2002 T&C 3.3l intermittent stall-occasional no start

It started out stalling every once in awhile and would immediately restart and run fine. It just got worse and finally today I had it where it would not restart for about 10 minutes. When it stalls the radio and a/c blower all stay on like there is no batt issues. It's got 121000 miles on it. I did alot of reading today and seems like it could be alot of things. Hoping someone can help.

If by would not "restart" you mean it would turn over but the engine wouldn't run then I would suspect the cam or crank sensor. You've probably read why so I won't get into it. If not the sensors then maybe a fuel pump. Are you handy with a meter?

If by would not "restart" you mean it would turn over but the engine wouldn't run then I would suspect the cam or crank sensor. You've probably read why so I won't get into it. If not the sensors then maybe a fuel pump. Are you handy with a meter?

Yes it cranks and wont start. It just did this once yesterday, after 10 min it started. But more than anything it stalls and restarts at various times and places. I read about the flexplate cracks, is that still going on in the 2002 models? The cam sensor I read wont put up a code. I got a p0455 at the part house. I am handy with a meter! I don't think the fuel filter has been changed but I figured that would plug up and just not start.

Flexplate? With age any flexplate can crack. I would put this one on the shelf for now. Not etched in stone but you'll usually see a P1391 code if the plate is cracked. You probably have the 41TE tranny. You can open the inspection plate and rotate the flexplate to inspect. Some remove the starter and look in that way.

Since 97 the cam sensor signal is only used at startup and thereafter as a comparator for the crank sensor. It can throw a code but usually only if it looses power. At least that's what I've read.

You probably know the P0455 isn't your stalling issue. It means there's a gross leak in the EVAP system. Critical if you have to get a smog test, otherwise no. Here's a video pointing out the usual leak points. Says 445 on the intro but it's a typo. We'd all love to have their smoke machine but this at least shows you where to look: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSn0ljUS6kI

Fuel filter? Wouldn't hurt to change it but probably not the problem. I've read pros saying they've never seen a filter cause a problem. These filters have plenty of filtering capacity and are designed to last the life of the van. If someone dumped sand in the tank then yes, you need a new filter.

OK, now back to your stalling issues. I'm thinking engine management electrics or fuel delivery. Next time it stalls hard, disconnect the coil connector and using your meter check for coil driver output from the PCM. If there's no pulse from any of the three drivers it's likely the PCM is not seeing the cam or crank sensor signal and has cut power to the coil, fuel injectors, and O2 sensor, all via the ASD relay. Heres how:


Actually a test light works better for this. Connect the ground to the negative battery post. Now crank the engine and touch the lead to contacts 1, 3 then 4. DO NOT touch contact 2 (brwn/white wire). You could fry the PCM. At each you should see the light blink. If you don't see it blink on all three, the above applies. Check the harness and cam and crank sensor connections. You could check continuity to the PCM. If all looks good change either sensor or I would lean towards both.

If you've proven the coil driver output is good try this. Again, when it stalls hard, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail. Crank the engine and look for 55 psi. Not there? Check for power at the pump connector. If it's there as you crank it, the pump is toast. Can't get a pressure gauge (Autozone ??), press the plunger on the test port. Fuel should spray out and not dribble. Be carefull. A trick from the old book, smack the fuel tank with a mallet. If the pump comes alive it may or may not stay alive. You can always just listen for the pump to come on. It should come on momentarily when you turn the key to "on". Hearing the pump is good news but no guarantee the pump is pumping.

Flexplate? With age any flexplate can crack. I would put this one on the shelf for now. Not etched in stone but you'll usually see a P1391 code if the plate is cracked. You probably have the 41TE tranny. You can open the inspection plate and rotate the flexplate to inspect. Some remove the starter and look in that way.

Since 97 the cam sensor signal is only used at startup and thereafter as a comparator for the crank sensor. It can throw a code but usually only if it looses power. At least that's what I've read.

You probably know the P0455 isn't your stalling issue. It means there's a gross leak in the EVAP system. Critical if you have to get a smog test, otherwise no. Here's a video pointing out the usual leak points. Says 445 on the intro but it's a typo. We'd all love to have their smoke machine but this at least shows you where to look: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSn0ljUS6kI

Fuel filter? Wouldn't hurt to change it but probably not the problem. I've read pros saying they've never seen a filter cause a problem. These filters have plenty of filtering capacity and are designed to last the life of the van. If someone dumped sand in the tank then yes, you need a new filter.

OK, now back to your stalling issues. I'm thinking engine management electrics or fuel delivery. Next time it stalls hard, disconnect the coil connector and using your meter check for coil driver output from the PCM. If there's no pulse from any of the three drivers it's likely the PCM is not seeing the cam or crank sensor signal and has cut power to the coil, fuel injectors, and O2 sensor, all via the ASD relay. Heres how:


Actually a test light works better for this. Connect the ground to the negative battery post. Now crank the engine and touch the lead to contacts 1, 3 then 4. DO NOT touch contact 2 (brwn/white wire). You could fry the PCM. At each you should see the light blink. If you don't see it blink on all three, the above applies. Check the harness and cam and crank sensor connections. You could check continuity to the PCM. If all looks good change either sensor or I would lean towards both.

If you've proven the coil driver output is good try this. Again, when it stalls hard, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail. Crank the engine and look for 55 psi. Not there? Check for power at the pump connector. If it's there as you crank it, the pump is toast. Can't get a pressure gauge (Autozone ??), press the plunger on the test port. Fuel should spray out and not dribble. Be carefull. A trick from the old book, smack the fuel tank with a mallet. If the pump comes alive it may or may not stay alive. You can always just listen for the pump to come on. It should come on momentarily when you turn the key to "on". Hearing the pump is good news but no guarantee the pump is pumping.

Where is the crankshaft sensor and how hard to replace it? All signs show that it is what is wrong. Thanks!

It's on the top slightly aft side of the transmission bell housing down low in the area of the drivers side of the engine. Probably have to remove the air ducts. Look for the 3 wire connector. One bolt secures the sensor. Inspect the wire harness and connection for chaffing, cuts, corrosion etc before changing it. Just need a socket set or monkey wrenches for the sensor and a common screw driver for the air ducts. Disconnect the negative battery cable first. I've read far too many times about guys doing electrical maintenance and shorting something to ground making a minor job major. Register with Autozone and view the diagrams and procedures. It will keep you from guessing. I've replaced a couple of these on older models some years ago. Don't recall it being a major deal. Takes 30 minutes if you take a beer break.

I take it the coil drivers were dead?