Bov

K i HATE my BOV sound..lol Let me try and descibe what it sounds like. It's like Chi chi chi chi chi. Not the Pa Chi lol. There a way of adjusting the bov to change the sound? Or is it the bov spring? I was thinking it's cause IM only running 5psi and not pushing enough boost for the Pa chi. Or does adjusting the vac line do it?

K i HATE my BOV sound..lol Let me try and descibe what it sounds like. It's like Chi chi chi chi chi. Not the Pa Chi lol. There a way of adjusting the bov to change the sound? Or is it the bov spring? I was thinking it's cause IM only running 5psi and not pushing enough boost for the Pa chi. Or does adjusting the vac line do it?

You can not 'adjust' the vac line to the BOV.

Looking at the Turbonetics BOV, it looks like it is adjustable. It almost sounds like either A) it's opening to quickly, or B) the chi chi chi is compressor surge, where the BOV basically isn't opening soon enough. The air needs to be released, and if it has no place to go, it goes back into the turbo, and will destroy it.

I would turn the screw to adjust it and see what happens. Try small adjustments each time.

Yea I hope thats not compressor surge. Try to loosen up the spring some if you can. However some bovs do sound like that on low boost levels so you might also want to rev it while under the hood and make sure it is in fact releasing air.

Yea I hope thats not compressor surge. Try to loosen up the spring some if you can. However some bovs do sound like that on low boost levels so you might also want to rev it while under the hood and make sure it is in fact releasing air.
Ya I have giving it some gas at a sit still and the BOV wont go off. So I adjust the spring just but unscrewing the back end of the bov?

I just adjusted the spring and it still makes that same sound. Guessing it's just cause low psi. But the guy who had it before me could make it go off just by reving it. I think he was on 5psi also.

Well, I called turboxs and the guy said to take some of the washers out where the spring is. He said 4 to 5 should be enough. Which there was 10 in there to begin with. Guess the guy I bought it from put that many. Turbosx guy said that was way to much. But even with 5 washers, it still makes the same sound. He said that it's just that type of BOV. It's going to make that sound. Guess IM going to get a new one. I hear a type s is good.

If you post of a vid of the sound, it would help out a lot. You said you took out washers, but did you actually adjust the screw? And when you rev it at idle, can you feel air coming out of it when the rpms are dropping? If there's no air coming out, its surely not opening and NEEDS to be adjusted more.

If you post of a vid of the sound, it would help out a lot. You said you took out washers, but did you actually adjust the screw? And when you rev it at idle, can you feel air coming out of it when the rpms are dropping? If there's no air coming out, its surely not opening and NEEDS to be adjusted more.

The guy told me that the tension for the spring should stay as tight as I can get it. There is no screw, what I have to do is just loosen the backend of the BOV. And when I rev it does nothing. It piston just sits there. Only time it goes off is when IM driving down the road. MY bov is 2nd from the the bottom the type h34 http://turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=2 the whole top cap of it is what I adjust, but like I said the guy at turboxs said to leave it tight which really doesn't sound right to me. I'll try to record the sound this weekend.

K here is a vid. You might need to turn your sound up some to hear it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUcP7HWxOss

Oh ya does it matter how I have the IC piping going? I have the right to the turbo and the left to the intake. Is the air just going the wrong way? And is there a certain distance the bov has to be away from the intake. Mine is by my battery.

Sounds like compressor surge to me.

Sounds like compressor surge to me.

I have done everything. Taken washers out, put washers in. Just wondering if my piping is wrong or what?

Take a picture of the engine bay and post it.

Do you have another bov to try?

Take a picture of the engine bay and post it.

Do you have another bov to try?

Naw thats the only one I have. Going to take some pics and post them real fast.
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11430.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11428.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11426.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11424.jpg

Problem 1: TurboXS
Problem 2: Too tight

The BOV should not release at idle (shame, guys) unless you're running a super small turbo. Positive manifold pressure needs to be built.

That said, problem 1 should be addressed ASAP.

Problem 1: TurboXS
Problem 2: Too tight

The BOV should not release at idle (shame, guys) unless you're running a super small turbo. Positive manifold pressure needs to be built.

That said, problem 1 should be addressed ASAP.

The spring is to tight? Shouldn't it go off with just pushing on the gas with car in neutral. I have seen alot that can.

The spring is to tight? TurboXS uses a silly washer/spring combo. Please note the first problem I cited...



Shouldn't it go off with just pushing on the gas with car in neutral. I have seen alot that can.


The BOV should not release at idle (shame, guys) unless you're running a super small turbo. Positive manifold pressure needs to be built.

