Decals are killing me!

Actually I know how to use a decal, for some flat surface, I can put a decal perfectly right.

For some more complicated surface for example auto body, I can still get it. Use a softener or warm wet towel and the decal can be very easy to deal with. Of course, sometimes for a very trick surface I still have to struggle, for example the McLaren MP4-25 Lewis Hamilton version from Revell, the Vodafone decal on both sides of the body, it is nightmare.

The most annoying part is here: the size decal is slightly larger than the surface, so the edge of the decal will certainly stick out. But it is too small to bending, even with softener or warm towel, nor using a knife to cut if off. When it is dried, this edge can be easily peeled off which can cause the entire decal lifted off the surface!

That's why I skipped most of the CF pattern on a decal. :banghead: I know there are quite a lot CF fans here so any comment is appreciated. Thanks!

By the way, should I always put a clear coating on the decal to protect it? I really worry about the decal since it is very fragile. Several times, a masking tape lifted the decal by accident!:runaround:


Cheers,

Leon

I personally like clearcoating my decals. Clearcoating can provide protection against masking tape, provide, in my opinion, an overall better if somewhat inaccurate finish to the model, and can help prevent yellowing of the decals.

However, cleatcoating can damage the decal if it is not done correctly. Find a highly recommended clear coat from members of this forum. I use a 2-part system meant for 1-1 cars, but many other forum members will recommend clear coats design for our hobby.

What kind of tape are you using? There are many types of masking tape that will not lift decals. I use Bare-Metal foil, a chrome foil meant for trim work on older cars, Tamiya masking tape of various widths, and Scotch #2080 which is a blue low-tack tape meant for delicate surfaces. This tape has a very sharp edge but is only as sticky as a post-it note.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply. I use the Tamiya masking tape, but I think I should not let the tape touch decal anyway.

Could you provide some advice on the CF decal experience? After cutting the CF decal sheets, how to make sure the decal is on the right position and more importantly, how to deal with the edge?

Try using decal setting solutions and hair dryer to "weld" them on to the paint surface. Works very well for me.

Clearcoating should seal the edge and keep it down. You can strengthen the edge to help keep from lifting by applying a little of the decal glue to it. Also decal setting solutions, as mentioned above, are a great help.

Try using decal setting solutions and hair dryer to "weld" them on to the paint surface. Works very well for me.

This. The air from the hair dryer pushes the decal edge down while the solution sets it.

ive had very good results so far with realy tricky decals by just placeing them on with water, then soaking a q-tip in microsol and working out the curve or bubbles then clear over them. you have to be carefull about moving the decal around alot after you strat using the microsol cause is softens the decals and they are very prone to ripping if you move them alot so get the positioning down with water first

Thanks guys. Next time I will try these. Hopefully it could improve my modelling especially for decals!