spark plugs

i have an 2006 silverado 4.3 need to replace the plugs. anyone recomend .thanks

i have an 2006 silverado 4.3 need to replace the plugs. anyone recomend .thanks

AC delco PLUGS
Bosh and c4 and other brand are junk and do not work right in GM engines.

Always check the latest AC delco spark plug book for right plug and gap.
A lot of times the no and gap is changed from OEM plugs and gap.

How many mile on your plugs?

HALO spark plugs. one and only plug confirmed by government research to improve gas mileage.
they are pricey at around $8 a pop. so it's personal decision. i had them in my Silvie for around 60K miles w-out any issues, and changed just cuz they are warranted for 50K. not a sign of wear.

AC delco PLUGS
Bosh and c4 and other brand are junk and do not work right in GM engines.

Always check the latest AC delco spark plug book for right plug and gap.
A lot of times the no and gap is changed from OEM plugs and gap.

How many mile on your plugs?

i got a 110,000 on the original plugs, i think its time to replace.

HALO spark plugs. one and only plug confirmed by government research to improve gas mileage.
they are pricey at around $8 a pop. so it's personal decision. i had them in my Silvie for around 60K miles w-out any issues, and changed just cuz they are warranted for 50K. not a sign of wear.

Hello Ukrkoz.
In my neck of the woods central USA Mark twain land.
I have never run across the Halo brand plugs.
Can you give a little more info on them.
Are they made by Halo or a branch of another brand?
Old or new company?
Do you order them or find local?
Are they Platinum or regular plugs?
Thanks MT-2500

i got a 110,000 on the original plugs, i think its time to replace.

Yes for sure 110K is time for New plugs.

The life of a spark plug depend on a drivers habits.
Heavy foot tends to be harder on plug life.
Beside the better mileage after a set of new plugs.
Some engines if left in there to long the plug shell will rust up and or the threads stick in head letting or causing the plug to twist off in the head or plull head threads out with it or even some I have saw the gap burn up to very wide gap and throw a extra hots spark in the cylinder and burn hole in piston.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

8 bucks for plugs?? thats cheap

Hello Ukrkoz.
In my neck of the woods central USA Mark twain land.
I have never run across the Halo brand plugs.
Can you give a little more info on them.
Are they made by Halo or a branch of another brand?
Old or new company?
Do you order them or find local?
Are they Platinum or regular plugs?
Thanks MT-2500

i have worked in the sticks Mark Twain part of the country for 19 mths, and that was the best car nuts land i have ever been to.

anyhow, HALo spark plug is made by Brisk. this company is prolly one of the oldest spark plug manufacturers in the world. they were originally stationed in Chech republic and started in 1928, i believe. They were, last time i checked, official plugs company for VW and Lambo racing teams.

HALo is a patented design, LGS Brisk. has full crown on the top. just like angels halo. bosch was trying to get close to it, but ended with open crown on the top, due to patent laws. they can't close crown completely, as this is Brisk design.
mine were made in Chech republic. they were, also, supposed to start manufacturing new series, with equivalent to iridium, as corrosion resistant metal.
Ontario government did full blown research on spark plugs, back in time, for their fleet of street cleaning vehicles. they had it statistically proven, that HALo improves mpg and Hp. not by much, but times thousands of vehicles and vehicle hours on the street, it added up. so no, it's not 10-20%. but it's there.
you can't buy HALOs in store. it's online only. i bought from that guy for several yrs. he's kosher to buy from.

http://www.lsgbrisk.com/

well, now they say that HALOs are made in TX. who knows. maybe they are now. site looks quite different from what i was used to.

found them:

http://www.brisk.biz/page.php?page=2800

that's the original manufacturer.

ones i bought online here were 48 000 miles warranted. looks like they have platinum ones now.

1932. i was off by 4 yrs.

2001
• Supply of spark plugs to OEM Lamborghini Motori Marina
• Supply of spark plugs for small agricultural machinery to OEM SAGEM (JCAE)
• Supply of spark plugs to OEM AUTOVAZ
• Supply of spark plugs to OEM GAZ
• The company is ranked among the "CZECH 100 BEST"

2002
• Commencement of production of the second-generation BRISK Premium LGS spark plugs
• Supply of sensors to VW

2003
• ISO/TS 16949 certification

2004
• Extension of product range with BRISK IRIDIUM PREMIUM RACING spark plugs
• Supply of spark plugs to OEMs Renault-Dacia, GM, SEAT
• Supply of sensors to OEM VOLVO POWERTRAIN

http://www.brisk.biz/news.php?page=1

i have worked in the sticks Mark Twain part of the country for 19 mths, and that was the best car nuts land i have ever been to.

anyhow, HALo spark plug is made by Brisk. this company is prolly one of the oldest spark plug manufacturers in the world. they were originally stationed in Chech republic and started in 1928, i believe. They were, last time i checked, official plugs company for VW and Lambo racing teams.

