Phase Two complete

well i got my new wheel mounted and put on today... and i also installed my braided stainless lines... it has been a productive day! pics and a write up on the lines will follow... well here are some picks but i'll write up a "how to" for them later.. seeing as how i could find none.... it was relatively easy to do though...
the wet stuff is mainly WD40, and then some brake fluid...

Tools/materials needed,
Brake line set
1 quart (one big en or two little) bottles of your choice in brake fluid
10, 12, 14 MM socket and rachet (3/8 will work fine 1/2 is nice too)
8, 10 MM wrench
Torque wrench is nice to have but not completly neccessary
jack and jack stands
Basin tub
Pliers, and maybe a screw driver...
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First thing first... if you have the capability to jack the car completly off the ground it makes life easier. So jack it up and support it well with jack stands! Pull off all four wheels and set them aside.

Ensure that the M/C is full with Fluid and check it as you complete each corner.

Spray every thing liberally with a lubricant such as PB Blaster or WD40

Loosen up the joint fittings and retighten them just enough to keep fluid from leaking out (this is where the 1/2 rachet comes in handy for the 14 mm on the caliper) be careful to not snap the upper 10 mm one though!
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Once you have the fittings broken free, move on to removing the remaining brackets.
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With the hose free, you now place a drip pan below where you are working, DO NOT TOUCH PAINT brake fluid eats paint, with that in place I then completly removed the bottom fitting. You know the one that attaches to the caliper. Move it out of the way, I hung mine up on the upper control arm.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3db34b3127cce88792adbc9c90000001610

Moving on to the upper joint, its easiest if the clamp is left in place, just use your 10 mm wrench and unscrew the the threaded nut. Once it is free grab the pliers and grab on to the little tab of the clamp

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3db34b3127cce887915ba892f0000001610

Once out the line will just pull thourgh.

To install follow the directions but in a reverse manor, i.e. put the line up through the hole and insert clamp...

also be sure to put a banjo washer on both sides of the bottem joint

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and it is supposed to be torqued between 12-24 psi, I took mine to about 20 for good measure... but I think you could get away with out a torque wrech, be careful though!

Now for the rear, there is much much less work... but its in a tighter space.

these are all the tool needed!

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3db34b3127cce88792b5f89d50000001610

All you do is loosen each end, pull the pin swap lines, tighten and reinstall the pins! Its a lil easier said than done do to space though. and the lack of the pins on one side of my car, grrrrrrrr stupid people!

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the final step is to bleed the brakes, make sure you do this properly according to your manual and do not drop the pedal to the floor, it may result in a master cylinder failure!

whewwwwwww I think that covers every thing. I rate this job as a 5 out 10 on difficulty, mainly due to bleeding of the brakes.

nice write up man, they look good, know imma have to do that on my whip.

how does your pedal feel? more responsive?

thanks,

and yeah the pedal feels soooo much better now, its a lot firmer doesn't drop like it used to, and finally the harder i push the harder it clamps yay! i like it! well worth the green...

how much did it cost and where did u get it from ? i think i should get some now

after all these little fixes...what is still left? you excited over all the work?

I should do stainless lines on mine someday...i only have about 10 things i "should" do to mine.....but not enough money to do them all right now....hhehehehehe


gunnmen01

the kit i got was 120 plus shipping from tire rack... i've saw them on the groupbuycenter.com for a lil bit cheaper... but i was already ordering a tire so i figured what the hell and got them too... and i got a few more annoyances left... like the hood, i need to replace it, i recently got this tick from hell that seems to have no orgin, all i know is is only happens on throttle (me thinks its an injector) and i need to figure out why in the hell i'm running so rich... is there any friggen way to lean our cars out? and no i'm not getting any codes, and the timing is dead on... other than that... well the frame is still bent and needs straightend... but hey ya know can only fix so much at a time...