Using Future on vac forms

I have tried and failed repeatedly to use Future to coat and enhance the look of vac form windscreens on 1/43 cars. Every time I apply it to the windscreen with a brush, it gets too thick in some places, or leaves tiny bubbles, ending a complete mess. I have tried various sizes and shapes and bristles with no success. So I have to ask; what do you suggest to use to make the Future apply evenly? Thanks.

I hardly ever use Future on 1/24 cars. I find that it is highly overrated stuff. Great for floors, but not really much of a miracle product for other things.

Yet for small scale canopies/windshields, it can be useful. The only way I've been able to get it to work in this application is to dip the part straight into the bottle. Then set it on a paper towel, and place a cover/container over it in hopes of keeping dust off of it while it dries. You won't get it optically flat, but it will look good on a small transparency.

I use a Q-tip or cosmetic applicator to apply future to 1/24 scale bodies. Just make sure you NEVER touch an area you already coated. Dipping works for smaller parts. The occasional fuzzy or ripple can be polished out once it is dry.

Future works great and surely is an improvement, even on 1/24th scale windows. I even do whole 1/43 Spark bodies with it without runners, ...

First of all, make sure the part you want to do is free from grease. For injection moulding of windows, moulds are often cleaned with 'mould release', which makes them greasy and leaves a tiny film on the window surface. Cleaning the part with an alchohol solution (e.g. IPA) will work. Make sure to make no scratches!

For the application of the Future, there are some ways that work:

1. get a small windscreenwasher pump and a small fuel filter (paper model) and put the filter on the exit of the pump. Let de future run for some time to get all the airbubbles out of the filter, than do the part you want to coat. (the best but most expensive and difficult way to do it)
2. get a soft syringe (the once you can buy in modelling stores to mix paint) and soak it full of Future. Make sure you don't take future from the surface as it will include airbubbles. Keep the syringe opening against the part you want to coat and let the liquid flow, moving the syringe over the part evenly.

Those 2 ways work, believe me. I've tried them myself and I work for a company that coats transparent PC and PMMA sheets. Samples are always made either way.

After the application, you still need to dip the access of. Place the lower border on a paper towel, toilet paper, ... to make sure all access coating is soaked up. You'll almost have no borders. When you have runners, did the paper in a bit of future, wait for 10 seconds and then use the wet part to soak the runner of the part.
To make sure no dust gets on the wet part, put it under a box, ...

I have never managed to get really satisfactory results with Future on bodies but it has saved my bacon on clear parts a few times now.

I slowly (to avoid air bubbles) pour the Future into a wide necked container/tub to allow for easy and smooth dipping and let it stand for a few minutes.

Holding the part in self-closing tweezers or something similar, I then SLOWLY and gently glide the part into the Future and then draw it back out.

I dry it in my dehydrator tipped up with an edge resting on a paper towel to absorb the run off.

If I do get a run or dust (which sometimes happens), I simply clean the part with Mr. Muscle and then try again. I have always go a good result in a maximum of three attempts.

When it works, it really does bring a clear part to life IMHO.

Thanks for the suggestions. I am having the biggest problem with vac form windscreens on 1/43 formula car models once the screen has been glued in place. What do you suggest for doing a vac form that small once it is fitted?

What exactly are you trying to do, fill the gap between the frame and the "glass"?
Or just make it clearer looking?

I am just trying to enhance the look of the vac form windscreen (small scratches and such) .

I use plastic polish. Bare Metal Foil used to sell a plastic polish that is even great on rubbing out paint but they no longer sell it. I bought up all I could find. It is the best polish I have used so far. Get a kit for taking scratches out of CD's. I don't really like the Novus products. I just got a plastic polish from Griot's Car Care but I have not tried it yet. www.griotsgarage.com (http://www.griotsgarage.com) It has a strong wax smell to it so I'm not sure I'm going to like it either. I'm pretty hard to please. I do resin casting. I will spend several hours just polishing and doing the prep work for a part. Mainly and especially a window part. I like to polish most bodies as it helps the part come out easier and makes the mold last longer. I have painted bodies with nail polish and wet sand with 2400 grit cloth and polish with the BMF. It looks pretty good. I built this 70 TA fake convertible. Painted and polished as described. Used a 57 Chevy 1:25 scale convertible boot from another resin kit.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h140/plumberboy1/70TA7.jpg