Trans fluid

What is everyone running for trans fluid? Tremec calls for gm synchromesh or atf. Has anyone seen any testing of various oils in tremec transmissions re: Power loss thru the transmission -v- type of oil?

Thanks
bruce

What is everyone running for trans fluid? Tremec calls for gm synchromesh or atf. Has anyone seen any testing of various oils in tremec transmissions re: Power loss thru the transmission -v- type of oil?

Thanks
bruce

Bruce, I use Redline MTL in my endurance car. We are doing races up to 6 hours duration with no issues. The car has no oil cooler fitted to the trans.

I have used Redline oil in varisous transmissions and diffs (Redline Heavy Shockproof for diffs) for many years with great success and will not use any other product.

Kel.

I use Penzoil Syncromesh from the local autoparts store.

I use WalMart synthic trans. oil. It's made by Mobil. I have never had a problem with the oil. I check the oil after every weekend and change the oil about 2 times a season.

When I had a TKO2 (3550) I used lots of diff. synthetics but when I went to the TKO600 the tremec dealer told me to only use GM Synchro mesh and I confirmed that with a few other dealers. I have been using only that. I get it from the tremec dealers. Its not in a branded GM container so its a little suspicious.

GM Synchro for sure.

Redline here

Redline here

I'm with Kel and Eric. RedLine MTL. Gary Jones gave me two cases of the GM Synchromesh with the advise to only use it in street cars or change it often if I put it in the Panoz. Some of what he had to say about it was not suitable for a family oriented site like this. I've had 20 years experience with the MTL and never had a transmission issue using it. It even improved the shifting over conventional lube it two boxes that were tired. I am sure the Synchromesh would be fine if it gets changed regularly and often (like engine oil, say every 10 hours on track), but your trans will run at a higher temp even when it is new compared to a fully synthetic. Temperature is friction and wear. Temperature reduces lube life geometrically.

Mike

I'm with Kel and Eric. RedLine MTL. Gary Jones gave me two cases of the GM Synchromesh with the advise to only use it in street cars or change it often if I put it in the Panoz. Some of what he had to say about it was not suitable for a family oriented site like this. I've had 20 years experience with the MTL and never had a transmission issue using it. It even improved the shifting over conventional lube it two boxes that were tired. I am sure the Synchromesh would be fine if it gets changed regularly and often (like engine oil, say every 10 hours on track), but your trans will run at a higher temp even when it is new compared to a fully synthetic. Temperature is friction and wear. Temperature reduces lube life geometrically.

Mike

Good call on the temp/wear side of things Mike. Thats how I ended up using Redline in gearboxes and diffs in the first place.

I was racing for a place in a championship and knew leading up to the last meeting of the season that I had split the input shaft bearing in the cars M22 Muncie box. Didnt have time to pull the box and the car was near impossible to drive due shift issues. The box was also getting so hot that you could not touch the aluminium case after 6 laps.

For the last meeting of the season I changed the oil in the box to Redline lightweight shockproof, did nothing else. Shifting was no problem and the box was not hot to touch at all after 6 laps. Completed the meeting and got third in the championship. On strip down there were no signs of excessive heat build up which I had had with previous similar failures. That converted me and now I never use any other product in gearboxes or diffs than Redline.

Have yet to try Redline engine oil (although we did try a couple of different oils during a recent dyno session).........does anyone have any experiences to share on this?

Kel.

Kel,
For hydraulic roller, the synthetics and other modern spec oils should be great. I'm using Valvoline 10w30 full synthetic. Put two oil changes on the motor and about 25 hours total. When I took it apart to do a stroker conversion, it was immaculate. I've never seen a motor with a total of 230 hours of track time look like this. The crank will be able to be polished and stay standard. Could well be reused without polishing. The cylinders and piston skirts were as new. The inside of the valve covers had no deposits. I know this was the original '97 Explorer 5.0 motor and had not been apart before. I do not know what Panoz used when it was at the school, but it obviously had regular oil changes. Even in this summer Texas climate, the oil temp never exceeded 220 degrees F. If I had more $ I'd step up to RedLine or Amsol. I can usually get the Valvoline full synthetic for about $5 a quart. It appears to be doing a great job.

For a high spring rate flat tappet cam the current additive package is supposed to need some help. Apparently many if not all the newer spec oils lack a key element needed to keep the cam lobes intact. I believe there are stand alone additives available to make these oils work with high spring pressure flat tappet cams and lifters. Can't recall the needed element, but I bet you are already familiar with this issue. My Mustang has a flat tappet mechanical cam, but it has moderate spring pressure and even using Mobil 1 for 25 k miles didn't hurt it. I am unsure if all current oils lack the required element or not, specifically RedLine and Amsol. I read that the current spec Mobil 1 does lack it, but the source of this info was just a post on another forum. Any info you or others have would be helpful to me and others I'm sure.

Mike

Kel,
For hydraulic roller, the synthetics and other modern spec oils should be great. I'm using Valvoline 10w30 full synthetic. Put two oil changes on the motor and about 25 hours total. When I took it apart to do a stroker conversion, it was immaculate. I've never seen a motor with a total of 230 hours of track time look like this. The crank will be able to be polished and stay standard. Could well be reused without polishing. The cylinders and piston skirts were as new. The inside of the valve covers had no deposits. I know this was the original '97 Explorer 5.0 motor and had not been apart before. I do not know what Panoz used when it was at the school, but it obviously had regular oil changes. Even in this summer Texas climate, the oil temp never exceeded 220 degrees F. If I had more $ I'd step up to RedLine or Amsol. I can usually get the Valvoline full synthetic for about $5 a quart. It appears to be doing a great job.

For a high spring rate flat tappet cam the current additive package is supposed to need some help. Apparently many if not all the newer spec oils lack a key element needed to keep the cam lobes intact. I believe there are stand alone additives available to make these oils work with high spring pressure flat tappet cams and lifters. Can't recall the needed element, but I bet you are already familiar with this issue. My Mustang has a flat tappet mechanical cam, but it has moderate spring pressure and even using Mobil 1 for 25 k miles didn't hurt it. I am unsure if all current oils lack the required element or not, specifically RedLine and Amsol. I read that the current spec Mobil 1 does lack it, but the source of this info was just a post on another forum. Any info you or others have would be helpful to me and others I'm sure.

Mike

Mike, I use Brad Penn because it has a zink and phos. package like the older oils. Mobil one has just released a "Mobil one racing oil " not for street use but with zink and phos added. Mobil one released it at the PRI show and you can purchase on line. One of the pro teams told me this is good stuff and use it. I am going to try it in Aug. when my new car gets here.

Jim,
Thanks, good to know. Given the few miles I put on the Mustang, I'll probably be able to swing the Mobil 1 Racing.

Mike