98 Blazer no Ignition Fire will not start

Let me start by saying that my wife complained of her A/C not working in afternoons when she got off from work. After checking system I found that it needed a fan clutch to fix problem. Also, radiator tank was cracked, engine oil cooler lines were leaking, throttle plate needed cleaning and radiator hoses were bad. I purchased all parts new from my local Carquest store. I spent the next 2 afternoons replacing bad parts and when I got ready to start the engine it would not crank. There is no spark in the ignition system. I have checked the fuel pressure and it is 62 lbs. and holds strong after turning off key. I have a 97 model pickup and I removed the coil, module and crank sensor from the 98 Blazer and installed on the 97 pickup and it ran fine, so I know that these parts are good. For some reason the fuel, mph, rpm, and water gauges in the dash are buried like everything is overfull and over revved. The volt gauge works perfectly. Battery is fairly new and is fully charged. Checked all fuses and are fine. This vehicle ran perfect when I shut it off to replace parts and now it will not start??:banghead:

When I got ready to start the engine it would not crank.

If it would not crank than how do you know you don't have spark. I think what you meant to say is it cranks over fine but will not start. No crank implies that there is a problem with the starter or battery. I know its picky but terminology can make a big difference on how your problem is understood.

Since you tried the parts in another vehicle and they worked I would first check to make sure those components are getting power and ground.

Thanks for clearing up the terminology issue. You were right, the engine turns over fine but will not start. Your response is very vague and not of any use as I have read the Chilton manual and it only addresses faulty parts and how to check them, not wiring. Some of the pins do have power, some are grounded, which ones are supposed to be hot and which are supposed to be grounded? What would be the voltage values that I would be looking for and why are my gauges screwed up?

disconnect the negtive post , double check all the connecters that you unpluged, its importen to disconnect the negtive when doing any work on a engine when you have to unplug stuff

Thanks for the intelligent input. I will try that when the afternoon thunder bumper leaves. I have hooked the battery up and have been unplugging stuff to find out why my gauges are not working properly...I think this may have something to do with my problem? Will post soon.

You mentioned you tried the parts in another vehicle and they worked. Since you have another vehicle there you can check to see what is powered up and when it is powered up and what and when things are grounded and compare that to the the vehicle that doesn't start.

Things like is the coil powered up with the key on and cranking. Do you get a flash on the ground side of the coil with a test light while the vehicle is cranking. Your chilton should have a basic wiring diagram that you should be able to figure out what is what.

The only problem with checking the other vehicle is that on the coil plug the 97 model has a 3 pin connector and the 98 model has a 2 pin connector. I will still try to check that out. The other problem is that the donor vehicle is mine and my wife has to drive it around while her rig is parked.:shakehead. Gauges are still buried on the Blazer.:screwy:. I will be talking to the mechanic at the Carquest store where I bought my parts from the other day, hopefully he may know something about my problem. Will post soon.

I'm having the same issue as you are right now on my '97.
Post back what you find and i'll do the same.

Thank you.

I wound up taking the Blazer to the mechanic at Carquest. It wound up being a blown ECM fuse, located in the fuse box under the hood. I had checked this fuse at least 4 times by pulling it and looking at it, as I had done with every fuse in that box and the one inside truck. The mechanic at Carquest checked fuses with a test light on both sides of the contact of each fuse, and that is how he found it. It did not appear to be blown visually, but it was. As for the gauges, he pounded his fist on the dash and gauges went back to normal. I drove it home and every thing worked fine. That stupid mistake probably cost me 150 bucks!:shakehead

ECM1 fuse supplies power to the coil and injectors along with crank, pcm, and a couple other things. Looks like my first post may have been a little more intelligent than you thought. :wink:

ECM1 fuse supplies power to the coil and injectors along with crank, pcm, and a couple other things. Looks like my first post may have been a little more intelligent than you thought. :wink:
If you had put your first response in the context of your last post, it may have helped me. I was hoping that someone in this forum had the same problem that I had at some point in their career and would have said "hey that happened to me one time and here is what I tried". I have been working and tinkering with cars, trucks and hot rods for 25 years, and I have people ask me questions all the time. Sometimes we all hit the wall as I did on this job. I bet it will not happen again and I bet that if someone ask me about a similar problem down the road, I will tell them straight up to check fuses with a test light.