golden eagle sleeves

I am thinking that when I do my bottom end on my B18c I will just go ahead and have golden eagle resleeve my block. I am wondering if anyone knows how much this runs in price and what people think about this? Is this worth it and with a metal head gasket and JE 9:1 pistons with crower rods what is the max boost I can run with a Drag 3 kit. Please give all your opinions. Thanks:cool:

With 9:1 compression assuming pump gas 93 octane, I'd say you can run 16-18 intercooled boost. Since you are going through the trouble of sleeving, get the 8.5:1 pistons and run about 22-24 PSI, it will make more power.

i agree with pwman but be very careful at tuning.....if you are going to run psi like that

Does anyone have their block sleeved with golden eagle and if so what do you think about it? Please someone give me some feedback.

I've contacted them a few times. they will sleeve up to like 85 mm for 750, then boring and honing is 125. So figure around a grand or a little over with shipping. JE pistons will run you depending on your engine around 500 bucks, if they don't make them for your car custom pistons for an extra 50 bucks. Crower rods for about 640 shipped. With 8.5:1 pistons look to boost at about 18 psi any more will need engine management system.

Oh and its like 95 bucks for a cometic head gasket for a turbo. Good luck. I started out looking to do just pistons rods sleeves and turbo and I am dumping like 8 grand into my car now. If you do it, do it right so you don't have motor pieces. hehe.

They are the best are brightest ladies and gents.
JE pistons are the suck. www.theoldone.com
Endyne Wiseco are the shit. You own a honda, not an Eclipse. In my expierence Hondas like larger turbos at lower boost. You don't need to run 30psi from a t25 or a .50 trim t3. After you sleeve that block get a 60-1 t3/t4 .63 a/r, pop in some Endyn 10:1 pistons, Hondata, 550cc injectors and 12-14psi on pump gas. Depending on tuner. You will NOT be able to run 18psi on pump gas with out engine managment, IE Haltech, Hondata, Tec II. etc. Even when you have one of these expensive systems. 18psi is a stretch.
Tuning is key to everything. You'll be looking at 400-500whp AND you will have power off boost. Hondas do not like low compression, I don't care who you talk to. We have Hondata, that is what makes Hondas shine over DSMs who MUST use lower compression. We just have to work harder then they do.

Why get a T3/T4 if your only running 12-14 PSI?

A larger turbo will flow more air per PSI then a smaller one. You want to get as much air in and out as possible. It's not the pressure that makes hp, it's getting the air in and out.

For example. A t25 will (for example only) push out 250cfm @ 12psi, a t3/t4 .57 trim will flow 600cfm @ 12 psi, hence making LOADS more power. The key here is to not outflow your motor. Granted it will spool slower, but make more power.

OK now I got that part, but still a question - Say a certain compression engine will only allow a certain PSI to run on pump gas, where does CFM come in here? Some people say you can run 14 PSI on pump gas with 9:1 compression, what about CFM? Does CFM matter when it comes to detenation factors?

In theory, I believe 12psi and 9:1 are ideal for pump gas(93 octane).
In practice, it all comes down to tuning. Ive seen a 10:1 forged piston B18b motor run 16psi from pump gas with Hondata.
There's an equation which Im not really qualified to explain that can calculate compression ratio under boost. CFM has nothing to do with detonation as far as I've seen. CFM also has nothing to do with pressure, which is the cause of detonation in this case. There are other causes of detonation, but no need to mention them at this time.

So it doesn't matter how much CFM gets pumped in, it's the matter of pressure?

For detonation? Yes.
For power? No.

You can also outflow your motor by using too large a turbo at too high of CFM, this will cause compressor surge, and the eventual distruction of the turbo.

I calculated at one time the flow rate of my D16y8 engine and matched it properly with a 60-1 @ 10psi, ideal. unfortunatly I have a heavily worked head, and low compression pistons, which Ive not worked the numbers for. I would say my motor could do 20psi w/o fear of surge. I do not have sleeves however, and Im not looking for more then 12psi.

