bleeding a cluth slave clyliner

I got 1984 ford f-150 300 inline 6 4 wheel drive. when bleeding the clutch slave clyliner does the rod at end of cluth slave clylinder need to be pushed into the slave clylinder with bleeder value open? then close allowing no air to enter?then pump clutch and and hold clutch,while someone open bleed value,letting air and fluid out, making sure clutch pedel not being moved while bleeding , then helper closes bleed valuve. I did this 4-5 times
, clutch pedel is still soft, spongy,.There is no air in the master clclinder, . Also the several time I bleed the slave clylinder , some times air and fluid comes out, sometimes fluid only, sometimes air only. Can you think of something for me to try? thank you ed Also should i try too put some fluid in the slave clylinder to start with , or start out dry and let fluid enter from master clutch cylinder ?

I have good luck GRAVITY bleeding them. Fill your master cylinder and leave the top off so you don't create a vacuum lock. Loosen the bleeder on the slave cylinder. The fluid should start flowing shortly, if not pump the clutch pedal a time or two. Once the fluid starts flowing, let atleast 12 ounces flow through never letting the master cylinder go dry. Tighten the bleeder on the slave cylinder and top up the master cylinder, then go for a drive. If the clutch is releasing but doesn't seem quite right, repeat the above. You don't even need a helper for this procedure.

I have good luck GRAVITY bleeding them. Fill your master cylinder and leave the top off so you don't create a vacuum lock. Loosen the bleeder on the slave cylinder. The fluid should start flowing shortly, if not pump the clutch pedal a time or two. Once the fluid starts flowing, let atleast 12 ounces flow through never letting the master cylinder go dry. Tighten the bleeder on the slave cylinder and top up the master cylinder, then go for a drive. If the clutch is releasing but doesn't seem quite right, repeat the above. You don't even need a helper for this procedure.
thanks I try that today. also the master clylinder has an exspandable rubber washer under the lid, do I fill the master clylinder up with the rubber gasket compressed in lid,or expanded ,hanging down in lid? Also is that rubber gasket just to sell lid from leaking,or or also seal air from getting under gasket? thanks so muchh ed

thanks I try that today. also the master clylinder has an exspandable rubber washer under the lid, do I fill the master clylinder up with the rubber gasket compressed in lid,or expanded ,hanging down in lid? Also is that rubber gasket just to sell lid from leaking,or or also seal air from getting under gasket? thanks so muchh ed

During the bleeding process, leave both the lid and the rubber washer OFF or you will create a vacuum lock. When the bleeding process is finished, have the fluid level so the rubber washer will fit in there in it's natural expanded state. Well, I guess the rubber washer is to seal out dirt and moisture and allow the fluid to work during the normal braking process. I see no reason for sealing air out from getting in there.

I have good luck GRAVITY bleeding them. Fill your master cylinder and leave the top off so you don't create a vacuum lock. Loosen the bleeder on the slave cylinder. The fluid should start flowing shortly, if not pump the clutch pedal a time or two. Once the fluid starts flowing, let atleast 12 ounces flow through never letting the master cylinder go dry. Tighten the bleeder on the slave cylinder and top up the master cylinder, then go for a drive. If the clutch is releasing but doesn't seem quite right, repeat the above. You don't even need a helper for this procedure.

i'll say to gravity bleeding it but after that i would bleed slave cyl just to
make sure no more air is in it if you have someone there to pump clutch and hold until you tighten bleeder up.

when i went out this morning , to check my slave clylinder , i notice the slae clylinder had losen up after setting all night. Like maybe it had got air in it ,setting over night ??? The slave clylinder was tight night before ,in other words it had pressure on it wherre it wasnt lose, then the next morning it was lose, like i had open the bleed value, but i didnt . he had no pressure on the rob that pushes ??? need help

when i went out this morning , to check my slave clylinder , i notice the slae clylinder had losen up after setting all night. Like maybe it had got air in it ,setting over night ??? The slave clylinder was tight night before ,in other words it had pressure on it wherre it wasnt lose, then the next morning it was lose, like i had open the bleed value, but i didnt . he had no pressure on the rob that pushes ??? need help

How is the fluid level in the MASTER cylinder after this?

when i went out this morning , to check my slave clylinder , i notice the slae clylinder had losen up after setting all night. Like maybe it had got air in it ,setting over night ??? The slave clylinder was tight night before ,in other words it had pressure on it wherre it wasnt lose, then the next morning it was lose, like i had open the bleed value, but i didnt . he had no pressure on the rob that pushes ??? need help
Also when i push the clutch down, it goes half way down , before i start to fell any pressure on my foot.??????

Also when i push the clutch down, it goes half way down , before i start to fell any pressure on my foot.??????
aLSO SOME PEOPLE SAY PUMP CLUTCH ,SOME SAY NEVER PUMP , JUST PUSH DOWN ??? DONT KNOW WHO TO BELEIVE

aLSO SOME PEOPLE SAY PUMP CLUTCH ,SOME SAY NEVER PUMP , JUST PUSH DOWN ??? DONT KNOW WHO TO BELEIVE there right you can pump or just push clutch pedal down after opening the bleeder make sure it's bleeders tight before letting off the clutch. if it did like you said it may be your slave cylinder? what made you think it was the clutch master cyl anyway?

