Spyder/Tune-up done...

Have a 1996 Blazer. Replaced the following but still getting the "sputter/hesitation" at idle: Changed:
-Spyder (w/all fuel injectors) Kit (cleaned intake as well)
-MSD Spark Plug Wires
-Plugs
-Cap and Rotor.

Before changing the spyder she wouldn't keep running. Took her to the shop and was told I had a mis in cylinder 1 & 4, which is why I changed all the above.

Background: Had truck for six years and only had to change plug maybe three times, outside of regular oil changes of course. Anyway, I can't really complain, but I am a bit (P!$$%*) at this point.

Can anyone let me know what else could be the problem. Again, at idle or stop light she wants to cut off, but doesn't. But if I give her gas, now she flows like the wind; problem is just during a stand still.

Help please, what could this be?

* How do I tell if the distributor, or ignition coil is bad?*

Thanks in advance,

-TuType

Have a 1996 Blazer. Replaced the following but still getting the "sputter/hesitation" at idle: Changed:
-Spyder (w/all fuel injectors) Kit (cleaned intake as well)
-MSD Spark Plug Wires
-Plugs
-Cap and Rotor.

Before changing the spyder she wouldn't keep running. Took her to the shop and was told I had a mis in cylinder 1 & 4, which is why I changed all the above.

Background: Had truck for six years and only had to change plug maybe three times, outside of regular oil changes of course. Anyway, I can't really complain, but I am a bit (P!$$%*) at this point.

Can anyone let me know what else could be the problem. Again, at idle or stop light she wants to cut off, but doesn't. But if I give her gas, now she flows like the wind; problem is just during a stand still.

Help please, what could this be?

* How do I tell if the distributor, or ignition coil is bad?*

Thanks in advance,

-TuType

What brand of tune up parts?
Does it still have a miss on 1 and 4 cylinders?
How is fuel pressure?
Any check engine lights or codes?
Does it have good hot blue spark to all plugs?
Post back any codes and if missing on any cylinders?
Post back fuel pressure.
Post back brand of plugs used and dist cap.
If still miss on 1 and 4 cylinders check for lose of injector pulse on 1 and 4 or any othe cylinders.
Other thing to check is engine vacumn reading at idle and at 2K RPM.
Make sure EGR valve doed not stick open or have a carbon ball under plunger.
What dist does it have flat top or old style?
What engine and engine code and mileage on it?

Brand of tune up parts: AC Delco (OEM) plugs; Accel Cap & Rotor; MSD Spark Plug Wires # 5577 (http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=msd+wires&searchType=MkMdlYrSearch&redirect=false&N=1554891&mmySubSearch=on); Purolator Fuel Filter; I don't know how to check the following:
(1) Does it still have a miss on 1 and 4 cylinders?
(2) How is fuel pressure?
(3) Does it have good hot blue spark to all plugs?
* The code light is Not on.
(4) Fuel Pressure
(5) Engine vacumn reading at idle and at 2K RPM
(6) If EGR valve sticks open or have a carbon ball under plunger "where's the plunger?"
(7) The distributor cap is Accel Part # 120142 (Purchased from Advance Auto) http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_GM-Vortec-V6-Cap-Accel_22904295-P_192_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS_654685072___

Mileage is, 133,759, but no codes...

***This probem started after she set up for approximately 1 year*** Though I would start her up every now and then.

As always, your knowledge & help are greatly appreciated,

-TuType

You are welcome.
Best to use ac delco cap and rotor.
Best to use Delphi oem type fuel pump.
Airtex and after market have a high fail rate and low pressure.

EGR valve plunger is on botom of EGR valve.

You need to have it checked for codes and post back codes.
Watch for the engine cylinder miss readings and how many missfires and what cylinders missing.
You need to check it when it is acting up and find out if it is losing spark or fuel pressure

On fuel pressure get a fuel pressure gauge or have a shop run a full fuel pressure check or a sensor is acting up.
If it has any codes the code may point to problem.

The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.