2000 s-10 blazer overheat/no start

Ok...Here goes. Couple of weeks ago, got caught out of town with a hole in my radiator. Vehicle got extremely hot. AAA towed me in to a shop that replaced the radiator and coolant. More than once they had problems starting it. They did get it started, with starting fluid. Until I wanted to go home. It still has not started again. AAA towed me home and I began diagnosing... checked for trouble codes-none... checked for spark-good bright spark... checked fuel pressure-solid 60/61 psi, no drop... because of the heat I thought head gaskets... checked compression-highest reading approx 60 lbs dry, no increase after adding oil... went ahead and did the head job, had heads planed, no valves damaged, checked everything as I put it back together-no problems, everything went smoothly... tried to start it when I was done... my head dropped when I realized I was back to square 1... Vehicle will not start. Here we go again... Rechecked for spark-good... Fuel-the same...compression isn't as high as i would have thought but it ranges between 70-100... Timing was a tooth off, I corrected it... troubles codes - none... all I have is a code checker, no dianostic info... also if I unplug say the map sensor, I still get no codes... Could I have a ECM problem? Where should I go next? I am tired of this problem being in the back of mind, I could use any advise you could give me. I would like to thank you in advance for any knowledge you can offer.

what is the compression in all cylinders??are they all 70 - 100 that
sounds way to low.
what engine??how many miles??

Sorry... 4.3 ltr v-6 fuel injected (spider), 170145 miles I didn't write the compression down for each cylinder, the lowest was approx 70, the highest approx 100. I figured the heads would need run time to settle. I could be wrong. The wet compression test would of showed signs of bad rings. No fluid leaks to show signs of a crack. AAA repair shop had it running with the original compression readings, which were lower than the current ones. I have the same problem it had before the head job. Do you think the ECM has shut down? I cant get any codes out of it. Is there a way to check the ECM or the ALDL without a scan tool? Thanks for any advise you can give.

Is there a way to check the ECM or the ALDL without a scan tool?

not that i know of without a scanner but someone here will no
compression seems too low.... how did it run w/aaa?? maybe a valve not sealing
was the head pressure tested??

What AAA told me was they had problems starting it a couple of times but it ran fine. They had to use starting fluid to get it going. I paid my bill went out and tried to leave. It wouldn't start. They couldn't get it going again. After a couple of hours of them trying, I just had it towed home. I took the heads in and had them serviced at a machine shop. They told me the heads were fine just needed shaved. I would assume they would have told me if the valves were bad. Thanks again

so the engine ran good when it was running & all 6 cyl. have 100 psi compression or less????

The last time it ran was at the shop. I was told it ran good. After it was towed home, I did a compression check and all cylinders were 60 psi or less(dry) and there was no change when doing a wet compression test.

did you reset the computer after doing all that? i now you had to unhook the neg. to do all this. i'd try it one more time. is your spark blue or yellow? blue good yellow not good. and yes i maybe in coill or modue if bought at autozone but i use autozone to just some if it's cheaper and made good.

The last time it ran was at the shop. I was told it ran good. After it was towed home, I did a compression check and all cylinders were 60 psi or less(dry) and there was no change when doing a wet compression test.
you need to find the reason for low compression.if it got as hot as you say
i would think the machine shop atleast replaced valve seals ect.
you can do a leak down test to see where your leak is
possible crack or warped block
good luck

Sounds like you're getting spark and compression. The only thing left is fuel. Are you getting fuel? I know you said the pressure was good, but are you really getting fuel? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Can you smell gas when you try to crank it? How did you check the compression, did you use one of those hand held gages with the rubber tip that you cram into the spark plug hole or a screw in? Did you do a static test on the timing to see if everything is still lined up?