What Turbo Should I Get?
suprasrule
05-25-2003, 09:15 PM
I have an 1988 Supra Turbo. What turbo should i get an T-66,T04E, or a SP57. I had a T3/T4 turbo. Well after an long thinking peroid when the head gasket blew i said i'm going to go with an bigger turbo. With the time the car is going to be seating . So i taught I'm going to replace the whole motor do it all my self. I had ported and polished a head before the head gasket blew for my car. But I'm going to have time and money to put into the whole car. So I'm going to go with a bigger turbo. What should i get for street racing and at the track. I will have all the mods for it soon.
Thanks
K&N FI Pk
HKS blowoff valve
Magna spark plug wires
550cc Injectors (If i go bigger turbo i might go with 720cc)
T3/T4 turbo (i'm going bigger)
Turbo elbow
Spearco Innercooler
Hks exhaust & test pipe and Down pipe
No cats
Exaust cut-off
fuel pump and manual pressure regulator
Lexus/REMI air fuel management system
Clutch Master stage 3
Fluidine radiator
Greddy boost controler
Gauges to monitor everything
Eibach Springs
KONI Struts
Thanks
K&N FI Pk
HKS blowoff valve
Magna spark plug wires
550cc Injectors (If i go bigger turbo i might go with 720cc)
T3/T4 turbo (i'm going bigger)
Turbo elbow
Spearco Innercooler
Hks exhaust & test pipe and Down pipe
No cats
Exaust cut-off
fuel pump and manual pressure regulator
Lexus/REMI air fuel management system
Clutch Master stage 3
Fluidine radiator
Greddy boost controler
Gauges to monitor everything
Eibach Springs
KONI Struts
Cbass
05-25-2003, 10:14 PM
Well, are you using stock internals? You might want to consider upgrading your rods and pistons before you get a higher flowing turbocharger like a T66 or a T04E...
suprasrule
05-25-2003, 10:23 PM
I'm going to when i replace the whole engine. JE pistons 20 thousands and maybe Crower Billet rods.
fatninja19
05-28-2003, 11:35 PM
might as well do it now, becuase there's not going to be much boost to play with on a bigger turbo and stock internals.
R1-rider
05-28-2003, 11:55 PM
Rebuild the heads (valve assemblies, cams, gaskets, timing gears upgrade?, etc), also get racing pistons while you are at it, and new piston seals.
The worst thing to do to your engine is to give it too many horsies then it can handle.
The worst thing to do to your engine is to give it too many horsies then it can handle.
NSX-R-SSJ20K
05-29-2003, 07:05 AM
Depends what you're using it for
out and out Racer or Race/Daily Driver
-
"a/r stands for area / radius on the turbine side of a turbo. area being the area of the turbine inlet and radius being the distance from the center of the turbine shaft to the center of the turbine inlet. changing this property affects the spool-up and overall flow of a turbo. lower a/r generally reduces spool-up and maximum flow of a turbo."
- From mkiv.com
There's a Fluid flow equation and theory from Engineering Mechanics that says part of the above statement is inaccurate the equation is pAV is the mass flow rate. since the fluid is compressible (or air this still should apply) then Mass flow rate is constant. p1A1V1=p2A2V2 A being area and V being velocity P being Density. I think its just the wording so whatever.
The A/R ratio basically tells you when the boost will start.
The bigger the number the bigger the size of the housing it can also mean that should it be too big a large amount of lag may result and waiting for it to spool may taking an iceage. There's the other problem too the smaller the number the smaller the exhaust housing. Smaller numbers result in a greater velocity of air.
If you decrease the size of the exhaust housing on the turbo (affects A/R Ratio) then Velocity increases. If you increase the size velocity decreases. The only problem is an increase in velocity of the air can result in surges in power delivery and it chokes of the air at higher RPM's.
Wastegates dump excess Exhaust but should a turbo be too small it might be dumping exhaust all the time and result in lack of efficiency.
You need to find a nice compromise between the velocity and Lag. Turbonetics seems to think .82 is good for street and track applications.
You can always try to compensate for lag in the way you drive. Anti-Lag systems or for rally drivers only cuz they screw up your turbo.
"
T66: Capable of making 600-675 rwhp, the T66 is a bigger turbo yet, this is probably as big a turbo as I would recommend for the street, it makes full boost right around 4250 rpm on most cars, a significant amount of lag, but not horrendous... (full boost being 1.5-1.6 bar) This is a very common turbo, and a nice setup for drag racing with some street driving.
" source Mkiv.com
T04E is a Garret turbo right? and the other i have never heard of.
http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/t4.html various parts for the T04E
SP57 Complete Turbo Kit
More (Large) Pictures ITEM # SP57 Kit
The SP57 turbo kit is perfect for stock fuel systems & offers one of the quickest spooling turbos on the market.
