evil LMM decals

I am getting ready to decal a LeMans Miniature kit and wanted to know if anyone has any tricks to getting LMM decals to soften and conform to curved surfaces.

I have tried Microscale MicroSol, which wont soften them, and menthylated spirit (recommended by LMM), AKA denatured alcohol. The denatured alcohol softened the decal film, but attacked the underlying lacquer and acrylic enamel auto paint. I have searched this forum and the internet, but found no additional information.

So, does anyone have a method/material that works for them? Also, what clear coats work without bubbling the decals?

I dont understand why a company that has been in business as long as LMM hasn't improved the most complained about thing with their products (decals).

The method that has worked best for me over the years is to use a steaming hot tissue or cloth pressed over the decal once it is positioned. I use a small elctric pot to keep close to boiling water, then dip the cloth and damp off the excess water on a paper towel and then press the decal. It will conform and lay down instantly with no wrinkles. Do not hold against for more than a second or two or it may cause some damage to the surface layer of the decal. A Q-tip can used for smaller areas. This works on any brand of decal without fail. Also you can use hair dryer on the lowest setting, making sure to keep it moving and not overheat the model. I needed this method allot on cars like the JAACS Accord, I couldn't have done it without it. As for clear I only use Future on my models with some Zymol brand wax over that. For info on using Future check this link http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
It's the safest clear coat there is. It can be removed with ammonia(which will not touch any paints except Tamiya Acrylics). I have learned to carefully wipe it on.

Try with Gunze mark softer (bottle with green top).
Maybe make a first test over a spare LMM decal and see the result. If too strong u can thineer it with a 10-20% water.
Imho Gunze softer is the best one for decal apply over cars,just be careful cause sometimes and with some films (ie. alps) is too strong and burns,

I've been able to get them to conform with a liberal dose of Microsol and a bit of heat. I use a small bathroom heater instead of a hair dryer, it doesn't get quite as hot and doesn't blow as hard either. As for the clear coat, I usually use Model Master Clear lacquer (silver wrapper with purple stripe). I don't think it's quite as hot as the new formula lacquers. It did attack decals once though, and it was a LMM kit so Future may be your safest option.

Mike

I am getting ready to decal a LeMans Miniature kit and wanted to know if anyone has any tricks to getting LMM decals to soften and conform to curved surfaces.



I have tried Microscale MicroSol, which wont soften them, and menthylated spirit (recommended by LMM), AKA denatured alcohol. The denatured alcohol softened the decal film, but attacked the underlying lacquer and acrylic enamel auto paint. I have searched this forum and the internet, but found no additional information.

So, does anyone have a method/material that works for them? Also, what clear coats work without bubbling the decals?

I dont understand why a company that has been in business as long as LMM hasn't improved the most complained about thing with their products (decals).

There is a product I like to use for setting "snuggling" down decals called "Solvaset" it is sold under that name here in the USA and is used mostly by model railroad hobbiests for the box car decals. Make sure it is a fresh bottle as I have heard that it goes off with time - but I have not experienced that myself as my bottle is 10 years old and still works. Also one you apply it to the decal leave it alone to shrink down or you will damage the decals. - you can find Solvaset at model railroad stores or online - hope this helps - John