Driver's door window doesn't work

Activation the switch does nothing. Is this a switch issue?

2001 Suburban 1500

is the passenger window working

is the passenger window working

Yes

Most likely the switch. I would use an ohm meter to test the switch

Activation the switch does nothing. Is this a switch issue?

2001 Suburban 1500


these door window units are a common failure item ...I have replaced a few...

open the door panel and using a meter check for voltage at the door motor connector..with the switch depressed..

check the steel cables for damage...

then give the window motor a good hit when depressing the switch ..if it begins to work you will need a new window regulator unit..

1AAUTO has these ..I got 2 for 130.oo ..better than OEM and much cheaper..

these door window units are a common failure item ...I have replaced a few...

open the door panel and using a meter check for voltage at the door motor connector..with the switch depressed..

check the steel cables for damage...

then give the window motor a good hit when depressing the switch ..if it begins to work you will need a new window regulator unit..

1AAUTO has these ..I got 2 for 130.oo ..better than OEM and much cheaper..

The switch clicks when I push it, so I think it may be working. Can anyone point me to directions on how to get the door panel trim off?

The switch clicks when I push it, so I think it may be working. Can anyone point me to directions on how to get the door panel trim off?

lift up on the switch panel plastic pops off. remove the other plastic parts around the handle . also the triangle piece near the door mirror, then unscrew the screws .. lift the door panel up to remove..easier with the window down..

pull panel away from the door frame slightly to find any screws still holding...

I got the switch unit out of the truck, but I'm having difficulty removing the back. Even with the tabs removed from their holes, I can't pull it apart. Someone suggested I swap switches with the passenger door, but this things just got a circuit board on it. How can I test that switch, or is there something else I should be looking at?

I guess the only way to check if the window mechanism works is to jump the terminals in the connector. Does anyone know the colors of the wires coming from the driver's door window motor? A new switch is over $100.

I got the switch unit out of the truck, but I'm having difficulty removing the back. Even with the tabs removed from their holes, I can't pull it apart. Someone suggested I swap switches with the passenger door, but this things just got a circuit board on it. How can I test that switch, or is there something else I should be looking at?

I guess the only way to check if the window mechanism works is to jump the terminals in the connector. Does anyone know the colors of the wires coming from the driver's door window motor? A new switch is over $100.

WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE AT THE WINDOW MOTOR?????? this is the next step...when the switch is depressed..................

WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE AT THE WINDOW MOTOR?????? this is the next step...when the switch is depressed..................

Pulled the plug on the window motor and inserted the probes into the connector. With the switch operated I am getting 12V. There is some corrosion on the motor. Does this mean I have to replace the motor? Everything else looks good. If the motor is the problem, could I replace it with one from one of the rear doors? The passenger door?

Pulled the plug on the window motor and inserted the probes into the connector. With the switch operated I am getting 12V. There is some corrosion on the motor. Does this mean I have to replace the motor? Everything else looks good. If the motor is the problem, could I replace it with one from one of the rear doors? The passenger door?

ok now your getting down to the open the wallet, as the next step.

1A AUTO has these . this is where I get my window door regulators as they call them..this is how it is repaired.. not too hard to do..


with the window held in the up position firmly, with duct tape etc remove the assy ..then install the new one..

this takes 1hr max...then after you do this one, the passengerside one will only take 30-45min.......

use white lithium grease on all the cables and slides..spray the rubber track with silicone ...............

ok now your getting down to the open the wallet, as the next step.

1A AUTO has these . this is where I get my window door regulators as they call them..this is how it is repaired.. not too hard to do..


with the window held in the up position firmly, with duct tape etc remove the assy ..then install the new one..

this takes 1hr max...then after you do this one, the passengerside one will only take 30-45min.......

use white lithium grease on all the cables and slides..spray the rubber track with silicone ...............

OK.

1. Why can't I just buy the motor without the whole regulator? I can get that from Rockauto.com for only about $25. The rest of the mechanism looks fine.

2. Why do I need to do the passenger side too? It's working fine.

BTW, thank's for all your help with this.

OK.

1. Why can't I just buy the motor without the whole regulator? I can get that from Rockauto.com for only about $25. The rest of the mechanism looks fine.

2. Why do I need to do the passenger side too? It's working fine.

BTW, thank's for all your help with this.

I never could replace the motor on my vehicles repaired. perhaps you can. also the motor failure is one possibility the other is the cables breaking.

driver window goes first normaly then soon after the passenger side. thats why I said when you do the passengerside It will take less time.

this should have been a recall..

I never could replace the motor on my vehicles repaired. perhaps you can. also the motor failure is one possibility the other is the cables breaking.

driver window goes first normaly then soon after the passenger side. thats why I said when you do the passengerside It will take less time.

this should have been a recall..

I have the new regulator & motor from 1AAuto in. One question: do I leave the zip tie connecting the 2 cables (forming an X) on?

I have the new regulator & motor from 1AAuto in. One question: do I leave the zip tie connecting the 2 cables (forming an X) on?

yes that should be there to keep them secure , grease the steel cables... spray the rubber guides with silicone spray..

grease the steel cables... spray the rubber guides with silicone spray..

1AAuto said that was unnecessary, and as it's all closed up, I am going with their recommendation.

1AAuto said that was unnecessary, and as it's all closed up, I am going with their recommendation.

what do they know !

they sell parts not make repairs.

my suggestion is based on years of knowledge with these devices.

the cables in the rust belt do rust out then fail ..bad for you / good for the part supplier ..........

what do they know !

they sell parts not make repairs.

my suggestion is based on years of knowledge with these devices.

the cables in the rust belt do rust out then fail ..bad for you / good for the part supplier ..........

My original cables and regulator looked fine- no rust. The only problem was the motor. I made sure to seal the door carefully with the original plastic sheet and some plastic weather sealing tape.

have no idea why this took days.
it's known issue with GM window regulators. they just go bad. internet sells them for around $70 each.
it's about 10 minutes job. i had both of them done, one by one, at around 70K miles.
take the panel off, disconnect the plugs, be very careful with the little courtesy light in the bottom door panel corner, easy to fall out, hard to get back in.
disconnect 2 bolts holding window to regulator, four bolts holding regulator to door frame, pop it in, fold, twist it out, twist new one in, unfold, connect to frame. attach window. make sure window sits in the guides, it's easy to pop out, then it'll give you trouble and it's a do over.
if you need to secure window in place, use masking tape to tape it to the outside door.
one of them grabbing tools comes handy, one that looks like claw on spiral handle. when you drop a nut down into door.

Already completed this repair. One question: Did you grease the new cables when you put them in?

I bought my new regulator and motor for $30 off of ebay (works great btw.) My motor was fine but my regulator was shot.

I didn't grease anything up as it already had grease on it.

I bought a passenger side one as well for $30 however I haven't had to replace it yet... figured it'd be good to have on hand.