holley 600
luxeryvic
02-21-2011, 09:06 AM
hi, im lookin for a carb i can put on my 77 monte project without having to rebuild it. the engine is a 305 edelbrock performer intake mild cam and headers
the carb im lookin at it is a 600 holley that was running when taken off but it has been sitting in heated storage for a couple years
what are the chances of the seals being still good and just being able to bolt it on tune and run
the carb im lookin at it is a 600 holley that was running when taken off but it has been sitting in heated storage for a couple years
what are the chances of the seals being still good and just being able to bolt it on tune and run
MrPbody
02-21-2011, 09:35 AM
A carb "sitting" for a couple of years will require a "kit", at minimum. Sorry...
For the dollar, your best "bet" would be one of those Edelbrock AFB "knock-offs". The 305 can do "fine" with a 600.
Jim
For the dollar, your best "bet" would be one of those Edelbrock AFB "knock-offs". The 305 can do "fine" with a 600.
Jim
luxeryvic
02-21-2011, 10:44 AM
well the carb im lookin at is $75 and kits are cheap just ive been workin and tryin to get a q jet goin and even with a manual it is preety complicated and i cant seem to get it, ive heard holleys are easier to work on is that right?
luxeryvic
02-21-2011, 02:57 PM
also when i come to a choke wat wood you recommend the 75 dollar one is a manual and i can set up for either one. i plan on only drivin this car in the summer
denisond3
02-21-2011, 08:24 PM
I think of Holleys as being a little easier to work on, but its not a big deal. The q-jets were fine carbs, when new or if properly rebuilt. The same thing will be true of the Holley. What I like about the Holleys is having the float bowl vent tube sticking up inside the air cleaner. When my motorhome sits for months - i just pour a few teaspoonfuls of fuel into the float bowl vent tube, pump the gas pedal twice, close the choke, and presto; the engine starts instantly.
I prefer manual chokes. If you use an automatic choke, the bimetallic 'clock spring' element that senses the engine heat should be a new replacement. The original bimetallic spring ages over the years, and no longer swings with temperature changes as much as it originally did.
If possible I would use a plastic spacer under the carb, to isolate it from the heat of the intake manifold. And dont overtighten the screws on the carburetor assembly!
I prefer manual chokes. If you use an automatic choke, the bimetallic 'clock spring' element that senses the engine heat should be a new replacement. The original bimetallic spring ages over the years, and no longer swings with temperature changes as much as it originally did.
If possible I would use a plastic spacer under the carb, to isolate it from the heat of the intake manifold. And dont overtighten the screws on the carburetor assembly!
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