Bravada 2000 intake manifold

HI
Ok looking for help
Ever thing was fine with the car ran well before I started work on the car apart from the intake manifold gasket was leaking coolant out side the engine
I did my intake manifold gasket, and when I finished it was running rough at lower rpm and code P0300 can up
Fuel pressure was ok at 60psi I think that’s ok anyway?
I changed my
Spark plugs
Spark plug leads
Distributor cap
And rotor
Even had a different coil
And still did the same thing
So I thought to myself I must have done some thing wrong so I got another gasket set and redid every thing again made sure every thing was torque down right ,
And when I finished again the same thing ,code P0300 comes up and it runs rough at lower RPM I can drive it ,it runs(but roughly) but every now and then the service light flashes and code P0300 comes up

Any help would be great I am about to pull all my hair out and I do not have to much left as it is :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::swear:

Alex

Double check the spark plug wire routing. Very common mistake to swap cylinders 1 & 3 on the cap, which will make the engine run poorly.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss58/cwhook/96newer43Lplugwires.jpg

hi thanks
was thinking that to but check and they are in the right order
is there a way to check to see if 1 of my jets are blocked ? a easy way that is lol even like i say before i started this every thing was working fine apart from leak that is

Is P0300 the only DTC that's showing up? P0300 is "random cylinder misfire" which means more than one cylinder is misfiring. Does your scan tool have access to the misfire history file? If so, what cylinders are misfiring?

Hi
i have a Actron PocketScan Code Reader CP9125 ,
and to be turthfull i just know how to get codes, do not know what or how to do anything esle even if it does anything esle lol
as for the code its shows 2 codes both P0300 think 1 P0300 is because it has happened and the other Other P0300 is that it's still happening or some thing

Alex

might have missed the distributor by a tooth when you re-installed it.

If the distributor is off a tooth it will set P1345.

That's an entry level code reader. When it comes to diagnostics, it tells you what "ball park" you're in, but not what section or seat ;)

Did you replace all of those parts at the same time as the intake gasket, or when it idled rough after replacing the gasket?

P0300 through P0306 all have to do with engine misfire. 90% of the time it's caused by a fault in the secondary ignition system: Spark plugs, plug wires, coil wire, distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil, all of the things you just replaced. These things are real fussy when it comes to secondary ignition parts, what brand of parts did you use?

Another thing that can set a P0300 is low fuel pressure and/or low volume. Make sure the fuel filter is not restricted. Key ON, engine OFF, fuel pump running: pressure must be 60psi to 66psi and must remain above 55psi for 3 to 5 minutes after the fuel pump shuts off.

Check Not Only the order of the wires on the Distributor cap, but follow each wire all the way to each plug. Once you get down there around the steering box, the wires can get hard to see and follow, same for the other side.

Did you use an AC-Delco cap? It is not impossible that you got a bad cap. Other brand name caps simply won't cut it. I would also double check the Plug gaps.

As a last resort, try putting your old cap back on. Although many things can cause a P0300 Code, My experience with this code is almost always with the cap.

Hi
Thanks for all the help
I started having the problem after I changed the gasket so I changed every thing 1 by 1
As for the part they are from advanced auto parts after market parts but what are the chances that the new parts would do the same as the old parts so do not think it's them or am I wrong?

I have started to think it's the spark looked at it again and its more orange than blue so may be a weak coil? Or Ignition Control Module?
Going to get an inline spark tester as soon as I can, and meter out the coil

Alex

The chances that a replacement part has the same problem as the old one is extremely slim. Not only does it get expensive when you guess, but you run the risk of either introducing a new problem, or installing a faulty part, that's where proper diagnosis comes into the picture.

If the problem showed up after the intake gasket replacement, the chances of the ignition coil or module going bad during the gasket replacement is also extremely slim. I'd start by looking for a vacuum leak. One of the gaskets may not be sealing properly, (including the plenum gasket). Make sure all of the vacuum lines are good, and connected properly. Double check the fuel injector electrical connector: the pins and sockets are fragile. Also, check for blue, not orange, spark at all of the spark plugs with the inline spark tester. Post your results. Don't throw parts at it until we get it diagnosed ;)

Hi
ok it may be afew days before i can get to the store and get the tester
good thing i have my bike LOL

i'll post here when i have tested the plugs

thanks again for help

Alex

Hi
Ok here I go again lol
Got the spark tester and had a good spark
So went to auto store to see if they could pull any thing from the computer, but just same thing I had P0300,
We test the ignition module while I was there that tested ok as well, we tried a new coil just incase no different,


