1999 Regal starting issue

1999 Regal with about 250,000 km on it. First time I had the problem, it turned over for about 30 seconds before finally starting. Ran fine once started. Started fine the next few times. Next time I went to start it, it did start, but was hardly running, then it actually stalled. Turned the key again, and it started fine, and ran fine. Next few times started and ran fine. I've got a code reader, but it's at my Dad's house, so will pick it up tomorrow to see if anything shows. Any ideas what I can check in the short term?

Which model Regal do you have or engine (NA SII 3800 or supercharged SII 3800)?

Start by checking fuel pressure which varies depending on which engine you have.

Which model Regal do you have or engine (NA SII 3800 or supercharged SII 3800)?

Start by checking fuel pressure which varies depending on which engine you have.

I've got the Supercharged version. Would fuel pressure affect starting only? Once it starts properly, it runs fine. I guess I should go get a fuel pressure gauge.

On the L67 supercharged SII 3800 engine initial fuel pressure is critical for proper startup. At fuel pump prime (ignition to ON) you should see around 48-55 psi on the fuel pressure tester gauge connected to the Schrader valve located by the fuel pressure regulator on the front fuel rail. For hard or long startup you could have a defective fuel pressure regulator, leaking fuel injectors, or a bad one way check valve in the fuel pump assembly.

Also, the L67 has a two speed fuel pump. High speed is needed for startup. There is a fuel pump resistor in the circuit which you can bypass but based on your symptoms it doesn't appear to be the issue but you can try it. Let me know if you need a link to the procedure and we have old threads in history.

Update. Checked the fuel pressure, and with key turn, pressure gets up to about 50 PSI (with pump running). Once pump stops running, pressure is at about 43 PSI. Start the car up, and it stays around 43 PSI. Got my code reader, and is gave me a code of P1404. My manual for my reader doesn't go that high, so I expect it's car specific. I've left the guage on the car for now, and I'll see if the pressure drops with it just sitting there. (car sitting there without the keys even in it) I guess that should tell me if there's a leak somewhere.

Well I found out that the code I've got is for the EGR valve. Would this cause an issue like I'm getting? I'm thinking not. After letting the car sit for about an hour, it's lost 15-20 PSI. Is that normal, or is that an indication of what the actual problem may be?

Well went out to the car this morning to go to work, and the pump didn't come on at all. I guess I'll have to check the voltage at the pump to see if any power is getting back to it. Should it be 12-14V? Is it difficult to get the pump out of this car? Does the tank need to be dropped, or can it be accessed through the trunk?

I saw this link..

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=658282

For checking the relay. Mine is in a different location (link is not for regal), so bending pin not so easy, as other relay is beside it. I switched the 2 relays, as they've got the same part number), but still no difference. Fuel pump still didn't fire up. I read that there is a plug under the hood to test the fuel pump, but not sure exactly how that works.

edit - found the proper link for Regal. After reading, I can't just swap the relays. Will try again.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=943572

Bent the tab on the relay, but pump still didn't run. I looked under the hood for the test plug for the pump, but no luck.

I've now got into the trunk, and got access to the fuel pump. At first I wasn't sure what of the 2 plugs were for the pump, and what was for the fuel level, but after unplugging the one with 4 leads going to it, the cars fuel gauge went to empty, so that lead me to the conclusion that the plug with three leads going to it are for the pump. I couldn't check voltage for initial start up (I don't have enough arms) :lol: but voltage going to the pump with key turned on is 5 volts. I assume this to be correct, as the top of the unit said 5 volts on it. I would therefore have to come to the conclusion that the pump itself is no good. :crying:

Just to follow up with this thread (for anyones future reference), I've replaced the fuel pump, and car is now back up and running. One thing to note, taking old pump out is easy, no need to drop the tank, access is through the trunk, but getting the new pump in is a pain in the butt. The pumps are spring loaded, so your fighting the pressure of the spring trying to collaps the spring, and the O-ring is a bugger also. Between these 2 factors, not that fun at all.

Thanks for the feedback and glad you got it resolved. I found out the key to getting the fuel pump assembly in without it fighting you is to have the pump pod centered just right even with the spring loading once you get it into the fuel tank opening. I've done a total of three on GM "W' body cars. I realize it is hard to get upper body leverage on it due to the location but it beats dropping the fuel tank like on other make cars and later model GM cars. Also, coat the rubber o-ring seal with silicone lube or a light coat of clean motor oil.