'93 Suburban c1500 hard starts

I recently have noticed that it cranks for a really long time before starting. After warming up, it starts very quickly. I will add that the temps here have been teens to 20s during the days and single digits to teens at night. I'm not sure if this is normal for a throttle body or if there is something to be adjusted or a sensor going bad. This is the first winter I have had it so I'm not sure what to expect. I have a lot of experience working on cars, but this is my first 350 w/ throttle body.

Thanks,

I recently have noticed that it cranks for a really long time before starting. After warming up, it starts very quickly. I will add that the temps here have been teens to 20s during the days and single digits to teens at night. I'm not sure if this is normal for a throttle body or if there is something to be adjusted or a sensor going bad. This is the first winter I have had it so I'm not sure what to expect. I have a lot of experience working on cars, but this is my first 350 w/ throttle body.

Thanks,

It should start good even down to 10 or more below 0.

3 Tips for cold weather starting.

Good Battery and good tune up and the right weight oil.
Have you got these big 3????????

Also check computer system sensors and confirm good cold start fuel pressure.

What is your mileage and when was your last good tune up?

I got the suburban from m grandfather about a year ago and it had about 92k. He really didn't drive it that much and I'm not sure how often he had it checked over, but it is spotless. It now has 108k on it and I have changed oil (5w30) regularly. Since the hard start problem I changed the plugs which were really bad (electrode wore off). this improved the performance and eliminated the misfire/stutter issue, but really had no effect on the starting issue. It did not always have this starting issue. It was really warm the last few days (40-50F) and the starting issue did not change. If it sets for a few hours in the work parking lot or overnight at home, the hard start returns. If it is warm and I am running around town, it starts immediately. I have checked the temp sensor ohms and so far at around 80F and operating temp they are according to the chart. I am going to check cold later tonight. My battery is decent, but will definitely get a new one next year. I have a fuel pressure set and I will check that and report back. Any other sensors to check??

I also wanted to mention that it does not seem to matter if I turn the key and try to start it right away or if I turn the key and wait for the fuel pump to stop. Or turn the key on and off a few times. Still takes a lot of cranks.

I got the suburban from m grandfather about a year ago and it had about 92k. He really didn't drive it that much and I'm not sure how often he had it checked over, but it is spotless. It now has 108k on it and I have changed oil (5w30) regularly. Since the hard start problem I changed the plugs which were really bad (electrode wore off). this improved the performance and eliminated the misfire/stutter issue, but really had no effect on the starting issue. It did not always have this starting issue. It was really warm the last few days (40-50F) and the starting issue did not change. If it sets for a few hours in the work parking lot or overnight at home, the hard start returns. If it is warm and I am running around town, it starts immediately. I have checked the temp sensor ohms and so far at around 80F and operating temp they are according to the chart. I am going to check cold later tonight. My battery is decent, but will definitely get a new one next year. I have a fuel pressure set and I will check that and report back. Any other sensors to check??

What kind of plugs did you feed it?
Did you check your air and fuel filters?
Did you check for good hot apark to all plugs?

On checking sensors you need a scaner to see what sensor reading is to and in computer.

Post back cold and hot start fuel pressure.

Problem solved:

Well, temp sensor checked out. Did not have to mess with the fuel pressure, because it turned out to be a different issue. Two days ago it was raining really hard in the morning when I went to start the burb. I could not get it to fire at all. I used ether starting fluid as well and would not even kick. I now figured this to be ignition related. I got to thinking that there are others that have issues of not starting on a rainy day and found it to be a cracked distributor. So since I was due for wires, distributor cap, rotor and coil I decided to go buy everything. I was amazed when I pulled the cord from the coil and it just fell off the distributor. You can see in the picture that there really wasn't even contact between the plug and top of the distributor. It is amazing how much power is back after changing everything out. Smooth idle and has a really good kick when I punch it like the 350 should. Thanks for the suggestions.

Problem solved:

Well, temp sensor checked out. Did not have to mess with the fuel pressure, because it turned out to be a different issue. Two days ago it was raining really hard in the morning when I went to start the burb. I could not get it to fire at all. I used ether starting fluid as well and would not even kick. I now figured this to be ignition related. I got to thinking that there are others that have issues of not starting on a rainy day and found it to be a cracked distributor. So since I was due for wires, distributor cap, rotor and coil I decided to go buy everything. I was amazed when I pulled the cord from the coil and it just fell off the distributor. You can see in the picture that there really wasn't even contact between the plug and top of the distributor. It is amazing how much power is back after changing everything out. Smooth idle and has a really good kick when I punch it like the 350 should. Thanks for the suggestions.

You are welcome
And Thanks for posting back what you found.

Good find.
That should solve your problem.
Good Luck

Posting a follow up....after a week of better driving, I noticed that at higher rpms it didn't have the power it should. I decided to change the fuel filter which was a good thing since there was a lot of black colored gas that came out on the inlet end indicating a clogged or dirty filter. This ended up solving the high rpm issue. So yesterday my wife brings it home running terrible and barely drivable, so I just give up and decide to do the fuel pump. Four hours later, I am finished and start the Burb, however, same problem exists. Decided to check out the carburetor and found that a fire started and melted the connectors. I will post this in a new thread.

Anyway, I have gone through and replaced the distributor cap, wires, coil, fuel filter and pump. I can lay rubber now. Not sure if I really needed the fuel pump, but it was 18 years old and maybe would have gone soon anyway......

Posting a follow up....after a week of better driving, I noticed that at higher rpms it didn't have the power it should. I decided to change the fuel filter which was a good thing since there was a lot of black colored gas that came out on the inlet end indicating a clogged or dirty filter. This ended up solving the high rpm issue. So yesterday my wife brings it home running terrible and barely drivable, so I just give up and decide to do the fuel pump. Four hours later, I am finished and start the Burb, however, same problem exists. Decided to check out the carburetor and found that a fire started and melted the connectors. I will post this in a new thread.

Anyway, I have gone through and replaced the distributor cap, wires, coil, fuel filter and pump. I can lay rubber now. Not sure if I really needed the fuel pump, but it was 18 years old and maybe would have gone soon anyway......

On black in fuel filter it can be dirty fuel or black from bad fuel pump.
I have say bad fuel pumps filll filter with black stuff.
Recheck fuel filter a couple times after driving it.