This kit includes:
SP57 Turbo, Ceramic Coated with a Polished Housing
Mild Steel (not Stainless) Header, Ceramic Coated
HKS GT Wastegate - Simply the Best
HKS Racing Type 2 BOV - Again, the Best
4" Powder Coated Mandrel Bent Intake Pipe with Bracket
4" K&N Air Filter
Ceramic Coated Midpipe
Full Length Downpipe, Ceramic Coated
3" Intercooler Piping with BOV Flange, Powder Coated
All Fittings, Hoses, Bolts, Lines, Filters, etc. Included
source http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=211&SearchYN=N
I'm not sure how reliable that website is. They also seem extremely pricey T51R Kit sounds a bit expensive since i know where you can get the T51R turbo for 2500 but whatever.
I think thats an odd choice of turbo's the SP57 isn't in the same sort of range as the T66 the SP57 does less than 500rwhp according to MVmotorsports.
If you want to makesure you're the fastest at a track you might want to get the T66.
You also need a fuel delivery system that can cope with such a large load
upgrading the injectors is a good start but you might also need a better fuel pump and a better engine management system to cope with it.
You also should have something to check for Knocking. You don't want to spend a lot of money for it too all go wrong.
out and out Racer or Race/Daily Driver
-
"a/r stands for area / radius on the turbine side of a turbo. area being the area of the turbine inlet and radius being the distance from the center of the turbine shaft to the center of the turbine inlet. changing this property affects the spool-up and overall flow of a turbo. lower a/r generally reduces spool-up and maximum flow of a turbo."
- From mkiv.com
There's a Fluid flow equation and theory from Engineering Mechanics that says part of the above statement is inaccurate the equation is pAV is the mass flow rate. since the fluid is compressible (or air this still should apply) then Mass flow rate is constant. p1A1V1=p2A2V2 A being area and V being velocity P being Density. I think its just the wording so whatever.
The A/R ratio basically tells you when the boost will start.
The bigger the number the bigger the size of the housing it can also mean that should it be too big a large amount of lag may result and waiting for it to spool may taking an iceage. There's the other problem too the smaller the number the smaller the exhaust housing. Smaller numbers result in a greater velocity of air.
If you decrease the size of the exhaust housing on the turbo (affects A/R Ratio) then Velocity increases. If you increase the size velocity decreases. The only problem is an increase in velocity of the air can result in surges in power delivery and it chokes of the air at higher RPM's.
Wastegates dump excess Exhaust but should a turbo be too small it might be dumping exhaust all the time and result in lack of efficiency.
You need to find a nice compromise between the velocity and Lag. Turbonetics seems to think .82 is good for street and track applications.
You can always try to compensate for lag in the way you drive. Anti-Lag systems or for rally drivers only cuz they screw up your turbo.
"
T66: Capable of making 600-675 rwhp, the T66 is a bigger turbo yet, this is probably as big a turbo as I would recommend for the street, it makes full boost right around 4250 rpm on most cars, a significant amount of lag, but not horrendous... (full boost being 1.5-1.6 bar) This is a very common turbo, and a nice setup for drag racing with some street driving.
" source Mkiv.com
T04E is a Garret turbo right? and the other i have never heard of.
http://www.turbocharged.com/catalog/t4.html various parts for the T04E
SP57 Complete Turbo Kit
More (Large) Pictures ITEM # SP57 Kit
The SP57 turbo kit is perfect for stock fuel systems & offers one of the quickest spooling turbos on the market.
This kit includes:
SP57 Turbo, Ceramic Coated with a Polished Housing
Mild Steel (not Stainless) Header, Ceramic Coated
HKS GT Wastegate - Simply the Best
HKS Racing Type 2 BOV - Again, the Best
4" Powder Coated Mandrel Bent Intake Pipe with Bracket
4" K&N Air Filter
Ceramic Coated Midpipe
Full Length Downpipe, Ceramic Coated
3" Intercooler Piping with BOV Flange, Powder Coated
All Fittings, Hoses, Bolts, Lines, Filters, etc. Included
source http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=211&SearchYN=N
I'm not sure how reliable that website is. They also seem extremely pricey T51R Kit sounds a bit expensive since i know where you can get the T51R turbo for 2500 but whatever.
I think thats an odd choice of turbo's the SP57 isn't in the same sort of range as the T66 the SP57 does less than 500rwhp according to MVmotorsports.
If you want to makesure you're the fastest at a track you might want to get the T66.
You also need a fuel delivery system that can cope with such a large load
upgrading the injectors is a good start but you might also need a better fuel pump and a better engine management system to cope with it.
You also should have something to check for Knocking. You don't want to spend a lot of money for it too all go wrong.
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