No wipers, A/C blower, power windows, no TC lockup, and ABS light on

Went to take my truck ('95 C2500) for it's annual emissions test the other day. I had replaced the battery beforehand because I left the underhood work light on and drained the old one DEADDEAD...could not be revived.

When I went to get in, the remote locks didn't work, nor the remote start (both are Viper brand aftermarket install). The truck started okay but I did not have any power windows, the A/C blower didn't run, no windshield wipers, and the ABS light was on. The power locks at the door worked. Concerning, but still driveable, so I went to get tested.

While driving, the brakes were fine but ABS did not work when I tested with a sudden stop. Also, the torque converter would not lock up at highway speeds.

I'm guessing a bad ground but don't know where to look for it...hints? Any other possibilities? Thanks for any help!

Maybe some fuses blew on the batt change, so check those 1st. If it cranks and starts fine then most likely not a batt grounding issue. Try disconnecting the batt grnd for a couple of hours and see what happens. I don't have a '95 wiring schematic so I'm in the dark to help with what powers what.

Hi,
If your truck is like mine, (97 K1500) then there are two cables on the positive post that often don't make good contact. I had to remove the battery post bolt and really clean the wire ends. I also replaced the bolts with new ones from the auto parts store. While there I saw and bought a special small ratchet wrench for the little bolt heads, 6 sided 5/16 so I could tighten them better.
When it was failing, I could grab and move the cables to get it to work for a short time.
Bob B

I didn't check all the fuses, but I did check the wiper fuse when I noticed it not working and it was fine.

I did take a wire brush to the negative post bolt, but could stand to do the positive one, too, I suppose...yes, it has two cables. Doesn't make sense for some stuff to work and others not. I'll have some time tomorrow to look into it more.

Any and all help is appreciated...thanks!

With the ign sw in the "run" position check all fuses on both sides for 12v using a test lite.

So, this all happened with a simple batt change??

Did the fuse block check with ignition on and got no power from the circuits affected. So I'm thinking it is a fusible link or the ignition switch itself.

If it is the ignition switch, can that be replaced while keeping the keys? I recall it being two separate yet connected parts, but would like confirmation.

I don't think it was the battery dying itself that caused this. My guess it was the attempts to recharge it with the battery charger that did it in.

Did the fuse block check with ignition on and got no power from the circuits affected. So I'm thinking it is a fusible link or the ignition switch itself.

If it is the ignition switch, can that be replaced while keeping the keys? I recall it being two separate yet connected parts, but would like confirmation.

I don't think it was the battery dying itself that caused this. My guess it was the attempts to recharge it with the battery charger that did it in.

the ignition switch is just that an electrical switch.

the key lock cylinder is linked to the electrical ignition switch..this is a separate part..common failure at this age the switch..

locate switch make sure connections are secure not burned up ..then replace switch.

Pretty expensinve for "just an electrical switch". But yes, it is old...16 years and 204k miles. Guess I can add this to my garage "to do" list. Thanks.

Pretty expensinve for "just an electrical switch". But yes, it is old...16 years and 204k miles. Guess I can add this to my garage "to do" list. Thanks.


last time I got an ignition switch it was 30.oo ...not for your truck ..

how much for your vehicle ?

It's about $116 new at the parts stores...wouldn't trust a used part from a yard in this case. Hopefully, I can time it with a good coupon to bring it down $30-40. Thanks.

It's about $116 new at the parts stores...wouldn't trust a used part from a yard in this case. Hopefully, I can time it with a good coupon to bring it down $30-40. Thanks.

what I have seen is the springs break in the switch. contacts then do not wipe properly.

Got more time to dive into this and got to where the switch is loose but will not come out/off from where it connects just under the key lock. Any advice on how this comes off? I can pry it about 1/4" away before something springy keeps it from coming out...I don't want to pry too hard.

[EDIT] The key lock is still in the steering column, as is the upper column shroud, as some sites say you don't have to remove it and others say you do. I'd rather not fool with it if possible.

