Passenger window Goes up, Not down... Which switch ?
pjw73nh
09-25-2010, 11:17 AM
Greetings,
I've seen quite a few threads here that talk about the two switches and how they interact. I am hoping that I can be led to the correct switch to replace.
My problem is complicated further as it is intermittent. (it figures).
No issue with drivers window. Works fine all the time.
Passenger window VERY intermittently will not go down from either switch.
I have a voltage gauge that indicated the realtime voltage of the car's electrical system.
When the issue is present (window won't go down) which as I say is VERY intermittent, if I press either switch in the DOWN position, there is no voltage drop indicated on the meter. If I press the UP switch in either switch, the voltage drops by a couple volts and loads down the electrical system (the window is stuck in the up position.).
So I am assuming my problem is in the DOWN circuit.
By following the current paths in this diagram http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/driver-side-window-switches.html I STILL can't isolate it to one side or the other.
Is my only recourse to either buy both switches (one at a time), or wait until the problem becomes less intermittent and more solid, then troubleshoot with a meter?
I have seen a few posts here with issues like these, but only a couple seem to report back with which switch they replaced.
Are my odds better for the driver's side in this case?
Thanks
I've seen quite a few threads here that talk about the two switches and how they interact. I am hoping that I can be led to the correct switch to replace.
My problem is complicated further as it is intermittent. (it figures).
No issue with drivers window. Works fine all the time.
Passenger window VERY intermittently will not go down from either switch.
I have a voltage gauge that indicated the realtime voltage of the car's electrical system.
When the issue is present (window won't go down) which as I say is VERY intermittent, if I press either switch in the DOWN position, there is no voltage drop indicated on the meter. If I press the UP switch in either switch, the voltage drops by a couple volts and loads down the electrical system (the window is stuck in the up position.).
So I am assuming my problem is in the DOWN circuit.
By following the current paths in this diagram http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/driver-side-window-switches.html I STILL can't isolate it to one side or the other.
Is my only recourse to either buy both switches (one at a time), or wait until the problem becomes less intermittent and more solid, then troubleshoot with a meter?
I have seen a few posts here with issues like these, but only a couple seem to report back with which switch they replaced.
Are my odds better for the driver's side in this case?
Thanks
old_master
09-25-2010, 11:53 AM
When the system is at rest, (none of the switches are activated), all of the circuits to all of the window motors are grounded at G-302 through the master switch. When either switch is activated to operate a window, ground is removed and B+ is applied to one circuit of one motor. No matter which switch you use, ground is always supplied through the master switch.
If you have trouble with a window not operating correctly in one direction only, from both swicthes, the problem is in the master switch. Any other scenario of windows not operating correctly could be caused by a switch, a fault in the wiring, or the motor itself. If a window motor always works in one direction, it indicates that the motor and wiring are OK.
If you have trouble with a window not operating correctly in one direction only, from both swicthes, the problem is in the master switch. Any other scenario of windows not operating correctly could be caused by a switch, a fault in the wiring, or the motor itself. If a window motor always works in one direction, it indicates that the motor and wiring are OK.
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