92 Lesabre no heat

No heat, no air movement.

This is an ongoing problem here and I need some help. The daughter drives this car and without heat or defrost she'll be bumbing Dad's car.

I have posted the problem before but I'm having difficulty troubleshooting with the electrical diagram in my Chilton to track down where the fuses are exactly.

It's a 92 Custom with manual controls.

I pulled the dash apart and from what I can tell I have lights to the control assembly and the actuator works. I could see it move when I took the glove box out and moved the temperature selector from cold to warm.

Looking at the wiring diagram it refers to a FUSE 5D 25A and FUSE 5A 10A. I cannot for the life of me find where these are. The fuse box under the dash on the drivers side of the car does not have a Fuse 5 and the passenger side doesn't have one either.

I checked the FUSE 3 30A under the hood and it looked good. Even swapped it with the 30A spare. No difference.

I notice there are references to other fuses such as FUSE 5C 10A (I/P FUSE BLOCK) and FUSE 4 40A (Left underhood fuse block).

I noticed the A/C compressor would cycle on and off every few minutes if that means anything.

I also replaced the blower resister assembly a few months ago.

Thanks for the help.

No blower operation I assume, also no power to the blower motor? There may be a better wiring diagram at autozone.com, repair guides, register and go to chassis electrical.

Thanks, for the tip. Right, I have no power going to the blowers.

I checked out the wiring diagrams at Autozone but they weren't any help. They left out most of the HVAC.

There may be a module, usually on top of or near the evap case under the r/s of the engine compt. mounted near the fire wall. If not look for the blower relay in the main distr. box under the hood.

i have a 92 limeted with duel zone my blower moduel is located belowe the blower follow the wire down it will go to the blower resistor then there will be wires coming from the fire wall those should have power if all fails run a switch to it thats what i did for a long time till i figured my trouble out good luck

There may be a module, usually on top of or near the evap case under the r/s of the engine compt. mounted near the fire wall. If not look for the blower relay in the main distr. box under the hood.

Are you refering to the blower resister assembly? It's near the firewall under the relay panel. I put a new one in around August this year. Is there a way to test it?

I would suspect the wiring, or terminal @ the resistor as being the culprit. The "92 Custom with manual controls" does not have a blower control module.

OK..pulled the resistor and did a continuity check across all terminals. All checked ok. Will check for voltage on the Dk Blue wire with car in Run and Heat control turned to HI as soon as I can find a new 9v battery. Any suggestions if I find no voltage?

Check the blower switch in the control head and the connector.

I checked voltage at the blower resistor with car in run...got nothin'.

Checked for voltage at Fuse 3 30A underhood at the fuse block marked A/C on the box..supposed to be hot at all times. I got nothin'.

Checked Fuse 17 (inside-driver) got 10+- volts with car in RUN and 0 when off.

Should there be power at the Control Assembly and if so which wire? I checked the brown wire and got nothing.

Should be a red or orange wire at the control head that is powered. You need power at the fused circuit before you go any further.

Can you expand on where the fused circuit should be? I'm puzzled by the 30A fuse under the hood that's supposed to be hot at all times. Where is this fuse supposed to draw it's power from? There are red lines running behind the fuse that lead to bundles that disappear into the firewall on both driver and passenger sides.

Need some kind of wiring diagram for this are you sure autozone.com does not have this? I found this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038fbb4, a fusible link at the starter harness feeds that circuit in the fuse box, first try direct power to in side of the fuse see what happens.

I poured over those schematics and they don't address the climate control system very well. They only vaguely mention the blower motor and resister with descriptions like "to fuse"...which fuse???

There is a black wire going direct from the battery positive (+) terminal to the under-hood fuse/relay panel. There should be a 60 amp # 2 fuse in the panel for that wire. Check the 60 amp fuse first, of course if you don't have power on that fuse, none of the rest would have 12v. FYI, here is a layout of the relays in that panel, along with the blower motor/resistor schematic and main fuse panel feed from battery .

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/6510/buickblowerrelay502chj8.jpg


Black wire from battery to fuse/relay panel

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/4332/1992lesabreheatermotorw.jpg


Blower motor (with resistor) schematic

http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/4332/1992lesabreheatermotorw.jpg

is this blowing fuses at all because my dad had same problem if fuses are blowing like to never found out but under passenger side and we unplugged every sensor or relay and the last one we pulled it never blew a fuse since and it had something to do with the dinger and still works fine. but if not blowing fuse thats probably not whats wrong.