HALo is a patented design, LGS Brisk. has full crown on the top. just like angels halo. bosch was trying to get close to it, but ended with open crown on the top, due to patent laws. they can't close crown completely, as this is Brisk design.
mine were made in Chech republic. they were, also, supposed to start manufacturing new series, with equivalent to iridium, as corrosion resistant metal.
Ontario government did full blown research on spark plugs, back in time, for their fleet of street cleaning vehicles. they had it statistically proven, that HALo improves mpg and Hp. not by much, but times thousands of vehicles and vehicle hours on the street, it added up. so no, it's not 10-20%. but it's there.
you can't buy HALOs in store. it's online only. i bought from that guy for several yrs. he's kosher to buy from.

http://www.lsgbrisk.com/

well, now they say that HALOs are made in TX. who knows. maybe they are now. site looks quite different from what i was used to.

found them:

http://www.brisk.biz/page.php?page=2800

that's the original manufacturer.

ones i bought online here were 48 000 miles warranted. looks like they have platinum ones now.

1932. i was off by 4 yrs.

2001
• Supply of spark plugs to OEM Lamborghini Motori Marina
• Supply of spark plugs for small agricultural machinery to OEM SAGEM (JCAE)
• Supply of spark plugs to OEM AUTOVAZ
• Supply of spark plugs to OEM GAZ
• The company is ranked among the "CZECH 100 BEST"

2002
• Commencement of production of the second-generation BRISK Premium LGS spark plugs
• Supply of sensors to VW

2003
• ISO/TS 16949 certification

2004
• Extension of product range with BRISK IRIDIUM PREMIUM RACING spark plugs
• Supply of spark plugs to OEMs Renault-Dacia, GM, SEAT
• Supply of sensors to OEM VOLVO POWERTRAIN

http://www.brisk.biz/news.php?page=1

Thanks for the good info on them.
And web links.
That corrosion protection may be a very good deal.
I have had some plugs with shell rusted or ate threw and twisted off when you try-ed to change them.
The old fords with the larger plugs were a bear cat on that.

no, no, not that corrosion. electrodes corrode from the gap spark. that's why they continuously go for harder metals, less prone to arc corrosion. when arc corrodes metal off, gap increases. spark loses its power, due to ever increasing gap.
with HALOs, gap is causing one large ball of discharge. i could not see any major erosion on crown electrode after 60+K miles on them.
i am aware only of one better design in conventional plugs, Krupa plug, but he's an ass and never got it worked out into production. patented and it's on ice. patented any possible configurations, so it's untouchable.
there's a spark plug that pre-ignites fuel inside of it, and then shoots fire out into cc. not sure, how long will that work, considering how fast nozzle can get plugged with carbon deposits.

no, no, not that corrosion. electrodes corrode from the gap spark. that's why they continuously go for harder metals, less prone to arc corrosion. when arc corrodes metal off, gap increases. spark loses its power, due to ever increasing gap.
with HALOs, gap is causing one large ball of discharge. i could not see any major erosion on crown electrode after 60+K miles on them.
i am aware only of one better design in conventional plugs, Krupa plug, but he's an ass and never got it worked out into production. patented and it's on ice. patented any possible configurations, so it's untouchable.
there's a spark plug that pre-ignites fuel inside of it, and then shoots fire out into cc. not sure, how long will that work, considering how fast nozzle can get plugged with carbon deposits.

Thanks for the correction on corrision.
Looks like I got that mixed up.
Thanks for the info MT

GM vehicle = AC plugs.

All you have to do is get online, go to the autozone or advance auto web site, plug in your information and it will tell you the part # of the spark plug. Or go to the ROCK Auto web site.

AC plugs work.... don't waste your time with all the other magic potion stuff.

GM vehicle = AC plugs.

All you have to do is get online, go to the autozone or advance auto web site, plug in your information and it will tell you the part # of the spark plug. Or go to the ROCK Auto web site.

AC plugs work.... don't waste your time with all the other magic potion stuff.

I went with origonal ac delco gaped at .60. one hell of a difference on take off.

I went with origonal ac delco gaped at .60. one hell of a difference on take off.

Always check the latest AC-Delco spark plug book.
A lot of times the origional spark plugs no. and gap will be updated/changed.
Besides take off the MPG should come up to.
Thanks for posting back how it went.
Good Luck

Always check the latest AC-Delco spark plug book.
A lot of times the origional spark plugs no. and gap will be updated/changed.
Besides take off the MPG should come up to.
Thanks for posting back how it went.
Good Luck

well if i got 120,000 out of these delco, why not put the same number ac delco back in. im happy with the results.. thanks guys..

well if i got 120,000 out of these delco, why not put the same number ac delco back in. im happy with the results.. thanks guys..

That is your choice.
But Gm has a lot of updated and improved spark plug no. and gaps on a lot of there engines and for the best most of the time.
Like they say best to go by the good book.
Good luck with them.

Did the new AC delco spark book show a change from your OEM plugs or still the same no. and also gap.?

