malibu 2003 passlock?

my 2003 malibu has a black key but no noticeable chip in it. is this located in the top under the black cover? or does this malibu not have a passlock system? i had a plain key made and works fine. I do have the anti theft light that lights up on cranking but them goes out. i was just wondering about the passlock, car has stalled when stopped at a stop light a few times but not regularly also both times we were using the black GM key?

2003 malibu
3100 engine

Your stalling has nothing to do with passlock, try getting a tune up.

sprayed contact cleaner in switch problem seems gone for now it has been 5 days and fire very quickly everytime i hit it..

I agree with slls. The Passlock system has nothing to do with stalling. The keys have no chips in them. The passlock measures the amount of resistance in the key and then tells the car whether to start or not.

As for your stalling problem. I would check your fuel injectors for a clog or debris and replace the fuel filter.

I was told that a key with a Plus mark stamped in it at the base of the black cover is the key that has a chip in it. My 2002 Malibu has refused to start a couple of times and this was after a second new start switch was installed after a period of 6 years. A GM dealer told me they need to do a deep scan because there is a loss of communication between the switch and the on board computer. It is not a loss of communication between the key and the switch. Just wanted to let you know about the key.
hotpipes

does the security blink on the dash when this happens?

Cheers
Stripe

To be honest with you I did not notice that the security light was flashing. I don't think it was. I just got off the phone with the GM Assistance center and they would not do a thing for me because each time I had it towed in for repair I didn't take it to a GM dealer. I told them not every one can afford the charges that they ask for.
hotpipes

I asked as this happened to me 2 times so far.
The starter spins but no start.
The theft light blinks with the key in on position.

To cure this turn off car then insert key and turn to "on position" leave it there until the red light quits blinking.

It takes about ten minutes for the cpu to relearn they key.

For me it started easy after the wait.

Cheers
Stripe

A little misinformation here....

PassLock uses a blank key.....the key does not have a resistance, the PassLock module does.....there is no "communication" between the key and switch.....not sure what you mean by "switch"....your key goes inside a lock cylinder.....the lock cylinder rotates inside the PassLock module....the PassLock module is inserted in the ignition switch....not sure exactly what you had replaced.....

PassKey I and II, uses a black resistor, which can be seen externally on the key.....

PassKey III has a transponder built into the head of the key.......

The 10 minute reset procedure, is not a cure for the problem, it is only a temporary fix.....

Kind of crazy to expect help from GM Customer Service, when a GM shop did not do the work.....do you expect them to fix work done at another shop?

They need to do a deep scan? That's a new play on words....Fact is, they don't know what they are up against, because they don't know what really was previously done to the car.......They will be starting from scratch....

Tech11
Do you have any idea as to what should be replaced in my car? I was mislead in thinking that there was a communication between the Key and the lock cylinder. Do you think a new power control module would solve my problem of losing the signal between the Lock cylinder and PCM? If I bought a PCM the dealer would not give me the code needed to make the car start. They would probably want 5 or 6 hundred dollars to plug in a $130.00 part. No wonder people are going to Japanese and German cars.

I found out why my 02 Malibu wouldn't start some times. After having the ignition key and ignition lock replaced twice I found out that my key did not have a chip in it and had nothing to do with it not starting. I found by replacing the casing or housing to the ignition starter lock assembly witch has all the wires attached to it, my car has never missed starting once. It took me about an hour. I purchased the part on Amazon for $45.00 dollars and found the help to replace it on YouTube.
hotpipes

I am not trying to be rude here.....but do you understand what the meaning of a warranty is? Whether it's a car, it's a tv, a refrigerator, etc., they all come with warranties.....

I have had washers that have lasted an average of 5 years or more with no problems.....so I bought one, did not buy an extended warranty, only lasted 14 months....12 month warranty.....manufacturer said out of warranty....

Same with tv's, cars, etc.

Don't care if you have a Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan, etc., once the warranty is over, the manufacturer is not going to fix it for free....especially if it wasn't repaired by one of it's own shops......

If you had a problem, and a GM shop repaired this twice, Customer Assistance, from my experience, would have bent over backwards for you....

But back to your problem......no, a PCM is not the usual fix for this.....and if you bought a PCM, it would have to be specifically programmed for your car....

