2001 GC EX 3.8 175K Mi - Water Pump R&R Trick

Just did an R&R on my water pump and used a non-intuitive trick to get it out easily. I thought I read it on this forum but after searching, can't find it. It is an excellent trick so thought I would post it. Change out water pump:

1. Remove passenger wheel.
2. Remove plastic cover which reveals crank pulley and most of water pump.
3. Remove Serp Belt (I have posted a good trick for this)
4. Drain coolant
5. Remove 3 Water Pump Pulley to Water pump assembly bolts
6. Remove 5 water pump bolts (10 mm). Need to manipulate the now loose pulley as needed
to get to each bolt. The bolts are kind of small so watch for snapping. I had one that was stuck, used lots of heat, WD40, and patience.
7. TRICK - water pump does not have enough clearance to come out so go up top. Loosen (do not remove) the 3 motor mount bolts (15 mm)on the passenger side near the air filter assembly. Just a couple of turns and my water pump literally fell out. Couple more turns gave me enough to re-install. Really just 4 turns (at least for me).

I will leave to the readers to re-install with reverse. Apologies if this is a repeat. I did not invent this, just used it successfully.

Heard it before but maybe not on this forum. Thanks and keep those tips coming.

I recently did an engine on a 2001 Caravan, and I had a harder time getting the engine out than in... The trick was to remove the water pump and Power steering pump, THEN pull it out, but I have removed that type of water pump before and it JUST has enough clearance to come out after the pulley is unbolted and pushed to the side and the water pump bolts themselves are removed... I never had to remove the motor mount bolts on that van or others that I had worked on...

If you had to remove or loosen motor mount bolts, then your motor mounts may be sagging (just because they are solid and not "loose" doesn't always mean that they are good)... Sagging motor mounts can hurt the drivetrain, particularly the axles and/or bearings in the tranny...

Just my food for thought... Sorry for intruding... :)

Thanks for the info. Sounds like you have done a few of these. Including this one I have done exactly one. I was kind of thinking that way too. I was wondering : Is there anyway to determine if the MM's are bad. They are kind of expensive. The front one (round one) is def sitting near the bottom of the circle but, honestly, I am not sure what it is supposed to look like. The car is 10 years old with 175k mi so . . . things are wearing out. Thanks in advance for any insights.

They are expensive, but the big one on the passenger side is the easiest and is about $55 or so... If you have time and patience, all the others are round types and usually they sell the inserts for $17 each, I believe... Forget about the one in the back of the tranny, that's a PITA and you're better off waiting until you need to change the tranny, LOL... It may be worth having a machine shop press them in too; I usually change the whole motor with the bracket (which, of course, is more expensive by far) because I changed one of those inserts once, and it was hell getting it outta there(AND in there)... Granted, I was working on the ground using tools out of a bucket, so I didn't use a press, or any air tools, so if you plan it out, it could be much cheaper and easier to replace them than I am saying...

Truthfully, you CAN hurt the axles and whatnot, but if you're not going to keep the car long or suspect something else more expensive is gonna go soon, they leave them be or just change the easiest one... I mean, you have already changed the water pump, so if it feels alright, then let go... If you have a lot of vibrations at idle in drive, then you may want to change at least the one big one on the passenger side...

For the record, just go to autozone and have them pull the motor mount in question, and see how it looks in comparison to yours... Also, on those round mounts, I have stuffed cut pieces of heater hose to kinda give them more life... I'm not rich by any means, so although I speak of what is the "right thing to do", I don't change every part for a new part myself... I just can't complain if I have to suffer the consequence... I fix everything from the engine to tranny to everything else myself, so no matter what, if I abuse a vehicle, it still costs me whatever the parts cost... When you have to pay someone else to fix your car, then you're better off taking precautionary measures...

Hope that helps
Mike

When I did my 2003 I had to drop my motor a bit just like Migs Auto did.

Just out of curiosity, which mount would be bad that would cause that? It would have to be one that when it weakens the engine tilts down on the driver's side and up on the passenger side, am I right?

I have no idea; I'm not there... Depends on the angle... I don't know which way he had to take it out... I never experienced that before... Mine come right out. I may have had to pry the engine away from the body a hair or 2, but nothing that would constitute removal of the motor mount... I'm trying to remember what else was there... Maybe an a/c line??? I'm gonna check the factory service manual and see how it says to remove it...

Unfortunately, I cannot save and post the pictures yet... Notice what I highlighted in BOLD lettering...

