More interior lighting problems

A while back all of my interior lights stopped working. I found a blue wire under the passenger side carpet that was broke. Recently just the upper lights in the ceiling stopped working. The ones under the dash at your feet still worked as well as the switched map reading lights. Pulled up the carpeting and found a gray wire broke. Lights are back on again. This is the 6th wire to be repaired under the carpet.

A while back all of my interior lights stopped working. I found a blue wire under the passenger side carpet that was broke. Recently just the upper lights in the ceiling stopped working. The ones under the dash at your feet still worked as well as the switched map reading lights. Pulled up the carpeting and found a gray wire broke. Lights are back on again. This is the 6th wire to be repaired under the carpet.
Where's the bow-down smilie?

You got a lot more patience then me! How in the world does a wire break?!

Under the passenger side carpeting is a big cluster of wires. What happens is water gets in there and corrodes the wires then they eventually break apart. I've had to repair many of them over the years. Now I got another one that must be broke in the last few days because the power door locks will not unlock from either the drivers or passenger door lock switches.

Hey, if you get around to solving that unlock problem, post it please? I've got the reverse issue--can't LOCK the doors with the button. Only the driver's door will lock, not the rest. Of course, just to compound the issue, the doors lock automatically when you put it in drive. That makes it both not a real issue for me and not easy to figure out where to look either. . .

I dont think the door lock SWITCH wires run low enough to be in the bundle in issue. The motors REQUIRE both wires to be a completed circuit for both lock and unlock, so since one mode works, that wouldnt be it either.

IIRC the old style switches passed the signal thru the other switch, but I think this application uses a BCM to control the motors and one switch wouldnt kill the other?

Does the other switch in the other door work? Do the remotes work?
1. if other switch works, replace the defective switch.
2. if remotes works, inspect wiring from BCM to the switches, possible bad BCM.
3. if neither unit works, suspect bad BCM.

Key remotes work fine.
It locks the doors when moving out of part and unlocks them when going into park.
Both door lock switches lock the Doors. But both lock switches will not unlock them.

Key remotes work fine.
It locks the doors when moving out of part and unlocks them when going into park.
Both door lock switches lock the Doors. But both lock switches will not unlock them.


Seem to remember some other vehicle's circuits that the passenger switch went through the driver's switch, in one way or another. Is it possible that a bad driver's switch would effect the unlock function on both sides?

I dont think the door lock SWITCH wires run low enough to be in the bundle in issue. The motors REQUIRE both wires to be a completed circuit for both lock and unlock, so since one mode works, that wouldnt be it either.

IIRC the old style switches passed the signal thru the other switch, but I think this application uses a BCM to control the motors and one switch wouldnt kill the other?

Does the other switch in the other door work? Do the remotes work?
1. if other switch works, replace the defective switch.
2. if remotes works, inspect wiring from BCM to the switches, possible bad BCM.
3. if neither unit works, suspect bad BCM.

Nuff said.... I would still look at the wiring for the switches tho..... Backprobe the BCM for the function that doesnt work from the door switch......

(Sbagdon) That's exactly what I figured and need to test it yet. I'll reply back with my findings.

Both switches on my 97 schematic show 2 lines to the BCM in parallel, a ground is placed on either of 2 wires to activate lock/ unlock respectively. I would pull one of the switches, jumper the black wire to the white for unlock, black to light blue for lock. If it passes this test (have the other switch unpluged ALSO), then something is jacked in both switches, test other side to confirm harness is good.

If it doesnt pass, pull the BCM down and repeat test AT BCM......

BTW the splice for the switches the Schem sez is BODY HARNESS UNDER LEFT FRONT SEAT 11/ 6 CM FROM SEAT BELT SWITCH BREAKOUT HARNESS.