All I know is that it's the rainy season here in MD and having no wipers or ABS is bad....everything else not working is just a nuisance.

Turns out you need to remove the key lock because there are two screws that hold the switch in place and one is hidden by the upper column cover. Trying to move it out of the way isn't enough. To be continued....

Got the new ignition switch installed a week or so ago and was not the problem. All the fuses look good, so it leads me to believe it is a fusible link. But I can't see them anywhere in the engine compartment. Are they covered up by the wiring harness sheath?

FWIW, I pried open the old ignition switch. The springs looked fine but the contacts did look oxidized. At least I only paid $45 for the new one.

Got the new ignition switch installed a week or so ago and was not the problem. All the fuses look good, so it leads me to believe it is a fusible link. But I can't see them anywhere in the engine compartment. Are they covered up by the wiring harness sheath?

FWIW, I pried open the old ignition switch. The springs looked fine but the contacts did look oxidized. At least I only paid $45 for the new one.

The fuse box gets power from battery threw a fuse link wire.
If it was bad you would not start or run or have power on any fuses.

First confirm good 12 volts to all fuses and also threw all fuses in fuse box.
Like check both sides of fuse for good voltage.
Maxie fuse no. 5 feeds ign switch for wiper and AC/heater and blower.
Make sure it has power on both sides at fuse box and is feeding power to ign switch and threw it.
Auto zone online used to have some wiring diagrams.
Maybe still do.

Already did the fuse box check (noted above). Only those circuits that I have listed have no power with the key on and no fuses are blown.

Only other thing I can think of is a loose ground connection, but I find it hard to believe such disparate circuits could share a common ground.

Already did the fuse box check (noted above). Only those circuits that I have listed have no power with the key on and no fuses are blown.

Only other thing I can think of is a loose ground connection, but I find it hard to believe such disparate circuits could share a common ground.

I would suggest you go back and do the fuse box check again.
Lose connections or bad wiring/fuse sometimes will check good one time and next time not so good.

Check fuse 6 A 50 amp fuse that feeds to and threw ign switch for wiper Ac/blower motor 12 volt power.

Check for power on fuse 6 both sides with key on wiper on and Ac /blower on and see if you are losing voltage /power at fuse.

Also a load test sometime helps find problem.
Like a old head light or blower motor will load circuit.
Or run a jumper from fuse to your truck blower motor.

If not losing power at fuse box.
Fuse 6 feeds to ign switch and from ign switch on to wiper and ac /blower.

Well, it appears to have been a poor install job on a Viper remote start/door locks relay module under the dash. There was a electrical tape wrapped connection that had rubbed through on the crossbrace behind the dash going to the red/white wire on the ignition switch.

I checked the wiring from the under-hood fuse box to the battery as well as the ignition switch with no breaks. So it leaves me to believe that it is a fault in the relay module itself. I won't mention the chain store I bought it from (initials are BB), but they will get a call from me to fix it. To be continued...

Well, it appears to have been a poor install job on a Viper remote start/door locks relay module under the dash. There was a electrical tape wrapped connection that had rubbed through on the crossbrace behind the dash going to the red/white wire on the ignition switch.

I checked the wiring from the under-hood fuse box to the battery as well as the ignition switch with no breaks. So it leaves me to believe that it is a fault in the relay module itself. I won't mention the chain store I bought it from (initials are BB), but they will get a call from me to fix it. To be continued...


having electrical problems with an old vehicle is common...when alarms/remote start systems are added this then creates a very common problem as you have even with much newer vehicles..

Using test lights to locate your wiring/power issues is not the proper way to find the problem..you need to measure voltage and find exactly where the voltage drop is.

when the ignition switch was checked as I recommended did you use the voltmeter to see if the switch had voltage as I mentioned from the input side to the output side ??? you never mentioned voltage testing results..fuses need voltages measured under load condition to find the common supply/feed wire that has the voltage drop..Or possibly an open ground... you stated the wipers don't work ...check for voltage at the wiper motor input for 12 volts..then check the ground side for zero volts.
if the ground and feed side have 12 volts the ground is defective.


with the alarm/remote start system improperly installed , most just remove it completely to see if this is the cause. with the taped wiring connections not properly secured and wires run that are now damaged because of poor routing I would remove it all...having the install people do this you could find youself with more problems..