Can you do all bottom end work and run 16 psi without head work or will you have to upgrade cams, valves, springs, etc. to make your engine run properly. Also runnung alot of hp can I expect to be replacing a tranny every 6 months just by daily driving?

With a completly stock motor on a GSR Ive seen 285whp with 8psi from a 57 trim t3/t4, 450cc DSM injectors, and Hondata.

Your tranny will survive.

With PROPER tuning you can run 16psi on race test, 110 octane. Possibly on 93, but that's pushing it. Probably making in excess of 350whp

Originally posted by 00tegGsr
I am thinking that when I do my bottom end on my B18c I will just go ahead and have golden eagle resleeve my block. I am wondering if anyone knows how much this runs in price and what people think about this? Is this worth it and with a metal head gasket and JE 9:1 pistons with crower rods what is the max boost I can run with a Drag 3 kit. Please give all your opinions. Thanks:cool:


Here's my view on this. They make a excellent sleeve. They do great work. My motor is a b18c1 and they sleeved it. I run 1bar daily on 93 octane and have run 25psi on C16, only being limited by my boost controller, otherwise i would run more. I would go with the arias 9:1 compression pistons and the crower rods. The limit on boost depends on what size turbo you the drag kit comes with because eventually you'll hit max boost and just be spinning hot air. Also, tunning, what are your plans for fuel managment. That will also help to know where you will stand.

I would like to know if I got JE 8.5:1 pistons standard bore, Eagle rods, Cometic head gasket, w/ ARP studs how much boost can I run off a drag 3 kit with 440cc injectors and an APEX I vafc?:confused:

Get 550 cc injectors and run 20 PSI. But you have to get your block sleeved after 14 PSI. If you don't want to have the block sleeved then run the 440's and 14 PSI. But then you can get 9:1 compression with only 12-14 PSI.

With only 440's and a afc, you'll still want to get a fmu and a intank fuel pump. I'm not sure if the drag kit comes with that. But even then on the 440's you could run up to 1bar on pump gas safely and close to 18-20psi on race gas.

PWMAN- You don't need to sleeve the block for 14psi. We have a stock gsr motor running 15psi on pump gas making 348whp.

I have alot of questions. First this is a list of the mods I have as of now that will be used with the turbo.
JG edelbrock intake manifold
JG edelbrock throttle body
aem cam gears
unorthodox underdrive pulleys
aem fuel rail and FPR
MSD digital sci ignition and dist cap w/coil
nology wires
greddy evo exhaust
dc short throw shifter

These are the mods I plan on getting next

ApexI VAFC
RC 440cc injectors
Drag 3 kit w/tial wategate comes with FMU and fuel pump
JE pistons.
Eagle rods
Cometic head gasket w/ARP studs

I plan on having this car as a daily driver and have decided that block resleeving is not needed for what I want. I am only interested in running 15 psi with this set up but I would like to run more with race fuel if you think it is safe with these mods. I would also like to know if eagle rods will hold up as good as crower. Also what compression piston should I be running for what I want? :cool:

what motor are you gonna run this on?


EDIT: lol I feel like a dumbass.

Ok, you should beable to run at least 1bar daily on pump gas 93 octane. Running a little lean around 13:1 a/f isn't so bad on 93 octane. As far as will eagle rods hold as good as crower. Yes and no. I haven't had a problem making 450+ to the wheels. But if your shooting for 500+whp i would recommend shelling out the cash for the crower rods. I like the arias 9:1 compression pistons, it's what i use. And if you get low comp. pistons, use a stock honda headgasket. Also, with the 440cc injectors make sure you use a 12:1 disk for the FMU. Trust me, people will say you'll run way to rich, but in all honestly, some of the fastest street cars on the east coast run that setup before going really big. Hell i ran my 11.4 run using that setup. I would also run either NGK or MSD plug wires vs. nology.

Originally posted by civicgsr_T4_60-1

PWMAN- You don't need to sleeve the block for 14psi. We have a stock gsr motor running 15psi on pump gas making 348whp.