there right you can pump or just push clutch pedal down after opening the bleeder make sure it's bleeders tight before letting off the clutch. if it did like you said it may be your slave cylinder? what made you think it was the clutch master cyl anyway?
the orginal promlem was last week the master cyclinder push rod broke
so i got a rod installed it , and for month i have noticed i barely can get it in gear to change gears. Then thatpush rod broke on master cllyclinder, and afetring installing it, i still cant get to change gears because the pedal issoft now
i bleed and bleed. I think the slave clylinder been going bad all along and i noticed by not vchanging gears, then the rod in master broke, and fixed that, now this morning even have less pedal it soft. anyway i sent to town just now try another new slae clyclinder

the orginal promlem was last week the master cyclinder push rod broke
so i got a rod installed it , and for month i have noticed i barely can get it in gear to change gears. Then thatpush rod broke on master cllyclinder, and afetring installing it, i still cant get to change gears because the pedal issoft now
i bleed and bleed. I think the slave clylinder been going bad all along and i noticed by not vchanging gears, then the rod in master broke, and fixed that, now this morning even have less pedal it soft. anyway i sent to town just now try another new slae clyclinder
yah the slave cyl most time it go's bad first thats why i ask about why you thought it was clutch master cyl?

yah the slave cyl most time it go's bad first thats why i ask about why you thought it was clutch master cyl?
ok same thing wasnt slave cylinder, maybe its the master cylinder i put new master on last year worked great but like i said for about moth now i noticed i can bare ly change gears again, then the rob broke. maybe 2 dirob broke because master cllinder got air somewhere. that would explain why it been gettig worse for a month, before rod broke. that rod in the master cylinder i got the leakage adjusted as far to push out, as it can go,and still hook to clutch bracelet under the dash above the gas pedal. Maybe i I need to to shorten the leakage ,instead of entending it ???

did you inspect the hose going to slave cyl? also now if you pump pedal will it shift easier by pumping it before shifting to another gear?

did you inspect the hose going to slave cyl? also now if you pump pedal will it shift easier by pumping it before shifting to another gear?
I can get in truck not running and pump pedal and have 1/2 pedal but not hard ,almost hard. It pumps enough to change gears while the motor not running. but if the truck is running i can pump pump and almost get enough pedal to change while truck is motor is running, but can't get enough to change while motor running. So if i cut truck off i change gears , then start it with clutch pushed in., but it tryed to takes off, even with clutch pushed to floor board ???

I can get in truck not running and pump pedal and have 1/2 pedal but not hard ,almost hard. It pumps enough to change gears while the motor not running. but if the truck is running i can pump pump and almost get enough pedal to change while truck is motor is running, but can't get enough to change while motor running. So if i cut truck off i change gears , then start it with clutch pushed in., but it tryed to takes off, even with clutch pushed to floor board ???
I tryed again this morning, i have to pimp lot to get little over half pedad, but it still not enough to change gears when i motor running, the hose i guess coming from the master clinder is high pres. well the master clinder fluid level dont goes down so, i assume the hose is not leaking. also no fluid on the hose . where could the air be?? it got to have air or it wouldnt pump up some ,after you pump the clutch 50 times ????

I can get in truck not running and pump pedal and have 1/2 pedal but not hard ,almost hard. It pumps enough to change gears while the motor not running. but if the truck is running i can pump pump and almost get enough pedal to change while truck is motor is running, but can't get enough to change while motor running. So if i cut truck off i change gears , then start it with clutch pushed in., but it tryed to takes off, even with clutch pushed to floor board ???
Alos the push rod on the master clinder has bend and broke off 2 times in one year. also last year i had a new clutch pressureplate and throw out bearing put in what could be wrong ? Maybe the master clinder letting ait behind the plunger inside the master clinder ???

Alos the push rod on the master clinder has bend and broke off 2 times in one year. also last year i had a new clutch pressureplate and throw out bearing put in what could be wrong ? Maybe the master clinder letting ait behind the plunger inside the master clinder ??? lets start over when you bleed slave cyl are you getting pure fluid or does it like air and fluid if it's pure fluid then i would think pressure plate like i say are you getting pure fluid on bleeding slave cyl?

I can get in truck not running and pump pedal and have 1/2 pedal but not hard ,almost hard. It pumps enough to change gears while the motor not running. but if the truck is running i can pump pump and almost get enough pedal to change while truck is motor is running, but can't get enough to change while motor running. So if i cut truck off i change gears , then start it with clutch pushed in., but it tryed to takes off, even with clutch pushed to floor board ???
ok I got 3/4 clutch pedal now stll wont release while motor running. also now i have lost the spacer that goes on the slave clinder ,there at the bracket. does anyone know where i can get one? also does that spacer go in front of metal bracket on slave clinder ,or behind the meat bracket there at slace cllinder??

On a clutch slave clylinder , is the fluid just behind the plumger or complely inside the slave clylinder ? This thing driving me nuts help

Also the fluid line going from the master clutch to the slave cylinder the fiiting on the end of that lines, are they just fitting/ , or are they some kind of check values??

Also the fluid line going from the master clutch to the slave cylinder the fiiting on the end of that lines, are they just fitting/ , or are they some kind of check values?? UPDATE
The master cylinder was letting air escape, also the the fittings on the fluid hose on end at master clylinder,and at slave clylinder [ARE] just FITTING .

Also what was breaking my push rod on master clylinder was = The clucth fork on bell houseing ,when u push pedal down the clutch fork will move and botton OUT, on the bell houseing. I really need a new one ,but i just took the old out and grind some of it , so it wouldn't bottom OUT. Also the top of the clutch fork had been hitting on something ,maybe the pressure plate, but anyway i grind some metal off also on the top and made it smooth.Probbaly new clutch fork would even make it better, but i didnt really have the money ,so i fixed mine good enough ! hope this help SOMEONE . I worked several days on this, not one mechinic told anywhere told me to check the clutch fork to see if it was bottomng OUT when you push pedal in. The clutch fork easy to get out .Thanks for your suggestions, ed

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Yes it's normal. I did for a day or two.