auto shutdown relay?

Just swapped 4.0 engines into my 93 sport from a 92 Larado. Went to start. Heard relay clicking. No start. Thought it was fuel pump first. Bled fuel line to get fuel to rail. Still clicking, thought it was fuel pump relay, swapped, still clicking, pulled fuel pump relay out, turn on key, still clicking. I think it's my auto shutdown relay.

What would cause this relay to click? Haven't checked for spark yet, have to wait for wife to get home first, but I have no idea what caused this relay to click.

Also forgot to tighten my block to firewall ground bolt on head, so had to fabricate a ground from front of head to firewall using 3 electrical wires, but should be fine for ground connection.

Any thoughts?

update, I have no relay in the auto shutdown. the clicking relay is coming from the starter relay. Starter works fine though. Still no start.

update, I have no relay in the auto shutdown. the clicking relay is coming from the starter relay. Starter works fine though. Still no start.
Check for a lose battery terminal and check voltage on battery.

When you say "no start", does the starter turn the engine over?

Did you use the starter that you had on your vehicle before the swap, or the one from the donor vehicle? If it's from the donor, it might have sat for a long time and be frozen up.

Starter is cranking the engine. I don't have spark at plugs. Do have spark at coil. When my engine was up-side-down there was oil on my distributor, so I looked inside and there is oil there. Thought maybe my cam position sensor got oily so swapped in the dist that I drove into my garage with. Still no spark. Did put on new cap and rotor. Next move is to reinstall old cap and rotor. Also for sure not 180 degrees off.

Not sure where to go after that. Can swap ecu, crank position sensor. Would like to think I could figure it out without swapping everything, but then again that's the beauty of having a parts car. Is there a logical order to check the spark out?

thanks

as far as the auto shut down--I got. Just have to look at the chart right side up.

Starter is cranking the engine. I don't have spark at plugs. Do have spark at coil. When my engine was up-side-down there was oil on my distributor, so I looked inside and there is oil there. Thought maybe my cam position sensor got oily so swapped in the dist that I drove into my garage with. Still no spark. Did put on new cap and rotor. Next move is to reinstall old cap and rotor. Also for sure not 180 degrees off.

Not sure where to go after that. Can swap ecu, crank position sensor. Would like to think I could figure it out without swapping everything, but then again that's the beauty of having a parts car. Is there a logical order to check the spark out?

thanks
If the coil sparks and it doesn't get to plugs. Ohm the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. If it reads approximately 1/2 scale clean the distributor cap. Next check if the rotor is turning. Clean inside the distributor cap.
Replace if you can't find the problem.

Don't forget you might need new plug wires also.

You said the engine was upside down. Oil may have gotten into the cylinders and fouled the plugs. So I'd replace the wires and plugs as well, and check for spark before putting in the last plug.

coil wires ohms good, had new cap and rotor but will try old one just because it ran with those. had friend with new cap that was a little off in size and took 2 days to figure it out. didn't check to see if rotor is turning though. good idea. will let you know

took off head after engine was upside down. new head gasket. nice and clean inside. Installed new plugs already. didn't use new plug wires but have 2 used sets that ran just fine before starting project. plan on testing crank sensor or just swapping it out today. Maybe damaged it during the swap?

This is a simple electrical trace. You have spark at the coil, so make sure the spark is getting to the distributor, and that the rotor is turning when the starter cranks. After that it's just connectivity to the plugs, through the cap and wires. Having the wrong size cap on there for 2 days is probably a big part of the issue.

my friend had the wrong cap on her car after a rebuild. she just mentioned it as a possible problem for me. I think my new cap and rotor are fine but I will put on the old ones just to make sure.

I still need to make sure the rotor is turning, but don't the sensors and ecu control the spark timing inside the distributor? or do they control spark timing at the coil? If I have spark at the coil does that mean that my crank position sensor is working fine?

just checked my rotor. it's rotating just fine, but wife heading off to work so I have to watch kid. will swap old cap tonight

Cool, so rotor's turning.

I'd install the cap and rotor, and the new plugs. Start with 1 plug out so you can test spark there. If no spark, then it's time to trace back to the distributor cap and see if there's spark where the plug wires hook up.

Just letting those following this that I'll start a new thread as problems have changed. No no spark anywhere. So today I bought and replaced crank position sensor, plug wires, and coil. Still no spark so put back the original distributor. Nothing. Tomorrow will try to borrow analogue volt meter to test cam position sensor and swap out computers (ecu, pmc, whatever it's called). running out of options here. shotgun maybe.

finally solved. 3 ungrounded ground wires, passenger side, near firewall. Only took me a month!

finally solved. 3 ungrounded ground wires, passenger side, near firewall. Only took me a month!

That sounds awfully familiar.....a brother of mine had the same issue, sorry I didn't think of it.



Ground wires: attached.
Electrical gremlins: removed. :bigthumb:

No need to say your sorry fredjacksonsan, I really appreciate your input, along with everyone elses. I can only blame myself, my poor lighting, and my failing eye-sight. I've done enough engine swaps that I don't really feel the need to mark a lot of my wires any more, but now I realize that I may not need to label them all, but a small piece of reflective tape on every wire end would have caught this right away. So for now on.... that's my SOP. Sucks getting old. The good news, I've finally got me a 4x4 again and can get back to some of my favorite places. Aloha and Mahalo

Check the wires going into the bottom of the relay center for the ASD.

That wire that you talked about to ground the block to the firewall. My s10 one day would turn over and start for about 1 second and die, I noticed that the security light came on the dash. Long story short my ground was dirty and was not grounding good when it cant ground it cuts the gas and starter because it though someone was stealing the car. Dunno if it the same on that old of an engine but very fast easy thing and worth a try. connect that wire to the batt ground and see what happens

oh NM i see that you already got it now. I never went past page one