Wheel Bearings

While my car was dead due to fuel pump problems, I borrowed my Dad's car. His is the exact same car as mine (1999 Regal GS), but with about 125,000 less KM on it than mine. After getting my car back together and taking it for a test drive, I'm convinced my wheel bears are gone, due to the noise while driving in the front end. What's the best way to determine what side needs replacing? (unless of course both are shot)

Thanks

jack it up and see witch side has play but not always shows play just your roar. also look at your outer axle boot see if either one is ripped. if cv joit go's bad it makes a clicking noise when you turn left or right.

While my car was dead due to fuel pump problems, I borrowed my Dad's car. His is the exact same car as mine (1999 Regal GS), but with about 125,000 less KM on it than mine. After getting my car back together and taking it for a test drive, I'm convinced my wheel bears are gone, due to the noise while driving in the front end. What's the best way to determine what side needs replacing? (unless of course both are shot)

Thanks

I just had to do the same.

Put wheel blocks on both sides of back wheels.
Jack up either side off the ground.
Start car and put it in gear. It need,s another person to listen as you stay in the car.
If it is the bad one you will know.(but check both)

When you change the bad one I really recommend using a torque wrench
(you will get longer life till it goes again)

Cheers
Stripe

I checked both sides of the car, and both sides have play in the wheels. I half expected both may been gone. Bearing are cheap enough, so going to change both sides.

I checked both sides of the car, and both sides have play in the wheels. I half expected both may been gone. Bearing are cheap enough, so going to change both sides.

Howdy, how did you check for play in the wheels. Did you check for any movement by grabbing the tire at the top (12oclock) and grabbing the tire by the bottom (6oclock) position. Any movement is more then likely a bad wheel bearing. They are not real hard to change. Just takes time. Good luck.

Howdy, how did you check for play in the wheels. Did you check for any movement by grabbing the tire at the top (12oclock) and grabbing the tire by the bottom (6oclock) position. Any movement is more then likely a bad wheel bearing. They are not real hard to change. Just takes time. Good luck.

I checked for play top to bottom & left to right, and got an equal amount of play all directions on both sides of the car. Bearings are cheap enough, so just going to replace them both.

I checked for play top to bottom & left to right, and got an equal amount of play all directions on both sides of the car. Bearings are cheap enough, so just going to replace them both.

It sure sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Before I changed my left front bearing it had only a little play. But after I got it off the car and spun the bearing you could fill the roughness. I think you are right on track with bad wheel bearings.

i'd just go ahead and replace both of them and have it done and over with. some people on here just don't get it. i might be one of them but i not pure stupid.

Well I got one side done. Took about 2 hours. It would have gone faster, but the hub was stuck. Took about 10 minutes to get it out, then another 10 minutes to get the electronics out. (ABS sensor) It was corroded pretty good. I had to clean the knuckle up to get the new hub in. One thing to note, the top bolt for the hub is a bugger to get to. I don't think I could have easily done this job without air tools.

Test drove the car, and I've not got ABS brakes. First time in a couple of years. Still noisy in the other side, so going to do it tomorrow. Also doing the front brakes as I go, as I also have warped rotors. I'll post an update once I get the other side done. I'm hoping it will come apart easier, but not betting any money on it. :tongue:

Other side complete. Car is nice and quiet now, and no more pulsing of the front brakes. This side went a little easier & faster than the first side. Would I do front wheel bearings again myself? I would give this one a yes.

Did you use the air impact tools on the axle nuts? What torque value did you use on the axle nut preload?

Did you use the air impact tools on the axle nuts? What torque value did you use on the axle nut preload?

I did use impact on the large axle nut, then torqued to 155 lbs.

What brand hubs and is the axle nut torque figure what the hub manufacturer recommended? The GM specificed torque value is 119 lb-ft for front hubs a new axle nut. I used AC Delco replacement hubs on our '99 Regal LS and used the 119 lb-ft figure.

I used Auto Sense hub units. They didn't come with any spec sheets. I used the torque that was called out here....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=668487

I assume that should be accurate? I didn't replace any of the bolts, just re-used the old ones. (3 hub bolts & 1 large axle nut) Should I undo that nut and adjust the torque?

Just noticed that the box has a note saying to use OEM torque specs. Please reconfirm what I should be using. From your comments, I'm worried that maybe I've made a mistake.

What torque values to use has been confusing through the years. The procedure at the link was written up with a 1997 factory service manual which specified 151 lb-ft. I think you'll be OK. I used the same procedure when I did the front hubs in my Grand Prix GTP and went with the 151 lb-ft. It hasn't self destructed yet. I used aftermarket BCA-National hubs on that one.

However, for some reason later on GM changed the torque value to 119 lb-ft which is what the 1999 factory service manual states. :screwy:

So I went with 119 lb-ft on our '99 LS but with AC Delco replacement hubs in early 2009. The Delco hubs came with 3 new hub to spindle bolts with threadlocker applied. I still had to purchase new axle nuts separately.

Very interesting that it's changed that much over the matter of a couple of years. Maybe to be safe, I'll loosen them up, and change it to 119 or so. Thanks for clarifying. May not be a bad idea to update that other thread to make sure there is no confusion.