95 Blazer, cranks won't start, no dash lights
simpulman
09-30-2010, 06:59 PM
Hi everyone. I have a 1995 Blazer, 6-cylinder, 4.3L, rear wheel drive, at about 150k miles. Smooth running, no knocks no pings, then one morning I start it up, no problem, I roll down the hill and there is a loud electronic ping, all the dash lights go out, the motor dies and won't start back. Cranks great but no start. I leave it in my neighbor's yard for a few days and on a whim try to crank. It starts great and still runs smooth as can be but there are no dash lights. I allow it to run for maybe 10 minutes and go up the hill. By the time I get to the house, 200 yards later, the motor quits again and won't start back. Headlights, radio, wipers, everything works but still no dash lights. I've checked all fuses and none are blown. Can anyone give me some ideas on what has happened and what to do to fix this? I appreciate everyone's help.
MT-2500
10-01-2010, 05:39 AM
We need more details on electrical ping?
Pop crackle or fuse blowing or electrical power jumping or relay clicking?
Is this the electronic digital dash?
On fuses and fuse box.
Always check for 12 volts on both sides of fuses and 12 volt power to all key on fuses stuff.
On no start does it have spark to plugs?
Does fuel pump run and have proper fuel pressure.
Pop crackle or fuse blowing or electrical power jumping or relay clicking?
Is this the electronic digital dash?
On fuses and fuse box.
Always check for 12 volts on both sides of fuses and 12 volt power to all key on fuses stuff.
On no start does it have spark to plugs?
Does fuel pump run and have proper fuel pressure.
simpulman
10-13-2010, 11:30 AM
Sorry took so long to get back. It wasn't an electrical ping but an 'electronic' ping. Similar to the ping reminding you to lock your seatbelt, or your headlights are on, but a lot louder. It is not an electronic digital dash, just light bulbs and analog needles. Plugs are getting spark but have not checked fuel pump. Someone here suggested a problem in the ignition but not sure what. Thanks again for any help.
MT-2500
10-13-2010, 05:09 PM
Does fuel pump come on key on 2 second prime up?
Check that fuel pressure and post back pressure readings.
Check that fuel pressure and post back pressure readings.
bluebuick91
10-13-2010, 05:47 PM
Does fuel pump come on key on 2 second prime up?
Check that fuel pressure and post back pressure readings.
MT-2500, I have a 96 4x4 4.3 vin w that im having the same issue with, my priming pressure when i turn the key on shoots to 60-62 then immediately drops to 55 and holds there...It doesn't prime every time I turn the key. i just installed a brand new ignition switch and crank sensor. It has brand new cap wires rotor and battery, module was tested at napa, several times to get it hot and still passed, coil is not new, however it ran for 3 miles then died, so want to assume the coil is ok
so are my readings normal? or am i having fuel pump issues? can a bad throttle position sensor cause this? what about the cam sensor?
Check that fuel pressure and post back pressure readings.
MT-2500, I have a 96 4x4 4.3 vin w that im having the same issue with, my priming pressure when i turn the key on shoots to 60-62 then immediately drops to 55 and holds there...It doesn't prime every time I turn the key. i just installed a brand new ignition switch and crank sensor. It has brand new cap wires rotor and battery, module was tested at napa, several times to get it hot and still passed, coil is not new, however it ran for 3 miles then died, so want to assume the coil is ok
so are my readings normal? or am i having fuel pump issues? can a bad throttle position sensor cause this? what about the cam sensor?
MT-2500
10-14-2010, 05:48 AM
To save confusion with your and posters problem it is best to start a new thread/post.
On your problem the fuel pressure reading is to low.
You need to test it when it quits for lose of spark to plugs or low or no fuel pressure.
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to windshiel or outside mirrow and watch the fuel pressure when driving for upto 30 minutes and when it quits.
And when it quits also check for good hot spark to more than one spark plug.
And You need to run the full pump pressure test.
On the 96 it should prime up to 64-65 lbs and hold with only a slow leak down.
It needs 64-65 lbs for injectors to squirt out a good cold start.
They may run all day on lower pressure but not good as they should.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.
Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
If the pump needs replaced always go a delphi fuel pump.
Even if it has to be orded at 25$ more cost.
Which most place can get the delphi pump over night.
Most parts place only stock the junk Airtex pumps.
Airtex and aftermarket pumps have a very high fail rate.
But get on there case and make the order a good Delphi OEM type pump.
On your problem the fuel pressure reading is to low.
You need to test it when it quits for lose of spark to plugs or low or no fuel pressure.
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to windshiel or outside mirrow and watch the fuel pressure when driving for upto 30 minutes and when it quits.
And when it quits also check for good hot spark to more than one spark plug.
And You need to run the full pump pressure test.
On the 96 it should prime up to 64-65 lbs and hold with only a slow leak down.
It needs 64-65 lbs for injectors to squirt out a good cold start.
They may run all day on lower pressure but not good as they should.
The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.
Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
If the pump needs replaced always go a delphi fuel pump.
Even if it has to be orded at 25$ more cost.
Which most place can get the delphi pump over night.
Most parts place only stock the junk Airtex pumps.
Airtex and aftermarket pumps have a very high fail rate.
But get on there case and make the order a good Delphi OEM type pump.
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