OK FUSE 2 60A is good. The square box looking fuses were all jumbled and put in randomly so they don't line up with the diagram. I did however check the one with the purple and black wire and it was showed voltage from the terminal. I swaped the fuse with another like kind with no change.

Can you tell me where the power for FUSE 3 comes from? I can see the red wires running from behind the fuse panel but was wondering where they start from. From both sides they run into a bundle that appears to disappear behind the firewall.

is this blowing fuses at all because my dad had same problem if fuses are blowing like to never found out but under passenger side and we unplugged every sensor or relay and the last one we pulled it never blew a fuse since and it had something to do with the dinger and still works fine. but if not blowing fuse thats probably not whats wrong.

I haven't found any blown fuses as of yet but I'm not 100% certain which fuses to check. I've checked FUSE 17 inside the car and the FUSE 3 under the hood. I swapped them with other working fuses and did visual and continuity checks on them and they appear good.

Should be a red or orange wire at the control head that is powered. You need power at the fused circuit before you go any further.

I checked the Orange wire from the harness that would go into the control unit and it read 11.6volts. The blue wire read 8.4v. There was another orange wire coming out of the control unit but it read zero when the connectors were plugged in. Not sure if both wires are related other than color. I'm going to follow the hot orange wire to the circuit board and see what that reads. I have to take it apart first.

ok..I bypassed power across the orange wires in the harness and the blower motor came on. Does this mean the problem is with the Climate Contol Module? I was a little surprised with the wire being hot at all times. I didn't have to have the car in RUN to bridge the two wires.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to find a used C67 manual control module? I've checked with all the local junkyards and even many I've found online. I guess I'm looking for a junkyard that specializes in GM.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to find a used C67 manual control module? I've checked with all the local junkyards and even many I've found online. I guess I'm looking for a junkyard that specializes in GM.

I found several yards offering control parts for C67.

This may be the actual control on the dash itself.

Or are you looking for the programmer box for C67?
Either way these might be ones to call as long as you can be clear which part you're wanting. I've ordered a part from one of the yards and they charged about $20 shipping for a heavier part for 150 miles away.

It might be worth checking some of these close to Dayton.

Check your private mail here on site.

I found several yards offering control parts for C67.

This may be the actual control on the dash itself.

Or are you looking for the programmer box for C67?
Either way these might be ones to call as long as you can be clear which part you're wanting. I've ordered a part from one of the yards and they charged about $20 shipping for a heavier part for 150 miles away.

It might be worth checking some of these close to Dayton.

Check your private mail here on site.

Thanks for the tip. I have the part number 16145214. But the online searches only describe it as Lesabre Limited C67. I'll give the ones close by a call. I called a yard east of Columbus who said he should have one but I really to don't want to drive an hour and a half for a possibility. Someone at work who lives near Granville, OH said there was a junkyard there that only takes GM vehicles.

Thanks, imidazol97 for the lead on the control module. Took a road trip yesterday afternoon and picked it up for $35, put it in this morning, and we're back in business. In fact, there's no hesitation between switching from heat to a/c and the rr defogger comes on with the first push. I think the control module had been on the fritz ever since I bought the car 7 yrs ago.

Thanks, imidazol97 for the lead on the control module. Took a road trip yesterday afternoon and picked it up for $35, put it in this morning, and we're back in business. In fact, there's no hesitation between switching from heat to a/c and the rr defogger comes on with the first push. I think the control module had been on the fritz ever since I bought the car 7 yrs ago.

Which junkyard were you able to get it from?

I was getting ready to suggest some that aren't showing parts in the website lists. There's one in Richmond on the far northwest side that is a possibility.

I'm glad for you that it was the control panel. And it works.

Thanks for coming back to let everyone know what you found. That may help another poster.

Which junkyard were you able to get it from?

I was getting ready to suggest some that aren't showing parts in the website lists. There's one in Richmond on the far northwest side that is a possibility.

I'm glad for you that it was the control panel. And it works.

Thanks for coming back to let everyone know what you found. That may help another poster.

I went with National Auto and Truck in Wapakoneta. Mainly because they had listed an actual price in the search instead of $$/call for pricing and they were within 10 miles of the Richmond store.

Thanks, again.