstick out and let a few drops of oil run into your palm. If the oil stays in a "puddle", chances are it's ok. If it runs out the lines in your palm, it's got fuel in it. Little bit of "old school" technology ;)

Anytime you get an " Evap " code , the first thing you should do is to make sure your gas cap is tight . This is what causes most " Evap " codes - certainly not all but the majority .

Anytime you get an " Evap " code , the first thing you should do is to make sure your gas cap is tight . This is what causes most " Evap " codes - certainly not all but the majority .

Yeah that is the first thing I did. I went as far as to even replace the gas cap with a new locking one but it didn't fix my evap code problem. :disappoin

On the up note I had to order the fuel rail spacers and O rings but they should be here Friday.

Work on one problem at a time. Make sure the fuel leak is repaired. Then clear the DTC's and perform a drive cycle http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html to make sure no other DTC's pop up. Then select "I/M Readiness" on a scan tool, it will show the status of each monitor. Make sure all monitors have completed their tests. If/when the P0440 comes back, we can deal with diagnosing and repairing it.

Well I put in the new O rings and washers and retainers in the fuel rail and re-set my check engine light. Crossing my fingers this will fix my problem. Will drive it around for a few days and let you know if the evap code comes back on. I did find out by accident that I did have the reatainer on backwards. I had the opening for the lagre line on the small side and the one for the small on the large side. At least I think I did. It kept leaking and when I turned the retainer around it stopped. :dunno:

Now my power sterring pump is going bad. The bearing is making a growling when I am turning left. It is a continous growl as long as I am turning left. Really loud :headshake

The fuel line leak has nothing to do with the EVAP DTC. Let us know what happens and we can help you diagnose the EVAP system.

The fuel line leak has nothing to do with the EVAP DTC. Let us know what happens and we can help you diagnose the EVAP system.

Let me ask you this. I always go to Autozone or Advance when my light comes on because I don't have a scanner. Can I rent one if/when my light comes back on that will give me a live reading of what sensor(s) may be causing this or is it hit and miss?

If it warms up in the next day or two I plan on getting underneath and see if I can trace the vac line on the gas tank and see what it looks like.

When I replace my Power Sterring pump I plan on doing the ball joints because they are popping. Any on-line parts stores you suggest for high quaility parts?

The fuel line leak has nothing to do with the EVAP DTC. Let us know what happens and we can help you diagnose the EVAP system.

Oh, by the way, thanks again for the diagram and instructions! They were excellent help!

When they retrieve the DTC's, if their scan tool will access "Freeze Frame" data, that MIGHT help locate the problem. P0440, (EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction) is one of the more difficult DTC's to diagnose. The diagnostic flow chart in the GM shop manual is 4 pages long! If it sets the DTC again, which it probably will, let me know and I can scan and email the flow chart to you.

When they retrieve the DTC's, if their scan tool will access "Freeze Frame" data, that MIGHT help locate the problem. P0440, (EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction) is one of the more difficult DTC's to diagnose. The diagnostic flow chart in the GM shop manual is 4 pages long! If it sets the DTC again, which it probably will, let me know and I can scan and email the flow chart to you.

That would be a tremendous help Old Master. All I have is the Hayes and it is very limited.

I forgot to add that when I was fixing the fuel line issue that I noticed a canister that is on my hood that has nothing going to it but when I felt on the back it did have some places for some type of tubeing. Is this the charcoal canaster? If it is it has been by-passed.

Thanks!!!

John

The "ball" under the hood is a vacuum reservoir for HVAC & 4WD. Should have a vacuum line connected to it. There might be a vacuum diagram on a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment.

The "ball" under the hood is a vacuum reservoir for HVAC & 4WD. Should have a vacuum line connected to it. There might be a vacuum diagram on a sticker somewhere in the engine compartment.

I will have to take a look for the sticker.

I took it for a ride on the interstate for the first time since I had rebuilt the engine and man, it wasn't pretty. The road noise was so loud I couldn't hear my GPS. It has a real bad loud humming that I am assuming is the wheel hubs. Now my gas milage on the interstate was like 13 mpg and it felt lilke I was pushing against it the whole time like it was holding back. It isn't the engine that was holding back it felt like my wheels were. Now if my hubs are bad will this cause this as well as the bad mpg?

Could be a bearing/hub or it could be brakes dragging. Jack it up and put the trans in neutral, wheels should all spin freely.

When they retrieve the DTC's, if their scan tool will access "Freeze Frame" data, that MIGHT help locate the problem. P0440, (EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction) is one of the more difficult DTC's to diagnose. The diagnostic flow chart in the GM shop manual is 4 pages long! If it sets the DTC again, which it probably will, let me know and I can scan and email the flow chart to you.

Hey Old Master, the light kick on again like you said it would. But I did notice this time that when I got out there is a gas smell under the Bravada right under the drivers door. I smelled around the engine carpartment and back around the gas tank filler tube and didn't notice any smells. So if you could send me the flow chart I would appreciate it.

Oh, by the way, the sticker for the vac. line for the ball attached on the hood is gone. Do you have a diagram for that also?

I did find out I had a bad front hub. Also found out while I was under the truck that the steering components are shot. They are all worn and loose so I ordered me some new ones as well as new ball joints. Figured if I was going to be that deep into it might as well replace everything.

I crawled under the Bravada today on the drivers side and found two hoses. One had a broken piece of plastic tubing in it and the other had a clamp. Both hoses were hanging and the one smelled of gas. I didn't see any electrical harness or connectors to plug anything into so I put the two tubes together and reset the evap code. Is there suppose to be any valves or sensors here?

Along the left frame rail are 3 lines: The 3/8" line is fuel pressure to the injectors. The 5/16" line is fuel return back to the fuel tank. The 1/4" line is fuel vapor from the canister purge vent valve, (near the fuel tank) to the EVAP purge solenoid, (near the ignition coil). If that line leaks, it will most definitely cause EVAP DTC's!