How do i check blend door???

I have a 97 ford taurus 3.0 130,000 miles and no heat I've had heating core replaced, system and core flushed and back flushed with regular garden hose after that and yesterday the thermostat replaced but I only have heat when going above 3,000 rpms and it is warm not hot. Only other things can think of would be water pump but car isn't overheating and consensus has said its not likely, electronic blend door problem or the steel lines between the engine and heating core are clogged though this doesn't sound likely either.. I can check the blend door to atleast rule that out but i have no idea as to how... can someone please assist me? I'm a single mom who knows nothing about cars i'm just trying to get this fixed so i can drive my kids around wout freezing or worrying about vision impairment because i cant defrost my car.. please help me figure this out?

The easiest way to check the blend door motor is to disconnect it from the door lever and see if you can work the door by hand. If you can get heat by moc=ving the lever, the actuator is bad. The actuator is located under the center of the dash and is a little plastic box aboyt 4 inches by 4 inches. It has a wiring connection going to it.

To add: First sit in car with all accessories off and turn the heat switch from cold to hot and see if you can hear a little motor running. If you can, there is current going to the actuator. A drawing of it is below. 1 is electrical plug, 2 is maunting screws, 3 is actuator.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s214/way2old1/rearexpac5.gif

Thank you!!!:)

Another simpler test to know if your blend door actuator is bad: Go inside an underground parking lot and turn on your A/C (if it works) and set temp to the hottest position. If the air is cooler than in vent position, the blend door is the problem.
You can do the test on the street, but you will freeze even more.

If you need to turn temp knob at cold position to feel the A/C, the problem is related to the cooling system. Maybe there's rust deposit inside the heater core that reduce the coolant circulation.

wow thank you i'll try that! :)

UH, no heat unless you rev the engine? Thats indicative of a BAD HEADGASKET problem

did you ever feel the heater hoses to see what temp they are at? RPM has no bearing on the blend air door!!!

Head gasket or intake manifold gasket problems can cause the heater to stop working, but it also cause overheating and coolant losses. I experienced this problem for 2 years with my Cutlass Supreme. The temp needle go up to 260°F when heater stop working and engine become warm.

The reason why you feel warm air when you rev up at 3000rpm, is probably because the heat from your engine and front radiator goes inside the cabin air inlet even with coldest vent setting. It does that with my Taurus too in fall, when it's hot outside and my engine become hot and rad fan kick on, I feel warm air.

The Taurus is not designed as good as a BMW for example, so the heat from the engine goes inside the cabin. Although that in winter it can be useful.

Thank you guys for your advice!

It could also be your blend door that has a broken shaft at the top of the actuator and if it is then I would get hold of www.heatertreater.net . They have a cheaper way to fix it than going to the dealer.