The first step, try the reset procedure...it may allow your vehicle to start.....but like I said, this is usually just a temporary fix and will happen again......

Then I would have it scanned for "B", or body codes, especially if it's B2958 or B2960......

You have to have confidence in who is doing your work....ask people you know, who own GM cars, where they have their work done.....You do not have to go to a Chevy dealer....ANY GM dealer can do the job(Buick, Cadillac, GMC, etc)....when you talk to the Service Manager, you ask who is his best diagnostic tech, and demand that he works on your vehicle.....

For me to guess what is wrong, could be a multitude of things.....the parts that were replaced, were probably aftermarket parts.....when it comes to electronics, I always recommend OEM parts(original equipment from the manufacturer).....it could be something as simple as a wiring connection.....or possibly an aftermarket alarm/remote was installed.....but, you need to go to someone who can diagnose problems, and knows what they are doing......

I agree with you about the warranty. But with all the complaints about the pass lock system on the Chevys that have gone bad for a number of model years you would think GM would step up and take care of there costumers by having a recall. There customers shouldn't even have to call for Customer assistance. Instead GM rakes in millions of dollars by having the customer pay for repairs to this poorly designed system that go's bad after 3 or 4 years of use. Isn't it funny how it doesn't go bad during the warranty period. And after buying the extended warranty and bringing your car in for a pass lock repair they then show you the fine print where it tells them that it only covers the drive train and engine and with that said You can really trust the dealer now. I know Buyer be wear. It appears there pass lock system is a guaranteed income for years to come. Who can you trust? The people that I talk to about repair garages are unsure as to where I should go they also have had poor experiences After getting my car stared a number of times by a nationally known repair center and Paying out many dollar's They suggest I go see a Gm dealer where I would be charged another hundred for a scan and who knows what the repair would cost.

Hot pipes - You didn't read the warranty - big or small print - before you purchased the extended warranty? Why? I don't envy you your problem, but it seems to be every one else's fault that you're sinking money into the car. When | read all the stuff you wrote I wonder to myself if you were working with them or just giving them hell and suing them?

Johnny R
The only one I blame is GM for not stepping up and recalling hundreds of models over a ten or fifteen year period. Honda had a similar problem and did a recall as soon as they knew they had a problem. I agree that GM will take care of all in warranty repairs but what happens to the poor guy that has trouble after his car is out of warranty and or he didn't take it to a GM dealer for repair because there repair costs are very intimidating.

And by the way I would never by there extended warranty because I did read the fine print.

I say it is not my fault or anybody else's that GM has refused to do a recall or build a car that doesn't leave thousands of guys like me stuck with hundreds of dollars in repairs. All you need to do is read some of the threads on this forum and watch some of what people are having to do on Youtube about gasket leaks and pass lock problems just to stay afloat and keep there cars running. You can bet GM has made a lot of angry people.

I am happy that you are happy with your new car just make sure you go to a GM authorized dealer for your repairs. Because if you ever have problem during the warranty period or after it and haven't gone to them for your repairs GM Customer assistance dose not want to here about.

About head gasket leaks ask GM how that all worked out.
hotpipes

When I re-read my last post it sounded snarky. I didn't mean to be snarky. On my '99 the dealer replaced the head gasket well after the warranty expiry period. Dealer replaced the front rotors twice during the warranty period because I did not want them machined. Brakes were always a problem and I went with after-market rotors after warranty period was over. The best trouble-free years for the car were from 2007 - 2011, after I had done many things like replace broken front coil springs, heater motor, heater fan speed resistor, water pump, battery and alternator. I got 300,000 km ( 188,000 miles) out of it. And yes, I really like my 2011 LT. It has not been in the shop except for oil and filter.

Johnny R
I had a GM dealer make me a new key and so far the car has been starting for two weeks now I'm crossing my fingers. I will let you know how it works out.
hotpipes

Key has nothing to do with the PassLock system....it will not fix an intermittant no start.....it is a blank key......only thing it might help with is turning the lock cylinder, if you were having problems rotating the key.....but more often than not, it's the tumblers that create that problem......

Did Dealer tell you a new key would fix an intermittant no start?