See like this. This is the same BOV I have. http://www.streetfire.net/video/turbo-xs-type-h-rfl-bov-on-turbo-ecotec-cavalier_126522.htm

Mine does not move at all. Only time it moves of course is with no washers. And it barely moves then.

If you're not going to read what I write, I'm done writing. Sorry.

I was never able to get my car to blow off at idle unless I studderbox'd it.

Just get a different flange pipe and bov and call it a day. I loved my Greddy RS. my .02

If you're not going to read what I write, I'm done writing. Sorry.

I am reading what u write. Basicly ur telling me give up and spend more money. IM trying to get around that. All you answered was how Turboxs is crap and the spring is to tight. There is noway I can try and fix it with those answers.

I have heard good things about turboxs. I know there is someway in fixing this. Instead of putting down products (which I read you always do) try and help some1. Just because it's a product you don't like, ur answer is always the same, to trash it and get another one. :screwy:

Now this BOV I have isn't that old so there is no point in just buyin a new one.

I was never able to get my car to blow off at idle unless I studderbox'd it.

Just get a different flange pipe and bov and call it a day. I loved my Greddy RS. my .02

Ya I think IM going to get the Greddy type s if I can't get this fixed. It looks and and sounds nice.

Do you have a good vac source going to the bov? I can get mine to blow off in neutral and I run a holset turbo. Doesn't build boost unless on the studderbox but it does move a good bit of air out the bov. I have never seen that bov in person but can you see the piston if you look in the bov? I can see mine on the type s and I know that when I rev it a little and it pulls a lot of vac dereving the piston open just as it should if you were driving it. If it doesn't open then the spring must be to tight still or something

I am reading what u write. Basicly ur telling me give up and spend more money. IM trying to get around that. All you answered was how Turboxs is crap and the spring is to tight. There is noway I can try and fix it with those answers.

I have heard good things about turboxs. I know there is someway in fixing this. Instead of putting down products (which I read you always do) try and help some1. Just because it's a product you don't like, ur answer is always the same, to trash it and get another one. :screwy:

Now this BOV I have isn't that old so there is no point in just buyin a new one.

Good enough. This explains why your car doesn't, and hasn't, run properly since you've posted here.

I trash things that deserve to get trashed. Seeing as I've owned 2 RFLs and 2 HBV34s over the life of my DSMs (going on 13 years of messing with them), perhaps I know EXACTLY how they are built, as well as their drawbacks. But hey, if you think you know better...

Feel free to cite other times, since you've apparently been able to read this whole time, where I trashed something without basis.

The truth is, you don't listen for shit. I'm not here to pump you full of sunshine and rainbows, I'm here to offer a piece of knowledge on a product, or try to help with other issues.

Problem 1: TurboXS
Problem 2: Too tight

The BOV should not release at idle (shame, guys) unless you're running a super small turbo. Positive manifold pressure needs to be built.

That said, problem 1 should be addressed ASAP.

Do you have a good vac source going to the bov? I can get mine to blow off in neutral and I run a holset turbo. Doesn't build boost unless on the studderbox but it does move a good bit of air out the bov. I have never seen that bov in person but can you see the piston if you look in the bov? I can see mine on the type s and I know that when I rev it a little and it pulls a lot of vac dereving the piston open just as it should if you were driving it. If it doesn't open then the spring must be to tight still or something

This is what I was talking about. Obviously not building boost at idle, but when reving, my stock 1G BOV opened while dereving.

Problem 1: TurboXS
Problem 2: Too tight

The BOV should not release at idle (shame, guys) unless you're running a super small turbo. Positive manifold pressure needs to be built.

That said, problem 1 should be addressed ASAP.

Agreed, friend had the turbo xs on his bugeye, got rid of it within the first week.:banghead:

Careful, unless you want to be accused of trashing things.

Pro-tip: research THEN buy, folks.

Didn't trash it, sold it haha, and used it to buy another!

I can understand why he wants to save the cash and save what he already has.

Just sell the one you have (as long as it's not junk/garbage/real garbage i.e. rotten hamburger) and use the money to put towards a good new or used Greddy if you like them. Make sure if you buy used, that's its a legit one and not a knock off.

I can understand why he wants to save the cash and save what he already has.

Just sell the one you have (as long as it's not junk/garbage/real garbage i.e. rotten hamburger) and use the money to put towards a good new or used Greddy if you like them. Make sure if you buy used, that's its a legit one and not a knock off.

