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Door Actuator


bsmith95610
09-27-2010, 04:26 PM
If an actuator goes out in a power door can you just change out the actual actuator or do you also have to pull all of the other pieces in the door as well as the actual lock? Any help would be much appreciated.

davesclassicauto
03-25-2011, 09:35 AM
Don't know what vehicle you have but a lot of actuators are a separate part and can be replaced.
Your local auto parts store or dealer will be able to help you with the correct part.

brcidd
03-25-2011, 10:35 AM
I've actually let the OEM actuator in place and added a $10 aftermarket actuator- so it is your choice- buy new, buy used, buy aftermarket...but I would test first to be sure you just don't have a broken wire in the door boot- if it is the driver's side, I highly suspect the broken wire issue....If actuator is sluggish, then it is time for a new actuator.

bsmith95610
03-25-2011, 10:47 AM
It is for a 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab. I tried asking my local autoparts store about it but the guy behind the counter just said all cars are different and some you have to replace all of the actuators in the doors then on others you just need to replace the one that's broken. Should I probably just call my local Toyota Dealer and get the part from them?

bsmith95610
03-25-2011, 10:49 AM
brcidd - How would I tell if it's a broken wire? Where is the door boot? I took the panel off of my door and I didn't see a broken wire but if I knew where to look I might be able to see it.

brcidd
03-25-2011, 10:53 AM
Sure, that will work, but most people avoid stealerships..they like to save money, I guarantee you, Rockauto.com will be 1/2 (or less) the stealership price, or Ebay, or any other on-line site of your choice.

Again, why not be sure of your problem? It may be mechanical, or electrical, how do you know it is the actuator? Please share with us your diagnostic findings so you are sure not to waste your time and money.

It may even be the switch...pull out your DVM (digital volt-ohm meter) and see if you get 12v at actuator when switch is locked, then see if voltage reverses when switch is unlocked...

If no voltage...actuator is not the issue... which door is it?

bsmith95610
03-25-2011, 11:11 AM
I'm actually not sure that it is the actuator I just had a friend of mine look at it with me who is more mechanical than me and that's what he thought it was.

The problem is when you hit lock or unlock on the remote it locks/unlocks all of the doors except for the drivers door. If you hit lock/unlock inside the vehicle it works on all of the doors except for the drivers door. Please let me know if you have any ideas of what the problem could be along with how to test the problem.

Thanks for your help.

bsmith95610
03-25-2011, 11:14 AM
If the power windows are working on the drivers side door would that mean I'm getting power to the power door switch? My window is working good.

brcidd
03-25-2011, 11:17 AM
Again, put a tester (DVM) or even a test light, across the two terminals on the driver's door actuator plug- then trigger the lock/unlock switch. Does light light up? If so, you need an actuator.

Most faulty actuators at least try to move lock mechanism when they fail...have you studied yours? Does it move ever so slightly when activated?

nsxvtec
03-27-2011, 02:45 PM
I see a lot of these. From what you have said, it is the driver's side DLA unit. The motors in the unit tend to rust up and seize from moisture. Replace the unit you should be OK. Most Japanese vehicles have the same or similar small 12V motor in the actuator .

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