relay pinout for fuel pump

Trying to isolate my non-starting car.. Schrader valve is dry, no gas, no pressure. Fuse 18 under the hood (a relay, actually) is for the fuel pump, and I'm trying to determine whether it is faulty (had one die on my convert) or the pump itself is bad.. Unlike my other Olds, there is no diagram/pinout on the side of the relay, and of course, the relays are not the same - My old Olds had a 5 pin relay, the Alero uses a 4-pin relay. Anyone know the pinout so that I can try and hardwire the pump to run and bypass the relay temporarily?

Additionally, is there any kind of in-car access area to see the top of the fuel pump? Again, on my older Olds, there is a panel in the trunk/back seat area for access.. (a little beating on things never hurt, if ya can get to it!)

Had a similar problem with my 2000 not starting and the valve being about dry. Around 175,000 miles at the time. It was my fuel pump. :crying: Can't access it without dropping the tank unfortunately. That flippin pump ran me around $300 smackers plus labor to install. Didn't have time to do it myself. Replaced it and everything is fine now. Good luck but if you have highish miles its probably gonna be the pump. Check aleromod.com for help/suggestions, too. :smile:

Trying to isolate my non-starting car.. Schrader valve is dry, no gas, no pressure. Fuse 18 under the hood (a relay, actually) is for the fuel pump, and I'm trying to determine whether it is faulty (had one die on my convert) or the pump itself is bad.. Unlike my other Olds, there is no diagram/pinout on the side of the relay, and of course, the relays are not the same - My old Olds had a 5 pin relay, the Alero uses a 4-pin relay. Anyone know the pinout so that I can try and hardwire the pump to run and bypass the relay temporarily?

Additionally, is there any kind of in-car access area to see the top of the fuel pump? Again, on my older Olds, there is a panel in the trunk/back seat area for access.. (a little beating on things never hurt, if ya can get to it!)

You can go to Autozones . com (upper right hand conner) and register, then log in and lookup your car, the wiring diagrams are there. I did mine last week:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf
Good luck!

Cool, I'll give that a try.. Been searching all over the forums and reading related posts.. One thing I noticed, not sure how it happened, but I did end up getting the SECURITY light lit up, but doing the reset fixed it, still not starting.. Suspect it got triggered from all my attempts at starting it..

Car only has 75,000 miles on it, but suppose/suspect it still might be the pump :( Think I found the proper pins to bypass the relay (two closest to the center of the car), but I'll check that autozone site just to be sure.

Sadly, I don't drive the car enough to know or remember the specifics about it - Like, when I switch the ignition from off to on, I don't hear the pump in the back doing anything, but I don't know if it's loud enough to notice or not.. Things like that which you don't pay attention to till something's not working.

Cool, I'll give that a try.. Been searching all over the forums and reading related posts.. One thing I noticed, not sure how it happened, but I did end up getting the SECURITY light lit up, but doing the reset fixed it, still not starting.. Suspect it got triggered from all my attempts at starting it..

Car only has 75,000 miles on it, but suppose/suspect it still might be the pump :( Think I found the proper pins to bypass the relay (two closest to the center of the car), but I'll check that autozone site just to be sure.

Sadly, I don't drive the car enough to know or remember the specifics about it - Like, when I switch the ignition from off to on, I don't hear the pump in the back doing anything, but I don't know if it's loud enough to notice or not.. Things like that which you don't pay attention to till something's not working.

I can't say if its 4 or 5 pin, I just tested them all !

I can tell you what the amp draw is with the eng running, 6.8 is what I get. Got a new gagget today. (pict) You should be able to do the same thing with your meter, Just get a little creative with a fuse.

Quick check is to swap the suspect fuel pump relay with the A/C relay (should be same type). Or pull the relay out and use paper clip to jumper where pin 87 goes to where pin 30 goes. I believe the pin #'s are shown on the bottom of the relay.
Hope this helps.

Quick check is to swap the suspect fuel pump relay with the A/C relay (should be same type). Or pull the relay out and use paper clip to jumper where pin 87 goes to where pin 30 goes. I believe the pin #'s are shown on the bottom of the relay.
Hope this helps.
Yea I went with this route, quick and easy, sadly the results were, as well..

No change in the status, doesn't start, doesn't even 'cough' with the hint of any gas getting to it; Looks like I'll be following the handy pinned up guide to fuel pump replacement, soon as I can swing the funds to get the pump, heh :( Thanks everyone for your help. Ironic that the last day it was driven the tank was topped off :banghead:

Yea I went with this route, quick and easy, sadly the results were, as well..

No change in the status, doesn't start, doesn't even 'cough' with the hint of any gas getting to it; Looks like I'll be following the handy pinned up guide to fuel pump replacement, soon as I can swing the funds to get the pump, heh :( Thanks everyone for your help. Ironic that the last day it was driven the tank was topped off :banghead:


Will it start whit starting fluid, what about that crank sensor? I think the computer can tell the fuel pump not to work with out that signal. Any codes?????????

