2001 4.3l blazer engine problem

I replaced the lower intake gaskets on my blazer because of major coolant leak. While apart i found really bad oil sludge under lower intake manifold and cleaned as much as possible before reassembly. Got everything back together pressure tested coolant system found no leaks. changed oil and filter to be sure no contamination due to changing intake gaskets. I drove the truck about 150 miles with no problems. On my way home one night about 100 yards from my house the oil pressure dropped but not all the way it went down to about 1\4 way up on the gauge, as soon as this happened i heard a loud squealing noise that is constant with rpm. I checked oil level and it is good, took belt off to see what was causing squealing noise restarted engine and it was still there any ideas?

The intake gasket job probably loosened up some sludge and it worked its way to the oil pan. If that's the case, the oil pump pick up screen might be clogged causing oil starvation to the bearings. If the noise is still there with the belt off, it probably spun a bearing.

thanks for reply found bad main and rod bearings, guess i really screwed this one up

Uh oh! That's too bad. Time for an engine. If you opt for a boneyard engine, it would be a good idea to remove a rocker arm cover and inspect for sludge before you go through the time and expense of installing it.

Do you know what kind of oil was used in this motor?

Jerry, I think I know where you are going with that question. I personally try to avoid oils that have paraffin additives in them. everyone has their opinion on oil brands though. I can tell ya that i've used castrol 5w30 for 100,000 miles, and when did my LIM gasket last fall, i had no deposits built up anywhere...

Jerry, I think I know where you are going with that question. I personally try to avoid oils that have paraffin additives in them. everyone has their opinion on oil brands though. I can tell ya that i've used castrol 5w30 for 100,000 miles, and when did my LIM gasket last fall, i had no deposits built up anywhere...

That was my thought, I still remember seeing the inside of a few engines tore down years ago that only even had Havoline oil in them, & there be a few more oils that do the same thing theses days.

Plus I had been getting my oil changed at one of those quick lubes since I was disable in 2002, they get their oil in barrels, and I am not convinced its what it is suppose to be.

I am now back to changing my own oil after I had a stuck valve even though its a big effort for me. That happened about 100 miles after an oil change at the quick lube I changed my oil myself replacing one quart of oil with a quart of Rislone. Within 100 miles it had stopped sticking. I change it again at 3,000 miles, now the top side of my engine is about as quite as the bottom side.

GTX high mileage 10w30 most of the time

GM recommends 5W30 in these engines. A steady diet of 10W30 may have been a contributing factor for bearing failure. The bearings do not contact the journals, if they do, they fail prematurely. There is a "cushion" of oil between the bearing and the journal and 10W30 doesn't "fit" as easily as a 5W oil does. Thicker oil increases oil pressure, but decreases flow to the bearings. Just something to keep in mind ;)

have any input on where i should find a reman engine

Check with some local repair shops in your area and see who they recommend, or better yet, who they DON'T recommend. It would be best to stop by in person rather than calling them on the phone. There's probably a local rebuiler in Frankfort, if not, Louisville for sure.

thanks for info if i do decide to go with used engine do you know what year models i need to look at?

Always best to stay with the same year, there's less fooling around making stuff fit/work and transfering of parts. Any 4.3L will fit, regardless of the year, but a good boneyard will be able to tell you what year(s) will work correctly with your wire harnesses and PCM/VCM.