I Want to say again,
Clean the two cable ends at the positive battery post.
I've experienced it and a friend recently needed to be pointed to it for the same issue.
The cables get insulated from each other by unseen corrosion and do not make contact.
Take the bolt out separate and clean the cable tips then bolt up tightly to the battery.
I had to get new batt post bolts at NAPA to be able to tighten properly and use a six point 5/16 to tighten.
Bob B

Thanks, Bob. I was going to give a more detailed response for j Cat later, but I'll respond to you to note that during my testing over the weekend, I tested the battery cable from the + post to the underhood fuse box...it was good, and all the fuses to that also test with good volts.

Then going from there to the ignition switch, there should be volts to both the red and red/white wires with key off. [EDIT] Red/white was good, but red was no good. Both wires test good for continuity from the switch to the connector mounted near the steering column, testing the connector itself by backprobing to the wire ends that go through the firewall. I have yet to determine which red wire(s) from the underhood fuse box go to the ignition connector...ran out of time.

I'll have to give more later when I can describe what is going on with it in front of me. What boggles me is that there are fuses in the power feeds to the relay module (they are solid state relays I think) that did not blow...you'd think that a short like that would cause them to blow. But I think instead it fried one or more relays. At the very least, I'd want a new module installed under warranty to eliminate that possibility.

To be continued...

It is confirmed. The remote's relay box is faulty. I removed the underhood fuses for "IGN A" (red/white wire) and "IGN B" (red wire) and tested them for continuity to the switch, continuity between the wires, and to ground (in case of a short to ground).

Both circuits had good continuity and were not grounded or crossed. But reconnecting the fuses, only the red/white had voltage. So the only thing left to do was to disconnect the relay box which was spliced into the red wire/IGN B circuit.

Thankfully, the box has three of it's own fuses I could remove (but wish I had thought of doing before!). When I did that, the 50-Amp IGN B fuse blew. After that, I disconnected the + terminal to diagnose the IGN B circuit for continuity and for short to ground. It was continuous and not grounded. So, I felt confident the fault had been removed. I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery...circuit held. I turned the key to "run" and I had windows, wipers, blower, and ABS back! And a test drive showed TC lock up.

Now I just have to get that ornery relay box replaced. Thanks to all for the test tips. Wouldn't have found it otherwise.

It is confirmed. The remote's relay box is faulty.

Now I just have to get that ornery relay box replaced. Thanks to all for the test tips. Wouldn't have found it otherwise.


this is why I recomended removal of this alarm/remote start system.

you now know for sure that this is the problem ...many have had these type failures with these modifications.

post back if BB corrects this. going over all wires they worked on and securing all connections and wire routing for any future issues is needed. good luck ..

It was tempting to just cut it out, but I didn't for two reasons. One, the truck was still driveable, so I knew I had the option to drive it somewhere and removing it wouldn't affect that.

Two, I knew it was under lifetime warranties against both factory and installation defects and if I removed it, I thought they could have just cause to say I tampered with it or caused the failure while I tried to remove it. In other words, I didn't want to leave a second set of fingerprints at the scene of a crime.

I'll be calling today to set up an appointment...to be continued...

It was tempting to just cut it out, but I didn't for two reasons. One, the truck was still driveable, so I knew I had the option to drive it somewhere and removing it wouldn't affect that.

Two, I knew it was under lifetime warranties against both factory and installation defects and if I removed it, I thought they could have just cause to say I tampered with it or caused the failure while I tried to remove it. In other words, I didn't want to leave a second set of fingerprints at the scene of a crime.

I'll be calling today to set up an appointment...to be continued...

when I said remove it , I was refering to the electrical connections. not physically taking this out of the vehicle.

with how you described this failure It may be more than just the unit..50 amps is a lot of power ...

with having them work on this make sure they show you where the 50 amps shorted out.