Will it start whit starting fluid, what about that crank sensor? I think the computer can tell the fuel pump not to work with out that signal. Any codes?????????
Don't have any on-hand, but when my wife gets home from work tonight, I'll pick some up and try it.
No idea how to test the crank sensor. How can I do that to eliminate that from the potential list? Didn't really think about the computer; not sure how it operates, just based my hunch off what I know.. Power getting to relay, relay known good used, no fuel pressure (at least on the left side testing point, on the passenger side - I read there should be two, one there and one on the right, but I've searched high and low and see no valve on the left (drivers) side, just for mentioning.. I'm game for any/plenty more testing, nothing but time, sadly, without the ride running, lol. Oh, and nothing to make/throw codes (IE no scan tool here) and unable to drive it to Autozone (sighs). I love cars.

Don't have any on-hand, but when my wife gets home from work tonight, I'll pick some up and try it.
No idea how to test the crank sensor. How can I do that to eliminate that from the potential list? Didn't really think about the computer; not sure how it operates, just based my hunch off what I know.. Power getting to relay, relay known good used, no fuel pressure (at least on the left side testing point, on the passenger side - I read there should be two, one there and one on the right, but I've searched high and low and see no valve on the left (drivers) side, just for mentioning.. I'm game for any/plenty more testing, nothing but time, sadly, without the ride running, lol. Oh, and nothing to make/throw codes (IE no scan tool here) and unable to drive it to Autozone (sighs). I love cars.

Have you noticed the dash light come on?

O'Riles auto parts around here lets you take it home but you have to leave a deposit of 250 bucks. Gotta buddy thats got one!!!

I dont know alot about your car, I have a cutlass 3.1 sfi, mine was easy just hooked up a meter (set to AC volts) to the 2 leads on the plug, it will show the signal when the eng is cranked. either it works are it dont!!!!

If it dont work remove the wire and Ohm it, if wire is ok. replace the sonsor. Maybe 15 bucks

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/crankshaft_position_sensors/crank_cam_sensors_1.php

Hard to say on the dash lights, if you mean like the check engine light or service engine soon light.. I'm among the many Alero owners who suffer from bear bearing syndrome, err.. No trac-control/speed sensor problem.. So those lights are always on unfortunately. All I can offer to ya is that prior to this morning, the only problem noticed was the last time it was driven, where it took about 10 seconds to start, ran perfectly fine, sat (off) an hour between errands, and then when restarted (again, about an hour after it ran last) it took maybe 5-7 seconds to start - Noticibly longer than a couple cranks and startup, enough to make me think, hmm, does her car always do that? Drove it home from the errands, and it sat a couple days.. Went out today and, well, you know the rest.. Didn't run rough, didn't have any hesitation or anything with the throttle/performance, thing ran fine minus the longer than expected startup.

I've attached a pic with what I think is the sensors connector, based on searches on google.. I'm not real familiar with the car, either, sadly.. If you someone could verify that's the sensor connector I need to check, I'll dig into it. (see attached photo) With all the high-tech crap in em nowadays I'm somewhat lost, and certainly under-tooled, equipment-wise. So please bear with me and be understanding.. I know I'm throwing out some stuff that many of you are like, 'doh, is this guy serious', but yea, I don't have a real good understanding of the electrical systems of these 'modern day' cars, but point me in the right direction and I'll churn results. :grinyes: I really appreciate all your help!

Hard to say on the dash lights, if you mean like the check engine light or service engine soon light.. I'm among the many Alero owners who suffer from bear bearing syndrome, err.. No trac-control/speed sensor problem.. So those lights are always on unfortunately. All I can offer to ya is that prior to this morning, the only problem noticed was the last time it was driven, where it took about 10 seconds to start, ran perfectly fine, sat (off) an hour between errands, and then when restarted (again, about an hour after it ran last) it took maybe 5-7 seconds to start - Noticibly longer than a couple cranks and startup, enough to make me think, hmm, does her car always do that? Drove it home from the errands, and it sat a couple days.. Went out today and, well, you know the rest.. Didn't run rough, didn't have any hesitation or anything with the throttle/performance, thing ran fine minus the longer than expected startup.

I've attached a pic with what I think is the sensors connector, based on searches on google.. I'm not real familiar with the car, either, sadly.. If you someone could verify that's the sensor connector I need to check, I'll dig into it. (see attached photo) With all the high-tech crap in em nowadays I'm somewhat lost, and certainly under-tooled, equipment-wise. So please bear with me and be understanding.. I know I'm throwing out some stuff that many of you are like, 'doh, is this guy serious', but yea, I don't have a real good understanding of the electrical systems of these 'modern day' cars, but point me in the right direction and I'll churn results. :grinyes: I really appreciate all your help!





Your gonna have to go over to autozone site and jump threw all the hoops and get the info on you olds, need to know what eng and vin to get right info.

The picture looks like a cam sensor to me, you want crank sensor
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8036e835

I replaced my fuel pump on my 2000 Alero/3.4L last year, went with the Airtex E3507M from Amazon $150. Followed the how-to posts on this forum, they helped a lot. You definitely want to drain out as much gas as you can, but I'll tell you I had a hard time doing that.
Before you buy a new pump, you may want to verify that the relay is clicking (to supply power to the pump). Have someone turn the key on while you listen/feel the relay, if it's not clicking it could be bad/no signal to the relay.
You could pull the relay out, and measure voltage from where pin 85 goes to ground. When key is turned on, should be +12 to pin 85.
Hope this helps.