I am changing the plugs on my 2002 Silvy HD 6.0, and since I have put 93,000 miles on this set, I figured I would replace them with whatever came out. Turns out AC/Delco plug and the only marking on it is "12". (And "Made in USA"). Nothing else anywhere. I can't find the AC #12 plug at any of the local parts stores, or the Autozone and O'Reilly websites. The show a P/N 41-110, is that that the same? Crazy thing is, the owners manual specifies only 2 plugs, an NGK P/N, and a Denso P/N. (Why only 2 Japanese plugs and no GM/AC Delco???). Anyway, the plug I pulled looks perfect, not too hot or cold. May even be the originals, (Truck had 97K on it when I bought it, now at 190,000). Gap is worn very wide, .100", still running good, with occasional miss at idle. So where do I get an AC/Delco 12, or does anyone have a cross-reference to another P/N? Definitely gonna stick with a GM/AC/Delco plug, I'd be a fool not to, in this case.

Interesting, the 93,000 mile plugs I removed from my truck are the "cheapie" AC/Delco Rapid-Fire plugs, $2.99 each. They are not on the list of recommended replacements, so I went with the (Ouch!) $7.09 each AC/Delco Irridium plugs listed as the GM replacement by several sites. They do have a 100,000 mile warranty on them. Also, as I pulled the first plug, the wire broke, leaving the terminal on the plug. The wires have those metal shells surrounding the plug boot, so there is nothing else you can pull on, other than the metal or the wire. I twisted it first, to break the boot loose from the plug insulator, I don't know what else I could have done to avoid breaking the wire. Maybe after 190,000 miles, they are just deteriorated to the point where it's inevitable... Anyway, replacement wires are very expensive also - $49 for the set. So a "routine" plug & wire change cost $115! Hopefully they will all last another 100K miles. The replacement wires were the "cheapie" house brand at O'Reilly, (Opti-Spark). At least they are lifetime warranty, and made in USA.
Will post an update when the job is done, hoping this will eliminate the "Service Engine Soon" light, so I can pass the annual Texas inspection and get my registration renewed. (The code scanner at AutoZone said "intermittent ignition miss", and recommended about 10 different things to change, plugs was 1st on list.

I am changing the plugs on my 2002 Silvy HD 6.0, and since I have put 93,000 miles on this set, I figured I would replace them with whatever came out. Turns out AC/Delco plug and the only marking on it is "12". (And "Made in USA"). Nothing else anywhere. I can't find the AC #12 plug at any of the local parts stores, or the Autozone and O'Reilly websites. The show a P/N 41-110, is that that the same? Crazy thing is, the owners manual specifies only 2 plugs, an NGK P/N, and a Denso P/N. (Why only 2 Japanese plugs and no GM/AC Delco???). Anyway, the plug I pulled looks perfect, not too hot or cold. May even be the originals, (Truck had 97K on it when I bought it, now at 190,000). Gap is worn very wide, .100", still running good, with occasional miss at idle. So where do I get an AC/Delco 12, or does anyone have a cross-reference to another P/N? Definitely gonna stick with a GM/AC/Delco plug, I'd be a fool not to, in this case.

Someone before you changed the plugs to no 12 rapid fire plugs.:lol2:

I show replacement plugs for it are AC 41-985 at .040 gap

first post the DTC check engine failure codes ALL...

I agree with MT 2500 that the 41-985 ac delco irridium plugs are what is called for with the 2500HD 6.0l engine..

my 1500 5.3L engine uses the 41-110 iridium...

It you have the po300 code this can be many things..with all those miles check the fuel pressure with a pressure guage..low fuel pressure will do this ...as well as other items..make sure the plug wire resistance is checked on plug replacement..spark plugs should be replaced at 50,ooomi. use dielectric grease in the boot ends..this aids in removal and keeps water out which reduces the wires being damaged. those plugs you need are about a dollar more ..

The latest AC Delco Spark Plug book I could find, (2010), now shows the 41-110 Irridium as being the correct plug for the 6.0 engine, using a .040 gap.

The air cleaner decal on truck says .060 gap, but I went with the .040 recommended in the book. The plugs were apparently pre-gapped by the factory at .040, but I checked them all VERY CAREFULLY with a feeler gauge, using .039 as a "go", since .040 was somewhat snug, and I didn't want to damage the fragile-looking electrodes. All were precisely there.

Replaced all the plug wires as well. Truck starts quickly, idles beautifully, seems much more responsive off idle, and no more "Service Engine Soon" light. (Yes, it was PO300 DTC).

Thanks Guys!:smokin:

The latest AC Delco Spark Plug book I could find, (2010), now shows the 41-110 Irridium as being the correct plug for the 6.0 engine, using a .040 gap.

The air cleaner decal on truck says .060 gap, but I went with the .040 recommended in the book. The plugs were apparently pre-gapped by the factory at .040, but I checked them all VERY CAREFULLY with a feeler gauge, using .039 as a "go", since .040 was somewhat snug, and I didn't want to damage the fragile-looking electrodes. All were precisely there.

Replaced all the plug wires as well. Truck starts quickly, idles beautifully, seems much more responsive off idle, and no more "Service Engine Soon" light. (Yes, it was PO300 DTC).

Thanks Guys!:smokin:

You are welcome.

Right on with what the newest AC Delco plug book calls for.
And never try to reset the gap.
Or use old specs off of decal
If the gap is not right pitch them back and get some that are right.
Good Luck