ac compressor replacement
ccnova
11-26-2010, 07:25 PM
My 97 Suburban with 5.7 started makeing a noise so after a little investigating I found the ac compresssor pulley clutch assembly would wobble causing the noise. The ac still works but it looks like it was leaking a little oil from the compressor.
I decided to just replace the whole compressor. I work for Coca Cola and our refrigeration tech can evacuate and later pump down and recharge the system for me at cost of parts only if I can simply replace the compressor. Any tips or tricks to doing that?
After he evacuates the system can I simply unbolt and replace the compressor and drive it for a few days or will I harm the compressor? If I dont hook up power to the compressor will it be harmed? He can evacuate it monday evening but wont have time to pump it down and recharge it till thursday. I could chnage the compressor monday night but will need to drive it in between.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
ccnova
I decided to just replace the whole compressor. I work for Coca Cola and our refrigeration tech can evacuate and later pump down and recharge the system for me at cost of parts only if I can simply replace the compressor. Any tips or tricks to doing that?
After he evacuates the system can I simply unbolt and replace the compressor and drive it for a few days or will I harm the compressor? If I dont hook up power to the compressor will it be harmed? He can evacuate it monday evening but wont have time to pump it down and recharge it till thursday. I could chnage the compressor monday night but will need to drive it in between.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
ccnova
j cAT
11-26-2010, 09:36 PM
My 97 Suburban with 5.7 started makeing a noise so after a little investigating I found the ac compresssor pulley clutch assembly would wobble causing the noise. The ac still works but it looks like it was leaking a little oil from the compressor.
I decided to just replace the whole compressor. I work for Coca Cola and our refrigeration tech can evacuate and later pump down and recharge the system for me at cost of parts only if I can simply replace the compressor. Any tips or tricks to doing that?
After he evacuates the system can I simply unbolt and replace the compressor and drive it for a few days or will I harm the compressor? If I dont hook up power to the compressor will it be harmed? He can evacuate it monday evening but wont have time to pump it down and recharge it till thursday. I could chnage the compressor monday night but will need to drive it in between.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
ccnova
with the proper tools it is possible to replace the pully assy and not mess with the refrigerent. some stores like auto zone , may have the correct clutch and pulley remover/and installer to do this . you are aware of this I guess..
with the compressor removed drain out the oil into a measuring device. then install I believe your vehicle uses PAG 150 oil.install into the new compressor the same amount plus 1 more oz. probably this will be 4-5oz usually. get new O rings for the connector to compressor..
then get system vacuum pumped as soon as possible as mositure in the system will react with this oil and start to cause damage internally. this can cause poor cooling and blockages..
I decided to just replace the whole compressor. I work for Coca Cola and our refrigeration tech can evacuate and later pump down and recharge the system for me at cost of parts only if I can simply replace the compressor. Any tips or tricks to doing that?
After he evacuates the system can I simply unbolt and replace the compressor and drive it for a few days or will I harm the compressor? If I dont hook up power to the compressor will it be harmed? He can evacuate it monday evening but wont have time to pump it down and recharge it till thursday. I could chnage the compressor monday night but will need to drive it in between.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
ccnova
with the proper tools it is possible to replace the pully assy and not mess with the refrigerent. some stores like auto zone , may have the correct clutch and pulley remover/and installer to do this . you are aware of this I guess..
with the compressor removed drain out the oil into a measuring device. then install I believe your vehicle uses PAG 150 oil.install into the new compressor the same amount plus 1 more oz. probably this will be 4-5oz usually. get new O rings for the connector to compressor..
then get system vacuum pumped as soon as possible as mositure in the system will react with this oil and start to cause damage internally. this can cause poor cooling and blockages..
laxman21
11-29-2010, 01:49 PM
Get a Sanden Compressor if you replace it. Dump the POS Delphi style. Search Compressor belly leak and you will find it. Sometimes they leak when they are taken off and reinstalled without the proper torque on the bolts.
Cusser
12-02-2010, 09:49 AM
Yes, if you're planning to keep the vehicle long-term, then Sanden replacement would be best (see ACKits.com). Keep in mind that:
(1) Sanden is more expensive
(2) You'd need new compressor mounts
(3) You'd need new hose manifold to be made or new fittings grafted onto your manifold lines.
(1) Sanden is more expensive
(2) You'd need new compressor mounts
(3) You'd need new hose manifold to be made or new fittings grafted onto your manifold lines.
laxman21
12-03-2010, 10:31 AM
Yes, if you're planning to keep the vehicle long-term, then Sanden replacement would be best (see ACKits.com). Keep in mind that:
(1) Sanden is more expensive
(2) You'd need new compressor mounts
(3) You'd need new hose manifold to be made or new fittings grafted onto your manifold lines.
Mine was a direct bolt in for the HT6 compressor, both in my Burb and blazer, which should be in a 97. Only thing needed was a longer belt which was listed in the directions.
Ebay price was $190 shipped with new orifice tube and dryer.
(1) Sanden is more expensive
(2) You'd need new compressor mounts
(3) You'd need new hose manifold to be made or new fittings grafted onto your manifold lines.
Mine was a direct bolt in for the HT6 compressor, both in my Burb and blazer, which should be in a 97. Only thing needed was a longer belt which was listed in the directions.
Ebay price was $190 shipped with new orifice tube and dryer.
j cAT
12-03-2010, 10:03 PM
Yes, if you're planning to keep the vehicle long-term, then Sanden replacement would be best (see ACKits.com). Keep in mind that:
(1) Sanden is more expensive
(2) You'd need new compressor mounts
(3) You'd need new hose manifold to be made or new fittings grafted onto your manifold lines.
rather than spend big bucks for a new fancy compressor he should get a newer vehicle ...
that compressor and install would be greater cost than this ride he has.
if no cash for newer vehicle scrap yard ...for replacement.
(1) Sanden is more expensive
(2) You'd need new compressor mounts
(3) You'd need new hose manifold to be made or new fittings grafted onto your manifold lines.
rather than spend big bucks for a new fancy compressor he should get a newer vehicle ...
that compressor and install would be greater cost than this ride he has.
if no cash for newer vehicle scrap yard ...for replacement.
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