Transmission

Hello, Wondering if any one in this site has replaced the tcc solinod on a 4l60e. The replacement i have does not have the full wiring harness it has to be spliced in to the existing harness I don't think i will have any trouble with this repair, But if any one has any tips or if there is something i should be looking out for I welcome any advice. Thanks

What year?
Why are you replacing it?
Strange you have to splice it in.
Is it a GM OEM solenoid or aftermarket one?

Thanks for your response MT 2500, The truck is a 97, the reason Iam replacing this solnoid is there is a bad vibration in the drive train i have had the problem diagnoised and the tcc is bad. The replacement part is after market and the wiring harnes is about 4 inches long, the part came with 2 connectors to be spliced in to the orginal harnes. The ground wire has the proper connector, I have already replaced the 2/3 solnoid and it was also after marker but it came with the proper connector.

Make sure that is the problem first thing.
What codes or how was it determined it was bad solenoid?
I would go the GM OEM solenoid if it is actually bad..

Thanks again MT 2500, I'am not sure what codes where displayed as i was not present while the truck was being looked at. This is what i was told and given a price to have the repair done, Maybe I should get another opinion just hate to throw money away. I thought it may have been a problem with the abs system as the vibration only starts after the truck has been driven for a few miles and the systems are at operating temp.

You are welcome.
But as said I would make sure the solenoid is the problem.
Just a vibration or jerking can be caused by many thing even engine miss.
I can not see the solenoid causing a vibration.
Good luck

Thanks for your response MT 2500, The truck is a 97, the reason Iam replacing this solnoid is there is a bad vibration in the drive train i have had the problem diagnoised and the tcc is bad. The replacement part is after market and the wiring harnes is about 4 inches long, the part came with 2 connectors to be spliced in to the orginal harnes. The ground wire has the proper connector, I have already replaced the 2/3 solnoid and it was also after marker but it came with the proper connector.

vibration would should be in the U joints , drive shafts, possible rear diff bearings or other issues.

the TCC causing vibs is ODD..

Tcc solenoid is pwm on these so they wear out the solenoids faster. I have seen this before and a new solenoid work for the vibration. Also if it is bad enough sometimes the valve body needs machined and an oversized valve put in. Im not a trans guy but my buddy is and I ran into this once in the shop.

Once again Thank you, I have replaced the u joints,axle bearings and seals,front and rear brakes as well as brake lines, and distributor cap,rotor, spark plugs and wires.I did these repairs in trying to elliminate my problem as they are the obvious place for vibrations. I would have never thought a solinoid could create this kind of problem put thats what i'am told so I will give it a try. I will post my results so if there are others with the same issue maybe it will help.Have a great day.

Once again Thank you, I have replaced the u joints,axle bearings and seals,front and rear brakes as well as brake lines, and distributor cap,rotor, spark plugs and wires.I did these repairs in trying to elliminate my problem as they are the obvious place for vibrations. I would have never thought a solinoid could create this kind of problem put thats what i'am told so I will give it a try. I will post my results so if there are others with the same issue maybe it will help.Have a great day.



what speed do you get this vibration ? this 4wd ?
you should have mentioned your list of componets replaced in the first post.

The solenoid swap is easy once the pan is off. The connectors are usually spliced, and the better kits have a mechanical connection similar to a split bolt which is very positive and makes an oil-proof connection. Don't even consider using a compression connector like a Sta-Kon or anything like wire nuts - They will fail. There is a chance that your replacement will have a connector if the OEM solenoid does, and there will be no need to splice anything. Either way it isn't difficult nor time consuming.

The TCC solenoid seats into the valve body (in the very front corner) and the solenoid bleeds pressure off the end of the TCC apply valve spool. The entire PWM valve is contained within the assembly. There is seldom bore wear in the valve body, but pulling the spool with a magnet for inspection wouldn't hurt to be sure. You only need to remove one hairpin clip and the solenoid can be removed from its bore.

Before performing the replacement, however, it would be good to perform some diagnosis. There are several methods to disable the TCC to see if that is causing the shudder. It can be manually controlled by a bi-directional scanner. You can disconnect the brown wire from the "U" terminal on the transmission electrical connector. You can also lightly touch the brake pedal to actuate the brake pedal switch which should force the PCM to unlock the TCC. If the truck has a tachometer you should see the engine RPM increase as a result.

The lockup solenoid is inside the pan. The solenoid is in front of the valve body, there are two bolts attaching it to the case and the business end (Snout) of the solenoid goes up into the pump assy. You usually have to splice a new solenoid in place. Yes, a faulty lockup solenoid can cause shuddering. I honestly think your problem though is in the valve body in the TCC regulator valve assy. This is quite common.


transman