95 4.6 v8 T-bird multi-issues

prefic info: I am not the original owner, I have owned and drivin this car daily for 2 years now. As of the last 4 months it has been drivin up and down the side of a mtn here in Kentucky half black-top and half gravel road. basic tune-up (plugs, wires, air filter) regular oil changes with very minor oil consumption prior to the mtn driving at a rate equal to approx 1 qt per month (600 miles mnthly driving prior to mtn drive, 720 miles mnthly now)
question 1; oil. since the new driving area oil consumption has greatly increased to 1 qt every 2 weeks. No visable signs of leakage in driveway or parking spot at work, and no change in exhaust color, no discoloration of antifreeze either. Any suggestions on the increase in consumption and possible fixes?

question 2; electrical. recently solved a voltage drain related to a loose battery cable wire on the negative side. Adequate charging with no noticable reduction in voltage on the meter until the high speed fan kicks in, then the voltage draw drops the meter down to barely 8 to 10 volts. The gauge light comes on and stays lit till well after voltage renews itself to show normal operating range of 15 +/- volts on the meter. (this is also the range shown after starting until the engine is shut off.) If the vehicle is re-started while warm 90% of the time the gauge light will go on for various amounts of time even though the voltage meter in the dash shows normal operating range. ( unless the high speed fan kicks in again which in turn re-creates that huge voltage drain and thus the light..etc.etc.) I have checked all fuses under the dash and the larger bus type under the hood, nothing shows defect. Any suggestions on cause or suggestions on what to test?

question 3; trans related. The overdrive button (auto transmission) when depressed does not produce any results. (I have no functional knowledge about transmissions) The vehicle runs at approx 1500 rpm at 55 mph. Only noticable trans issues is a "grinding" when going from 2nd to 3rd on occation which is quickly rectified with just the slightest let-off of the gas and then accelerate again. it sometimes might happen when climbing a hill, other times just down a straight stretch. I dont jump on the gas any time, my wife kids me that i drive like an old man some times thus no "jack-rabbit" starts. is the lack of response from the O/D button cause for concern? and what could possibly be causing the "grind" when going 2nd to 3rd could it be a result of that O/D button? as I mentioned I a pure novice when it comes to transmissions.

Sorry about the long post but hope that I have provided enough information to allow any of you out there to provide some feedback that I might be able to use. I enjoy the T-bird especially the consistant 26 to 30 MPH i get religiously.

Thanks,
Run

Welcome to the forum Runclan. 1. Have you changed the PCV valve lately? If not, I'd do that next. If you're driving up a steep grade then it's possible the rear main seal is letting oil get past it and into the bellhousing. Put the car on a lift or ramps and look at the bottom side of the car especially around the oil pan for oil. Remove the inspection cover on the bottom front of the bellhousing to see if any oil is in there. Check the bolts on the valve covers and oil pan to be sure they aren't loose.
2. Check the connections to the instrument panel- including the ground connection to be sure they are clean and tight. Have your battery and alternator/regulator tested. I take it you have already cleaned and tightened the pos and neg cables on the battery.
3. Does the light come on to say overdrive has been disabled when you press the button? There should be 12V at the switch when the key is in the Run position. A 5A fuse supplies power to the switch. Other then that, I can't help with the trans problem as I don't know enough about them to offer good advice to you!

1. pcv has been changed within last year. (may just get another since is a cheap part for shot-gun troubleshooting) last time I changed the oil i went over everything i could see and/or touch and nothing showed oil. When I did do the tune-up 8 months ago, a couple plug boots were a little oily but I have pulled and checked them almost monthly and seen no new oil signs. I haven't checked the bell houseing will do so asap. thanks.

2. Battery/alt both test good. infact alt showed excellent ripple even though it looks like its the original.

3. No light for O/D; havent been able to figure out how to get the shift-lever off to check voltage to the button, haven't found the fuse for the O/D unless its included in the cluster identified with some other component.

Thanks very much for the reply..

Peace

Runclan,
1.See if there is oil in the hose coming from the PCV valve which would mean blow by condition.
2. Connect a voltmeter to the battery and see what the voltage reads to see if it agrees with the cluster meter during all conditions.
3. The connector for the O/D switch is in the console below the ashtray. The Purple w/ Orange stripe wire is the feed from the fuse and the Tan w/ White stripe wire goes from the switch to the PCM. With the O/D button pressed there should be 12V at both of these wires. The fuse for this is the Run (5A) fuse and is located in the Primary Junction Block under the dash. FYI if you need to remove the switch or knob- The O/D switch is removed by gently prying between the switch housing and the gearshift lever knob. There is a u shaped retaining clip on the front side of the gear shift knob that has to come out. If you put the shift lever all the way back it will be easier to see the slot that it is in. After removing the clip, push in the release button (the button you have to push when moving the selector back and forth) and then pull up on the gear shift knob. Do the other indicator lights such as the Door Ajar and Cruise Control work? These indicators as well as the O/D light are powered from the Cluster fuse (5A) in the same panel as the Run fuse.

what oil are you running in the car with how many miles?