Is this the transmission problem?

i have a 1998 buick regal GS and recently when i left work i was driving to get dinner and as i pulled from the light it felt as if the car was in neutral all it did was rev not move and im sure it was in drive i even tried shifting it a few times then i turned the car of then back on and i drove a block or to then it did it again as i try to gas it it just revs. bad transmission?

please help me before saturday and i just get the transmissin fixed

Bring the engine to operating temperature, then check the transmission fluid level, could just be low on fluid.

Also check the vacuum hose running from below the IAC valve to the fuel pressure regulator and to the transmission modulator. You can easily see the modulator if you look down from the upper radiator hose. If it is loose or cracked/roted it can develop vacuum leaks and cause shifting problems.

How long since you last replaced the transmission fluid, the filter may be getting blocked and that can cause slipping too.

Best regads,

Oscar.

Also check the vacuum hose running from below the IAC valve to the fuel pressure regulator and to the transmission modulator. You can easily see the modulator if you look down from the upper radiator hose. If it is loose or cracked/roted it can develop vacuum leaks and cause shifting problems.

How long since you last replaced the transmission fluid, the filter may be getting blocked and that can cause slipping too.

Best regads,

Oscar.

The OP's car probably has a 4T65E transmission, so it does not have a vacuum modulator on the transmission. Even if it did, all the modulator affects is the stiffness of the upshifts. It would not cause a sudden catastrophic failure.

I agree with the suggestion to check the fluid level and go from there.

Didn't know about the 4T65E not having a vacuum modulator, however it DID cause that on my pontiac when the vacuum line cracked.

Best regards,

Oscar.

Thanks a million will check and let you guess know

fluids gud

Test cold and hot solenoid resistances for the "A" and "B" shift solenoids and the PWM solenoid. Test line pressure at the top test port both hot and cold. Make sure the filter upper seal is intact and pickup tube is not cracked. Verify the accumulator is not leaking and oil tubes are intact. Verify the forward band servo is moving freely and has correct pin clearance.

All this can be done with the unit still in the vehicle.

my mechanic sudgested a transmission tune or where they change the filter, flush it and put new fluid. start there?

Also check the vacuum hose running from below the IAC valve to the fuel pressure regulator and to the transmission modulator. You can easily see the modulator if you look down from the upper radiator hose. If it is loose or cracked/roted it can develop vacuum leaks and cause shifting problems.

How long since you last replaced the transmission fluid, the filter may be getting blocked and that can cause slipping too.

Best regads,

Oscar.

my mechanic sudgested a transmission tune or where they change the filter, flush it and put new fluid. start there?

That would be a good place to start, as you can see it was suggested before, if the oil and filter are the problem, it will be cheaper than taking down the whole transmission only to see it is in a good condition. If it's not then it will still be fresh oil which I believe it can be used on a transmission overhaul.

Best regards,

Oscar.

That would be a good place to start, as you can see it was suggested before, if the oil and filter are the problem, it will be cheaper than taking down the whole transmission only to see it is in a good condition. If it's not then it will still be fresh oil which I believe it can be used on a transmission overhaul.

Best regards,

Oscar.

my mechanic said the transmission fluid was very dark like oil not redish at all and we went on to say he dont think its the transmission going bad do to the fact the transmission only slips when the car has been drivin for atleast 10-15 minutes and once the car go off and come back on it drives normal for another 5 minutes..... tune up monday

Again, while the pan is off and filter is removed, check the oil tubes and accumulators for leakage, and remove the forward servo cover to check the servo piston seals for leakage and for piston binding. While the piston is out you inspect the pin for wear. Any transmission shop and most good general mechanical repair shops should be able to do that easily. It only requires removing another 6-8 bolts from within the pan area, and getting the dirty oil out of the accumulators is a good idea.

Personally, I would avoid the temptation of having them perform a powered flush and only have the pan and filter removed to drain by gravity.

he did it the way you said and it runs perfect also got the catalyc converter change just cause the code came up fixing total was 374.38 LOL

thanks you guys a million once again