K I went ahead a bought the greddy type rs BOV and it makes the same sound the turboxs did. The vac line is running to the BOV hopefully right. But I ran out of 90 deg elbows to run vac lines together. Had to use a t-off. So I have an extra line running that I have tied off (not to long). So it doesn't matter were the piping from the IC runs to motor and turbo? Just wondering if the air is running wrong or something. For 2 bov to make same sound just doesn't seem right. And oh. Now that the new BOV is on my boost gauge went from -20 at idle to right at 0.
Thanx

Ment to add that I have the BOV, boost gauge and FMU all running on same vac source. Should I not be?

I was just taking a look at my vac lines. IM running it from where the stock FPR is. But beside it to the right there is another vac source (guessing to the EGR). I can just run the BOV and boost gauge to that one and keep the FMU on the one it's on now by itself? Like this http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/420ATurboVac-BoostLines3.jpg And this is how I was told to run my IC, which the right pipe in this pic is running to intake and my right pipe is running to turbo.http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/ci20420a20turbo20kit203-1.jpg

The piping your previous pictures look fine. So the RS does a chu chu chu? Try loosening the set screw in the top of the bov. Loosen it up a couple threads then take a drive. If it does it less then loosen up a little more. Mine would do that but only under a little boost (5 lbs or so), but under full boost she would let out the normal ffffpshhhh

Ya I loosened the screw after I drove it the first time and it still did the chu chu chu. But didn't have time to play with it more cause I had to go to work and it's 30 deg outside..lol But going to rerun my van lines and play around with the set screw and let ya know what happends.

Nothing should tee into the BOV line. Tee the boost gauge into the FMU.

Nothing should tee into the BOV line. Tee the boost gauge into the FMU.
Then just run my BOV with my EGR be ok? Cause thats the only other vac source I know of. Unless theres another source to run it off.

I had my vacuum run like this with the 3 ports on the intake mani...

- SFMU, Boost Gauge, MegaSquirt
- EGR (eventually blocked off so went to MS)
- BOV

I had my vacuum run like this with the 3 ports on the intake mani...

- SFMU, Boost Gauge, MegaSquirt
- EGR (eventually blocked off so went to MS)
- BOV
That's the right way....minus that silly EGR nonsense. ;)

I had my vacuum run like this with the 3 ports on the intake mani...

- SFMU, Boost Gauge, MegaSquirt
- EGR (eventually blocked off so went to MS)
- BOV

Thats like german to me..lol What is megasquirt and MS? IM only seeing 2 vac sources on manifold. I just re-ran my vac lines. Got fmu on vac source with stock fpr and boost gauge/BOV on EGR vac source and WG to Turbo. Nothing changed. Whats crazy is when I drove it down the rode the vac source to the BOV fell off vac nimple (forgot to tie it down) and without vac source to BOV it still was making the chi chi chi sound. My old BOV was at -20 at idle and now it's at 0. Any1 got pics of how there vac source is ran. Will help out alot.

Oh isn't there a vac source right by the throttle? Can't I use that?

Thats like german to me..lol What is megasquirt and MS? IM only seeing 2 vac sources on manifold. I just re-ran my vac lines. Got fmu on vac source with stock fpr and boost gauge/BOV on EGR vac source and WG to Turbo. Nothing changed. Whats crazy is when I drove it down the rode the vac source to the BOV fell off vac nimple (forgot to tie it down) and without vac source to BOV it still was making the chi chi chi sound. My old BOV was at -20 at idle and now it's at 0. Any1 got pics of how there vac source is ran. Will help out alot.

Oh isn't there a vac source right by the throttle? Can't I use that?


If your vac source for the BOV fell off and it made the same exact sound then the BOV isn't opening, which again, means bad vac or BOV too tight.

BOV at -20? You mean your vacuum was at -20? If it's now at 0, that means it's not getting a reading, which means there's a leak somewhere.

Vac by the throttle is for emissions only. Leave that be.

As far as my setup compared to yours, it doesn't matter what MS or megasquirt is. There are 3 nipples coming off the back of the intake mani, closest to the passenger side. Just use those for vacuum.

Basically, all these problems are related. There's something not right in the mix, that's causing all your vac systems (gauge/bov, whatever) to fail.

Thanx dave. Ya I see the third vac source on the intake mani, the middle one is capped off. I'll just use that for the BOV and see what happends.

Well it's sounding like it works now. It's just not really loud. That just cause IM running low boost?

Well it's sounding like it works now. It's just not really loud. That just cause IM running low boost?

Low boost, location, and the direction the BOV is facing will all play a part in how loud it is inside the car.

Low boost, location, and the direction the BOV is facing will all play a part in how loud it is inside the car.
Ya it still as one little "chi" then it goes ffffpshhhh.