Spraying a wide pattern

Hey guys, I want to try a wider spray pattern w/ my Badger 200 single action.I assume I should change my needle and tip to the medium size--is this correct?

1--Should I change any other parts at this time?

2--Also, will letting my brush sit in laquer thinner ruin any internal parts?

3--One more--should I 'post ' this type question or 'start new thread'.? I'm not sure of the difference.

I really appreciate your help in getting re-started. Chris

You can actually get a small, medium and large needles and tips for the Badger 200. Depending how wide you want to spray you can go for the medium or large one. Obviously you need to change both the needle and tip to the same size, so they are compatible. You do know that you can alter the spray width by turning the needle out from the handle at the back..?? Be careful soaking the brush in lacquer thinner as there are a few rubber seals inside that may get damaged....

Thanks for the help Steve-yeah,I do back it out when I want a wider spray. Im just curious to experiment what type of coverage I can get with difft needles/tips. I bought some cheap kits on ebay to practice my spraying so I dont screw up my nice kits. Its helped me a lot and I would recommend this approach to anyone trying to get comfortable with airbrushing bodys. Happy Holidays, Chris

PS-how about soaking my AB in enamel thinner? Any less damaging than laquer?

Just don't soak the air valve in thinner. The seals are teflon in the body and on the head so they are safe. I've always used the IL or M (same thing) head for most painting.
Oh, and be sure to get a needle for the 200, the more common 150 needle is shorter.

Thanks TR,can you recommend a site where you get your AB parts and supplies? Chris

Start with the Badger site 'badgerairbush.com' check out the garage sale, you might find a whole brush for the price of a new head and needle. I think their parts are still through wen-wen though i haven't gone direct in a few years. I've been going through Coastairbrush though dixieart may be a better choice given your location.
btw. Get an extra head washer, I always keep a spare.

I use to have a 200 and one of the reasons I ditched it was when spraying larger spray patterns it has a tendency to collect paint around in the inside of the tip which then spits and ruins paint jobs. You should consider getting the Badger Crescendo 175 model. It is much more versatile and has a very wide trigger range. Get the set with all three tips and needles.

Yes Ive had the exact same issue but I assumed it was down to my not having much experience with the AB..I've considered getting an Iwata

cdbx - I'm no expert at airbrushes but one thing I know from 1:1 painting is that the size of the tip/needle is dependent on the thickness "viscosity" of the paint you are spraying - there is an adjustment at the back of the needle that allows how far the needle opens and how much paint comes out at one time. With dual action air-brushes how far you pull back on the trigger depends on how much paint will come out - You can vary the spray width by how far away from the surface you are painting - how much paint comes out when the trigger is pressed based on the adjustment at the back of the needle - and the air pressure you are using. If you are using an airbrush and you are having problems with paint drying and building up on the tip and getting in the finish - one problem is the paint is not "wet" enough and is drying before it reaches the surface that you are trying to paint. This can be caused by "reducers" thinners that are not for the correct temperature - depending on the paint being used there are "retarders" that slow down the drying of the paint when the air temperature/humidity is not the best for spraying. I have only been back at modeling for a few years now using airbrushes, but I practice the same way I did when I sprayed life size cars and motorcycles. I currently have an Iwata revolution CR and a Paasche VL, but I also picked up some "made in China" airbrushes "Master" brand from TPC Global off eBay that were cheap and in all honesty work as well if not better than the Iwata and Paasche. The made in China brand is "Master" and they make many different types and kits with different needles/tips/cups - I'm sure you will find something that will fit your needs. I also use mostly automotive paints - urethanes and lacquers a few enamels and 2 part clears. I get many of my paints from Hiroboy in the UK as they have many color matched paints that are perfect. They are a basecoat/clearcoat system though, but this allows for easy repairs for any blemishes that can occur. Steve Nobel who responded previously to your posting is a well recognized person on this forum and I'm sure his reply would also be most helpful to you. I hope this has been helpful to you in your quest to resolve your painting issues. - John

Thanks John and everyone for the thoughtful advice..very helpful! Chris