HHHHeeeeeellllpppp lol

Alex

Spayed throttle body cleaner all around and did not change the engine any

Did you use AC Delco plugs # 41-993 with a gap of .060" if not, what brand and part number did you use?

ok i think i may have it
i took the T/B and every thing off ,pull each injector leg out of there holes and put them all on a bit of paper ,put the fuel lines back in and turned the engine over ,
out of the 6 injectors only 4 seem to be working 2 did not have any gas coming out of them
would this account for my problems ?
if so can they be clean or do i have to replace them ?

thanks Alex

Absolutely could be the cause. What cylinders were not working?

also can i remove the injectors and swap them around just to make sure that its not a wiring problem

2 and 3 do not seem to running

Injectors 2 and 3 get their power from different places...not the problem. The ECM grounds the injectors to fire them; grounding is done on separate circuits by the ECM, each injector has its own separate wire...not the problem.

There could be a problem with the pins or sockets in the injector connector, or faulty, dirty, or restricted poppet valves in #2 and #3 cylinders. I'd check the pins and sockets real close, make sure the terminals in "C" "D" "G" and "H" are not damaged.

Ok so turning the engine over i would not get gas out of 2&3 anyway ?
i'll take a look at the pins again and an even closer look at the connector lol

thanks Alex

Injectors 2 and 3 get their power from different circuits. There are 6 power wires to the injectors, all pink wires, they get power from 3 different places on the underhood fuse panel. If that were the problem, (broken power wires) injectors 1, 2, 3 and 5 wouldn't work. The only thing common to both 2 and 3 injectors is the connector, and it would have to be two bent pins. When you remove the electrical connector it exposes 12 pins. Each injector has two pins that connect into the sockets in the connector.

ok think i may have got it wrong it seems it's 2&5
so could i have put the injectors into the wrong holes?
if so do you have a diagram of which injector goes into which hole ?

Alex

Cylinder 2 is the front cylinder on the passenger side. Cylinder 5 is the rear cylinder on the driver side. The fuel lines won't reach, you can't screw those two up. On the side of the black injector housing, near the top, the cylinders they feed are numbered.

If 2 and 5 are not squirting fuel, it could be a power problem as they both get power from the same wire. With the ignition in the RUN position, check all 6 pink wires in the connector for battery voltage. Pay special attention to terminals "B" and "H".

Remove the fuel pump relay before turning the ignition ON.

i have voltage to the wires
it's starting to rain here again so am going to have to call it a night
i want to thank you for all your help it's been great if you can think of any thing please let me know i'll start back on it tomorrow if the rain stops

Thanks again alex

RAIN? I wish... I just plowed out 6" of SNOW off the drive! Got 11" from the storm on Wednesday! Running out of places to put it.

If you have voltage to all of the pink wires in the injector connector, the next step is to manually open injectors 2 and 5 and see if they spray fuel. First, are you sure it's injectors 2 and 5 that are not spraying? (Front cylinder on passenger side and rear cylinder on driver side.) Next, are you comfortable with making and using jumper wires?

RAIN? I wish... I just plowed out 6" of SNOW off the drive! Got 11" from the storm on Wednesday! Running out of places to put it.



And thats why I live in florida lol

I will check again tomorrow when it's light and make sure
noproblem with jumper wires
beleave it or not I am a maintenance tech lol I used to repair CNC machines ,
guess I just suck when it comes to cars lol

also can i remove the injectors and swap them around just to make sure that its not a wiring problem

The injectors are fired sequentially along with the firing order of the engine. To swap them around, you would need to swap the injectors in the injector housing and the poppets in the intake manifold. Lotta unnecessary work, there is an easier way.

Hi
Ok I manually triggered the injectors by way of jumper wire and some crap came out of 2&5 ,so I then connected the injectors back in and turned the engine over and I was now getting gas coming out of all the injectors ,
Put every thing back together started her up NO CODES!! And ran smooth again took her for a run around the block ran great and no codes
So it was injector 2&5 blocked

Now I just have the front wheel bearings to do and the steering rack to replace LOL

Thanks for all your help

Alex

Good piece of work! Nice job.

When it comes time to get the bearings, don't get cheapies. BCA National and Timken are both good choices.