WATER PUMP - 3.3/3.8L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a die-cast aluminum body
and a plastic impeller. It bolts directly to the timing
chain case cover, using a rubber seal for sealing (Fig.
27). It is driven by the accessory drive belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cylinder
head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove the accessory drive belt shield.
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL)
(4) Remove water pump pulley bolts (Fig. 27).
NOTE: To remove the water pump pulley, it MUST
first be positioned between water pump housing
and drive hub. The pulley can then be removed with
the water pump assembly.
(5) Rotate pulley until openings in pulley align
with water pump drive hub spokes (Fig. 28). Move
pulley inward between pump housing and hub (Fig.
28).
(6) Position pulley to allow access to water pump
mounting bolts. Remove water pump mounting bolts
(Fig. 29).
(7) Remove water pump with the pulley loosely
positioned between hub and the pump body.
(8) Remove and discard the seal.
Fig. 27 Water Pump - 3.3/3.8L Engine
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - PULLEY - WATER PUMP
3 - BOLT - PULLEY
4 - BOLT - WATER PUMP
5 - SEAL - WATER PUMP
Fig. 28 Water Pump Pulley Positioning
1 - HUB - WATER PUMP
2 - PULLEY - WATER PUMP
7 - 34 ENGINE RS
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)
(9) Clean seal groove and sealing surfaces on
pump and timing chain case cover. Take care not to
scratch or gouge sealing surfaces.
CLEANING
Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary.
INSPECTION
Replace the water pump if it has any of the following
defects.
(1) Damage or cracks on the pump body.
(2) Coolant leaks; this will be evident by a wet
stream of coolant running down the pump body and
components below. A thin stain below the weep hole
reservoir slot (Fig. 30) is considered normal operation.
(3) Impeller rubs inside of chain case cover.
(4) Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.
NOTE: A weepage stain that is black, brown, or grey
is considered normal, if it is dry. If the weep
appears wet; pressure test the cooling system at
15–18 psi and observe the weep area. If weep area
remains unchanged, do not replace the water pump
for this condition. Replace the water pump, if a
steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the
weep hole/reservoir slot (Fig. 30) (shaft seal failure).
Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before
replacing water pump.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new seal into water pump housing
groove (Fig. 31).
NOTE: The water pump pulley MUST be positioned
loosely between the pump housing and drive hub
BEFORE water pump installation.
(2) Position the water pump pulley loosely between
pump housing and drive hub (Fig. 28).
(3) Install water pump and pulley to the timing
chain case cover (Fig. 27). Tighten water pump bolts
to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Position pulley on water pump hub. Install
bolts and tighten to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 27).
Fig. 29 Water Pump Bolts - 3.3/3.8L Engine (Shown
Without Pulley)
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - BOLTS
Fig. 30 Water Pump Inspection - 3.3/3.8L Engine
Fig. 31 Water Pump Seal
1 - WATER PUMP HOUSING
2 - SEAL
3 - IMPELLER
RS ENGINE 7 - 35
WATER PUMP - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
(5) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(6) Install the accessory drive belt. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION)
(7) Install drive belt shield.
(8) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE -
2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The 2.4L engine uses a metal tube to connect the
engine block to the lower radiator hose and heater
return (Fig. 32). The tube has an O-ring for block to
tube sealing and bolts attach the tube to the engine
block.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose to access the hose
connections at the inlet tube.
(3) Remove radiator lower (Fig. 7) and heater
hoses from the inlet tube (Fig. 33).
(4) Remove the two fasteners that hold the inlet
tube to the block.
(5) Rotate tube while removing the tube from the
engine block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect the O-ring for damage before installing
the tube into the cylinder block (Fig. 32).
(2) Lube O-ring with coolant and install inlet tube
into the cylinder block opening (Fig. 32).
(3) Install the two inlet tube fasteners and tighten
to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect the radiator lower hose (Fig. 7) and
heater hose to inlet tube (Fig. 33).
(5) Install the radiator upper hose.
(6) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE -
3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist and remove the belt
splash shield.
(3) Remove the radiator lower hose from inlet tube
(Fig. 34).
(4) Remove the oil cooler outlet/heater return hose
from inlet tube (only if equipped with engine oil
cooler) (Fig. 35).
(5) Remove the inlet tube bolts (Fig. 36).
(6) Remove the inlet tube (Fig. 36). Discard the
O-ring seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the inlet tube O-ring sealing surfaces on
the timing cover housing and tube.
(2) Apply Mopart Dielectric Grease or equivalent
to the O-ring before installation.
(3) Position new O-ring seal on inlet tube (Fig. 36).

So basically, you remove the pulley, rotate it and then push it back on the water pump shaft itself... Then you loosen the bolts around the water pump by holding the pulley out of the way... Once all the bolts are loose, then you take the pump off WITH the pulley...

I remember now because the first time I did a water pump, I did the whole engine at the same time... That when I realized that you have to remove the water pump AND power steering pump FIRST BEFORE you pull the engine... So when I figured that out, I left the P/S pump and water pump off... When I bolted on the water pump, I had already bolted in the engine mounts and tranny bolts; the engine was "in"... I realized that I could not get the pulley on; so, removing the motor mount again would have been an option... Then I figured by the shape of the pulley that I needed to put them on at the same time and all worked out without having the motor loose...

LOL, I just thought I would reiterate something from the manual...

Don't forget to torque the water pump bolts to 105 inch pounds with the smallest torquewrench possible!