I said 14 to be safe. GSR's are a little better because of the oil squirters keep the sleeves a little cooler and lubricated. LS's don't have that. 16 is probably max for a B18C stock sleeves. 14 is for B18B.

will a block guard, forged pistons, and eagle rods be a good investment if I'm planning on running 10 psi with a drag kit on a 95 integra? Or should I just forget it and run stock? I like to be safe and I don't want to wreck my engine. I heard good and bad things about block guards...some say it blocks coolant...some say it protects the upper part of the cylinders which are the weakest part.....Or should I get it sleeved and run 12psi??? Just want to be safe...better safe than sorry. I got a quote from a shop that would install a block guard, pistons, rods and of course a new head gasket and studs for $2400. Is that high? They said just to do the sleeves it would be $1200 not including rods and pistons. My integra has high mileage like 152,000 so I figure rebuiling it would make it kind of new.....would that be safe to turbo the car? it has no compression problems..just worried about the mileage...which is one of the reasons I would rather sleeve because I'd have new cylinders instead of 152,000 mile cylinders.....or would that be a waste of money???

Originally posted by super_man_3179
will a block guard, forged pistons, and eagle rods be a good investment if I'm planning on running 10 psi with a drag kit on a 95 integra? Or should I just forget it and run stock? I like to be safe and I don't want to wreck my engine. I heard good and bad things about block guards...some say it blocks coolant...some say it protects the upper part of the cylinders which are the weakest part.....Or should I get it sleeved and run 12psi??? Just want to be safe...better safe than sorry. I got a quote from a shop that would install a block guard, pistons, rods and of course a new head gasket and studs for $2400. Is that high? They said just to do the sleeves it would be $1200 not including rods and pistons. My integra has high mileage like 152,000 so I figure rebuiling it would make it kind of new.....would that be safe to turbo the car? it has no compression problems..just worried about the mileage...which is one of the reasons I would rather sleeve because I'd have new cylinders instead of 152,000 mile cylinders.....or would that be a waste of money???

You can run 14 PSI on a stock LS engine. 12 is more safe. 10 is plenty safe even with the mile you got on it. Forget the internals, run stock and save your money. Once you got a couple grand built up, turn the turbo up to 14 PSI, add more fuel and see if it blows up or not!:iceslolan It might not, but it might. No need for block guard unless you are going past 14 PSI. 152K miles is not a lot on a Honda!

For civic GSR.Why should I run the stock honda head gasket vs. a metal cometic head gasket? Also have you had bad experiences with nology wires? Also with my set up you read if I got everything how much whp should I have estimate? Have you had better experiences with Arias pistons than JE? Do you run a block guard on your motor too?

Nology wires are a gimmick. Nothing will be gained by using them. Stock block, 15psi and Hondata Ive seen 276whp on an LS. (b18b).
Arias are higher quality and lower tolerances then JE. They are just better. Hence the price difference. A block guard will partially seal your deck... If your looking to go high hp, get sleeved from GEM (golden eagle.) Don't worry about the block guard. Yes. 2400 is INSANE for that work. Expect to pay around 1100.

Originally posted by 00tegGsr
For civic GSR.Why should I run the stock honda head gasket vs. a metal cometic head gasket? Also have you had bad experiences with nology wires? Also with my set up you read if I got everything how much whp should I have estimate? Have you had better experiences with Arias pistons than JE? Do you run a block guard on your motor too?

As far as the headgasket, some things are just better left stock. I run a stock honda headgasket and it will not fail you. Nology and magnecor(spelling) wires are crap, NGK or MSD, that's all i'll mess with.
Arias, JE they are both good, I just went with what i thought was the best.
No block guard, if you sleeve the motor don't use it. I've heard of people overheating because it blocks some passage for your coolant, but then i've heard of others not having problems. Just sleeve the block, you'll be much happier.
Well first, there are a few things i would knock off your list. I would not go with the AEM cam gears, stock are fine, if you plan on building your head, the go with them, but if your leaving the head stock, don't worry about it. The UR pullies, don't do it, they honestly don't give that much power. Nology wires have been explained. The short throw, I would never chance a nice turbo motor to a short shifter, just not worth it to me, not to mention, you're not gonna shift that much faster. Everything else looks good though.
On your setup at close to 15psi, i would guess, around 300-350whp.